Scratchbuilt Queen Bee

You could shave a bit off the leading edge so the nv can turn freely and then solder a rod to it. You could actually have the rod go through the leading edge. Just use a small rod so you do not loose too much structure.

Rolla

You could also cut a small notch in the wing, and attach some tubing to the NV to reach above the wing. Pushing a screw down into the tubing will stiffen it up.

It will be something along those lines. The size of this thing really lends itself to a .010.

What to do...........

I decided to move the wing back just a tad. It may mess with the balance a little but it can't be all that much (famous last words) so we shall see how it balances out.

Just wrapping things up on this one. Just need to add the bellcrank, gear and the wing struts. It should be a fun little guy.

Ron, my plans were not very clear as how to install the bellcrank. Minnesota modeler Ray was just starting to make the kits for the Queen Bee when I just so happened to have mine 90% complete. As I stated before, the plans show the wire strut and even Ray concluded that although it works it can be problematic. I added an additional rib and sandwiched my ply struts. Not necessary but I felt it was strong. I don't feel that you did any harm in moving that wing back. Ray offered some wisdom that worked quite well for me. He suggested using a large bb-q skewer for the pivot and attachment of the bellcrank. I cut a piece about 5/8" long and used small pieces of brass tubing as spacers and used small washers above and below the bellcrank and just glued the assembly to the side of the fuse.

This little plane surprised me. My son out flies me in every aspect. Generally when we have a new build regardless of size, I always suggest he take it easy and I await the report when landed. In the case of the Queen Bee, I had to laugh as it wasn't but the 2nd lap he goes into a overhead 8 and pulls out inverted. I've experienced this as well that you build a plane and it just feels right during initial flight. I just thought it was really cool and my engine has sat on my bench for nearly 37 years only to run like the first day it was released from the box. Of course this didn't happen without a rebuild but it certainly was rewarding. Keep in mind that your going to be turning a bit quicker with this one. Ken

Thanks Ken!

Good tips and great advice. Concerning the leadouts......did you use em? Plans don't show any so I was just wondering if you attached the line directly to the bellcrank.

Rolla (Godsey 3.0) said he made up a set of leadouts for his. But not sure if I am going to do the same.

Ron

Ron, I infact did make wire leadouts. I believe I used the .030 wire (1/32"). Since I had a ply strut, I just glued a small piece of rectangular ply across the strut with two small eyelets. If memory serves me correctly, didn't the plans use the strut with a wire loop within it for the leadout guide? I provided two holes for each leadout to exit at. I've done single hole leadout guides extensively on combat ships and never had any problems in regards to the one guided hole. Ken

Ron, I also wanted to ask you if you had the correct bellcrank as pictured. I have a box of them somewhere here. I found one on the bench although the hole for the pushrod has been drilled out. Let me know if you are in need of one as I could look for the box I had. Ken

shawn cook wrote: Ron, I also wanted to ask you if you had the correct bellcrank as pictured. I have a box of them somewhere here. I found one on the bench although the hole for the pushrod has been drilled out. Let me know if you are in need of one as I could look for the box I had. Ken

Hey Ken, thanks I just ordered a Perfect bellcrank from Brodak and it should arrive today. Rolla is sending me one as well. If neither work I'll give you a hollar.

Ron

Can a moderator please move this thread to the models and modeling section? I have no idea why I started this in the off topic section to begin with!

Thanks,

Ron