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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Oct 14, 2014 11:37 am

Trainer. Although if it's capable I'll have no problem flying competition with it.

Ron
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Post  roddie Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:59 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Trainer. Although if it's capable I'll have no problem flying competition with it.

Ron

That's a great mind-set! You're already mentally set on "wringing-it-out"!!!!!!!
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Oct 14, 2014 7:39 pm

Always!!!!

I don't get emotionally attached to these things. I want to have a couple planes in reserve.

My crash in Wichita, helped me to realize that you need more than one contest plane so when crap happens you are not out of the game.

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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:16 pm

I am finally working on this thing again. Final sanded the fuse and purchased wood to do the block tips. Also recut the stab/elevator to 20'

I'll have pics up soon.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Apr 22, 2015 6:12 pm

Hi Ron
I'm glad to see you back on the build. So far it's a really nice looking plane. As you mentioned back in October, having a backup contest plane relieves some of the pressure. I'm really thin here, but have the best two that I have ever flown with the Oriental and the Ukey. And i know my club would give me a plane if I needed one. I hope you can get some good shop time to finish this one up. Any contests on your calendar?
Rusty

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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Apr 22, 2015 6:49 pm

So, here it is currently. I cut and installed the nacelle this afternoon. I've also resized the vertical stab.

I purposely made the horizontal stab/elevator larger, looks really big at the moment. Once I get the tips in place maybe it will look more the part.

4-40 threaded inserts.... Those little buggers really ticked me off. I drilled the holes to 11/64 like the package recommended and still managed to snap off the tabs while screwing them into the hardwood. Had to back them out using pliers so I'll have to pick up a new set. Not sure how to avoid that again. I even tried working them back and forth, still snapped off the tabs.

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Post  RknRusty Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:22 pm

These 4-40 inserts are the ones i use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Dubro-Threaded-Insert-4-40-4-391-NIB-/331333340920?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d25018ef8
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They don't have any screwdriver tabs, you just run a bolt into it with a pair of lock nuts and crank it in with a good quality allen key. It takes a lot of force to crank them into the rock maple beams. I slightly over-drill or countersink the ply bearer so it doesn't crack while I'm installing the insert. On the Osprey I screwed the inserts all the way in flush with the face of the beam. But to do that I had to sleeve the bolt with a short piece of brass tube for the lock nuts to jam against so I could sink the inserts past the hole through the doubler. Once the glue is almost cured, a quick snap will release the bolt, or use heat if necessary. The bolt keeps epoxy out of the threads too.
Rusty

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Post  pkrankow Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:26 am

RknRusty wrote:These 4-40 inserts are the ones i use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Dubro-Threaded-Insert-4-40-4-391-NIB-/331333340920?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d25018ef8
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They don't have any screwdriver tabs, you just run a bolt into it with a pair of lock nuts and crank it in with a good quality allen key. It takes a lot of force to crank them into the rock maple beams. I slightly over-drill or countersink the ply bearer so it doesn't crack while I'm installing the insert. On the Osprey I screwed the inserts all the way in flush with the face of the beam. But to do that I had to sleeve the bolt with a short piece of brass tube for the lock nuts to jam against so I could sink the inserts past the hole through the doubler. Once the glue is almost cured, a quick snap will release the bolt, or use heat if necessary. The bolt keeps epoxy out of the threads too.
Rusty

The ones with "screwdriver tabs" are not actually for a screwdriver. The tab is to provide relief so the chip formed by cutting into the wood has a place to go. These should all be installed using double nuts on a proper bolt or machine screw.
Phil
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:19 am

Thanks Phil,

Wish I had this info a day ago. Thing is the slot is cut into the top of the plug and not the bottom. So it has no effect on anything when they are beiing screwed into the bearers.

The bottom of the plug is tapered so I don't think I was installing them upside down.
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Post  Ken Cook Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:01 pm

I have used these in the past but I can't say I'm a big fan of them. In order to install them  you really are sacrificing a large hole through a 3/8" x 1/2" beam. Not only can this produce vibration issues but it can also lead to the mounts breaking in case of a mishap. Mishaps don't need to be accidental control inputs. A plane like the Twister can get real floaty when the engine quits especially if your on the windy side. A nose over like that can break your engine off if the mounts give way due to removing so much material. Just my opinion. Ken

Ron a #16 drill is probably a better bet due to it being slightly larger by about .005" over a 11/64" drill bit.
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Post  pkrankow Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:21 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Thanks Phil,

Wish I had this info a day ago. Thing is the slot is cut into the top of the plug and not the bottom. So it has no effect on anything when they are beiing screwed into the bearers.

The bottom of the plug is tapered so I don't think I was installing them upside down.

Maybe there are enough different brands that we are both right, but with different brands?  I don't know on this one.

Phil
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Post  pkrankow Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:24 pm

Ken Cook wrote:I have used these in the past but I can't say I'm a big fan of them. In order to install them  you really are sacrificing a large hole through a 3/8" x 1/2" beam. Not only can this produce vibration issues but it can also lead to the mounts breaking in case of a mishap. Mishaps don't need to be accidental control inputs. A plane like the Twister can get real floaty when the engine quits especially if your on the windy side. A nose over like that can break your engine off if the mounts give way due to removing so much material. Just my opinion. Ken

Ron a #16 drill is probably a better bet due to it being slightly larger by about .005" over a 11/64" drill bit.

In proper maple beams I agree with you, white oak too. The stuff ARF's are made from? Not so much. Prevention of wood crushing with an insert is important.

Phil
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:50 pm

Phil,

These are the ones I bought, they are made by great planes. I pulled up the bio for them and it reads as follows:

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PICTURED IS A PACKAGE OF 4, 4-40 THREADED BRASS INSERTS THAT ARE DESIGNED FOR 3/8" THICK OR GREATER WOOD OR FIBERFILLED MATERIAL SUCH AS PRESSBOARD OR FIBERFILLED PLASTIC, YOU DRILL A 1/4" HOLE WHERE YOU WISH TO USE A 4-40 MACHINE BOLT AND THEN APPLY SOME EPOXY TO THE INSERT AND THREAD IT INTO YOUR MATERIAL TILL IT IS FLUSH WITH THE SURFACE. THE INSERT IS MADE WITH A SCREWDRIVER SLOT FOR EASE OF INSTALLATION. EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONS ARE INCLUDED IN THE PACKAGE.


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Post  pkrankow Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:11 pm

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Post  pkrankow Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:16 pm

I'm not saying you are wrong, just that the products we bought have different instructions.

Phil
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:19 pm

Well, looking at that I could very well be wrong. I'll definitely be using jam nuts next go around.

Thanks Phil, I appreciate it.
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Post  TDbandit Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:40 pm

+1 on the allen screw with jam nut on those inserts, those can be pesky.
If you use an allen wrench, try a T-handle they are usually better quality and fit better and don't twist as much and make it loads easier to thread those inserts in with. And BTW nice twister build, makes me want to get started on mine! (Bandit)
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:15 pm

Thanks Bandit,

I tried hard to make it not look like a Twister, I am excited to get working on it again.
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:36 pm

Block tips!!!

This is my first attempt at this, I do like the way they look on other folks planes so I decided to try my hand at them this go around.

Basically I stacked 1/2" balsa sheet and glued/clamped them together with Ambroid. After that I traced the rib outline and cut that out of the block using the scroll saw. Once that was done I traced the tip shape on the top side and again cut that out using the scroll saw.

This left me with a rough shaped block which I slowly rounded out using the belt sander. I moved onto 100 grit and hand sanded the rough final shape followed by 150 grit to smooth.

I am still not near done with them, have lots of final sanding to do to blend it into the wing. The Dremel makes quick work of hollowing them out and they are becoming very light. It doesn't take long as what you see in the pics below is about 2hrs of work, started last night and sanded to shape tonight.

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Post  getback Fri May 01, 2015 8:43 am

Ron The Tip Blocks look good , I like the look of them myself nice and solid , Did you cut the rudder down or does it just seem small Huh... Eric
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri May 01, 2015 8:57 am

Good eye Eric,

Yes, I went to sand the original one that I made for it and it exploded in the disc sander. I whipped another one up shortly afterwards.

It does look small, but smaller was what I was going for. Once I get everything mocked up I will see if it looks out of place. If it does then I will create another.

Ron



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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Aug 18, 2017 1:51 am

Good Heavens! Over 2yrs since I have done anything with this. Kind of embarrassing  Embarassed  Luckily I have been working mid shifts which equates to 9hrs of time alone so I got wise and brought the Twister into work. Got some funny looks from the FAA guys as I was carrying it in. You would think they had never seen a plane before Laughing

Anyway, I've covered the fuse and wing in Cub Yellow Ultracote. Planning on doing Navy Blue accents as well. Tomorrow it's time to set the wing and horiz stab and Epoxy it in place.

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Post  akjgardner Fri Aug 18, 2017 5:03 pm

Hey Ron that looks really good. Can't wait to see it all trimmed out
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Post  RknRusty Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:50 pm

Yeah, I like your wingtips. Did you carve those from a block? The tips in my Cardinal kit look like they'll be laminated planks partially shaped and then carved as much as the builder dares.


Nevermind, I just re-read all about it. That's a stout looking wing too.
Rusty

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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:37 pm

Almost done, still stressing about the vert stab, The original that I dreamed up with doesn't look right. I'll come up with something else.

The engine I settled on is a Super Tigre G-21.40. It's larger in bolt spacing so that's an issue, not by much, maybe 1/16" or less. Clamps could work.

Another couple pics to show progress.

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