Log in
Search
Latest topics
» Project Cox .049 r/c & Citabrian Championby MauricioB Today at 5:40 pm
» Cox P-51 Bendix Trophy Racer
by Wayne Brown Today at 5:39 pm
» thread measurements
by MauricioB Today at 5:33 pm
» Cox Thompson Trophy Winner
by Jerry Today at 5:20 pm
» COX 010 TeeDee with RC carb, courtesy sosam 117
by rdw777 Today at 3:08 pm
» "Me and Crazy Horse...Our Anniversary"
by fit90 Today at 2:52 pm
» a cheap sport muffler
by robot797 Today at 1:34 pm
» OS 10FSR Carb Needed
by Cougar 429 Today at 1:14 pm
» AP .061 Hornet
by F4D Phantom II Yesterday at 10:01 pm
» dozens of old .049 TeeDee's, Medallions and a few others
by rsv1cox Yesterday at 7:46 pm
» Re-manufactured Enya .06-II for Boats13
by Boats13 Yesterday at 7:32 pm
» TD 09 Ducted Fan
by getback Yesterday at 8:41 am
RR1 engines
Page 1 of 1
Re: RR1 engines
The reason I ask is because our member Mudhen sent me his beautiful newly rebuilt RR1, with a muffler, so I can give it some flying time as part of its break-in. He mentioned it got so hot during some bench tests that he couldn't touch the fuel tank after a run, and he thought the fuel was boiling. And he found it was getting so hot only when the fuel had any less than 20% oil. I am not sure, but I suspect he may have been using 17% castor Glowplugboy. I don't want to return a RR1 shaped piece of slag to him, and I wondered if the muffler was the reason for the excessive heat. It will probably run cooler in the air, but I am going to bench run it first to get the hang of the complicated starting procedure.Mark Boesen wrote:No. not even. The first muffler was the '66 Quiet Zone .049, Thimble-Drome did made a muffler type speed control for the Space Bug but i don't know how quiet it got and it was an add on.RknRusty wrote:Were any RR1 engines with a muffler, ever sold by Cox?
And then this next note from Mudhen:
- Open the needle 3 1/2.
- Fill the tank
- Open the muffler, put 3 or 4 drops into the chamber. Then flip the prop to work in the prime.
- Then put 10 -12 drops into the chamber, but don't work it in.
- Close the muffler and fire it up.
- Once the engine is running, open the muffler, then tune to peak rpm.
- Try to limit the amount of time the engine runs with the muffler closed, especially at high rpm.
I have spiked a fresh new bottle of GPB with enough castor to bring it up to 20% oil. It runs good in my engines, and the extra oil is evident in the exhaust goo.If the engine begins to surge, or is difficult to needle, that means the cylinder/piston has become contaminated. It does not need to be disassembled. Just remove the glowhead. Then soak a cotton swab with alcohol and clean the cylinder wall. Also clean the piston. This can be done by soaking a toothbrush in rubbing alcohol and cleaning it through the exhaust ports. These steps will restore performance. I hope you like the engine.
I'm just concerned because this weekend I'm going to mount it and run it in the shop. Any advice would be appreciated.
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 67
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: RR1 engines
I bet it will run quite a bit cooler once it is in the air. A cylinder muffler like that one is like a huge blanket for heat. I would get the needle to where the motor just breaks into a slightly clean 2 stroke sound with a bit of rich waver to the tone, then launch it. As the tank flys out (emptys), I bet it will pick up rpms and clean up.
Check your balance before flight. I am willing to bet that a RR1 with a muffler is a bit heavier than what you are use to flying. That way Mud gets his motor back and you get your plane back,,in one piece as they say.
Stuff you already know, but it never hurts to see it again.
Cant wait for the vid Rusty.
Check your balance before flight. I am willing to bet that a RR1 with a muffler is a bit heavier than what you are use to flying. That way Mud gets his motor back and you get your plane back,,in one piece as they say.
Stuff you already know, but it never hurts to see it again.
Cant wait for the vid Rusty.
PV Pilot- High Tech Balsa Basher
- Posts : 1854
Join date : 2011-08-11
Age : 57
Location : The ragged end of the Universe.
Re: RR1 engines
The rotating valve is a problematic area, they are aluminium against aluminium I believe. If the crank-case and tank gets warm I bet it comes from the rotating valve.
I only have a modern version and there it is teflon against aluminium.
Use plenty of oil (you can use 25% for running in) and leave the muffler off until you get to know the engine and it has been run in, after that you can test with different mufflers and props.
I only have a modern version and there it is teflon against aluminium.
Use plenty of oil (you can use 25% for running in) and leave the muffler off until you get to know the engine and it has been run in, after that you can test with different mufflers and props.
Surfer_kris- Diamond Member
- Posts : 1890
Join date : 2010-11-20
Location : Sweden
minne
...............mine is the later gold version that someone tried to convert to a stunter by replacing the tank vent tubes and replacing with pop rivets,then installing the stunt backplate......................cant decide to sel it or return it to original style parts.....I may have paid too much and havnt fired it up yet even,just a good cleaning and look see so far
Jaspur_x- Banned
- Posts : 710
Join date : 2011-04-22
Age : 51
Location : Shanksville,Pa, yes that flight 93 place
Similar topics
» Ever have one of those engines?
» Cox International Engines Flying on "The Board of Engines"
» need a bidder
» A lot of Cox engines
» Some of my Cox engines
» Cox International Engines Flying on "The Board of Engines"
» need a bidder
» A lot of Cox engines
» Some of my Cox engines
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum