Metal polish

Shines a BEE like a new dime.

Well Dan I got some of that Mothers Mag polish and I would have to say it's the best I have used so far. Easy to use and not too exspensive.

Joe: I told you so. I like you wipe it on and wipe it off you can see crud come off. Shines great almost like crome.

I've been using Mothers Billet Polish for a couple years, and
have had great results. This stuff is a paste. Is the mag polish
a liquid or cream? May be the same product in different forms.
Liquid or cream would seem less awkward to work with than the paste.
Bob

It like car wax in texture.

So can I polish the crank case section of the Cox.15 with this product? How about using the polisk wheel on the dremel with this paste?

I don't see a problem with polishing a crank as long as you wipe it all off when done. I do use a Dremel polishing felt wheel from one of those polishing kits.

ZACATTACK wrote: So can I polish the crank case section of the Cox.15 with this product? How about using the polisk wheel on the dremel with this paste?

Just don't polish the crankcase bearing races. You'll ruin the crankshaft fit if you do.

I wish I could post Pics in here to describe what surfaces I'm taliking about. Every time I go into the Reply section the site prompts me to download a picture viewer etc. etc. Having trouble uploading pics but I will figure it out!! Im not talking about internal components for polishing.

ZACATTACK wrote:I wish I could post Pics in here to describe what surfaces I'm taliking about. Every time I go into the Reply section the site prompts me to download a picture viewer etc. etc. Having trouble uploading pics but I will figure it out!! Im not talking about internal components for polishing.

A popup blocker should stop that prompt. Then you can choose when you see it. What browser are you using? I don't get any popups except for Private messages.

In the Come to Papa thread there were a few questions on what is a good metal polish. Since this is a wordy reply and I didn't want to hi-jack the thread I thought I’d just add to an earlier one on the subject
After over 40 years of polishing stuff particularly aluminium this is what I have found.
As long as it’s not going to weaken the integrity of the metal I remove any deep scratches with careful filing then depending on the depth of marks to remove start with about grade 270 wet and dry. I don’t go any lower to start with as the scratch marks from the coarser paper are deep and just add to the job. I progress through grades 400 to 600. At this stage any scratches you can still see with the naked eye won’t get removed from here on so back to the start until you’re happy with the finish.



Now on to grades 1200 and finally 1500. These are only taking out the scratches left by the previous grade paper and anything deeper will still be still there when you finish so if you are fussy you know what you have to do.  

I have a tray of well worn grades which are used now and if all has gone well the outline of your face should start to appear in the metal.



Now the polishing. There are several metal polishes on the market and I have tried quite a few but in my opinion one far outshines the others (pun intended). It has been around for years and used to be called Solvol Autosol now just Autosol and is the best bar none. Like all polishes it is a mild abrasive so I wouldn’t use it on bearing surfaces or engine internals where close tolerances are required or anodised surfaces, there is a Autosol Anodised Metal Polish out but I have yet to try it. For anodised surfaces after cleaning I give a light buff with silicone spray.


There are several metal polishes on the market but Autosol is the king in my experience.

For cloth I use what we call cheese cloth or mutton cloth for once upon a time both those items came wrapped in it. It is extremely soft and ideal for the job. Other materials especially synthetics will actually scratch your finish. As the applying cloth starts to get really grubby bin it, make the polishing rag your applying rag and use a new piece for polishing. The accumulation of grit in the rag can start to leave scratches otherwise.


Shrink wrap may have replaced it for food but you can’t beat it for polishing.

After about three applications of polish three things should start to become obvious. Any marks you missed are sticking out like the proverbial dogs ....s, your reflection now has a brilliantly clear (but smudgy) and lustrous metallic look to it and the blood is seeping through the bandages on your fingers but what a finish. You’re also starting to look like a printers apprentice.  


Worn paper is great for fine finish work Use caution with buffing mops or wheels and polishing soap as you can’t get into tight corners and curves and they have a tendency to round off edges and dig hollows if used excessively.


These cases are about ¾‘s of the way through the process. All done by hand to preserve the outline and edges of the castings.


I like to leave the finish original where possible but if you want to make them shine huh. No sanding apart from repairs to heads, just a light polish

What have others found or prefer.

Lots of good info there Dave. That Sporty case
is going to be blinding.
I just got this in the mail this week. Never tried
it before. We'll see.
Bob

Good stuff Dave ? says Bob too!!exactly what info I was looking fo ,cleaned , tested , shiny is always good.... never done any polishing on engines, trial and error can cost u $$ that I am sure of so the more friendly help you can get the better Thanks, Getback