Micro 12VDC Generator with a Cox .049 Sure Start Diesel Engine

Got the 8 cm O rings.

Found a 25W, 50 Ohm Potentiometer ( Rheostat ) on AliExpress for $10.

Found a 5mm to 8mm shaft coupling on AliExpress.

Also found around 5mm thick plywood from which around 20cm starter wheel can be cut.

More Problems

Attemped to start the engine with an 8 inch propeller. No dynamo attached.

The crankcase pump did not want to load fuel at previously used settings.

Thus, I was able to start the engine at the Fuel Needle Valve 9 turns open, almost full.

I also tried to blow into the tank pipe to create more pressure.

Once started, the engine worked OK and have some controllability.

An important consideration was to decrease the compression immediately after start for the engine to sustain.

Another important observation, as before, was to use spring starts with only one or two compressions through. These pump more fuel than the quick compressions with full spring engagements.

Why was the engine unable to pump fuel in even with closed Air Valve ( Throttle )?

Here is what I think and I am open for oppinions :

1. The big propeller makes slow movements and the engine seem to like quick but only one or two compressions through movements to be able to suck fuel.

2. Clogged fuel intake path by the higher density medical Castor Oil from the previous run when some fuel stayed in the tank.

3. Leaking crankcase gasket ( unlikely because the engine runs OK once started but burns fuel at a high rate because of the open Fuel Needle Valve and low compression ).

4. Broken or damaged Reed Valve ( unlikely for the same reason ).

5. Unscrewed or untightened cylinder or head. ( Unlikely for the same reason ).

6. Broken or loose fuel lines.

Here are the symptoms :

The engine cannot suck fuel at settings at which the engine was able to do so before. When fuel was artificially put in the crankcase, the engine started at various settings and run until there ws fuel in the crankcase and then stopped. Fuel was delivered into the crankcase either by fully closing the Air Valve ( not always possible unlike before ) or by blowing into the tank like playing a saxophone. The only way to maintain the engine work was at the extreme settings as explained. When working, the engine consumed an immense amount of fuel.

A way to clean the fuel lines is by putting pure Ether on the fuel intake through the fully unscrewed Fuel Needle valve or by putting pure Ether in the taknk and pumping into the crankcase.

I must furst ensure I am able to start the engine reliably under a stable algorithm and then I will try to start with the dynamo.

In case of an unsuccessful attempt, I may replace the propeller to see whether I can start with the well known one.

open the engine
and check for a double reed
and also clean your spraybar

i had mine clogged one time
and my engine had a double reed
that is why i needed to open my needle 8 times on my firsth tests
and that is why i never used the engine for somthing

but now i have corrected it and it is one of my best engines

robot797 wrote:open the engine
and check for a double reed
and also clean your spraybar

i had mine clogged one time
and my engine had a double reed
that is why i needed to open my needle 8 times on my firsth tests
and that is why i never used the engine for somthing

but now i have corrected it and it is one of my best engines

I have checked the Reed Valve and is not double.

I do not know what a spraybar is.

the part were the needle is located
(were the fuel is mixed with the air)

just open the needle untill it is 90% open
add a clean tube to the fuel nipple
and blow in it carfully

This may be far fetched but although I have used the Cox standard mixture, I have now used Ether which was taken from the can by punching the can's bottom. This allowed for the propellants to escape and brought purer Ether.

When the Ether is stronger, this will allow for an easier start yet lower power. Lower power means lower RPM at given settings which are even lower because of the large and heavy propeller. Thus, the lower the RPM the lower the fuel suction.

Sounds very far fetched but this is the only difference I can think of between now and before.

robot797 wrote:the part were the needle is located
(were the fuel is mixed with the air)

just open the needle untill it is 90% open
add a clean tube to the fuel nipple
and blow in it carfully

This is what I may do after I clean with Ether. I would take the Fuel Needle Valve off and put Ether from the top to dusolve Castor Oil. Pure Ether is a very good disolver at room temperature.

I have successfully started the engine with the 8 Inch Cox Texaco Propeller. I have completed two starts : with a spring and with an electric drill. I am very happy I have succeeded to start the engine with a power drill as this would be a benefit while testing with different springs.

I have used a fuel mixture with reduced amount of Ether : 25% Ether, 42% Kerosene, 21% Castor Oil, 10% Cetane Booster. I have used a spring start : First, a few spring starts with one and two compression through to load fuel into the crank case ( helped with blowing into the tank on occasion to bring fuel faster ). Then, full spring starts to start the engine. The Fuel Needle Valve was 4 to 8 turns open at different trials. The Air Valve was fully open. The compression was slightly reduced to start and then quickly reduced even more to sustain.

Then I tried to reduce the Ether even more and attempted starts with the dynamo and 2 ( engine ) to 1 ( dynamo pulley ratio ). Unsuccessful because of the reduced amount of Ether, I think. I also think increasing the amount of Ether would help the troubled start. I may attempt 42% Ether, 26% Kerosene, 22 % Castor Oil and 10% Cetane Booster. I plan to even use more Ether. I have broken all springs I have had and remodeled them to use again and broke the remodeled ones, so I do not have more spring starts and would get some from Cox soon.

Then, I have enriched the fuel with Ether and used an electric drill. I have tried an electric drill start before unsuccessfully. I am very happy I have succeeded now. The Fuel Needle Valve was 3 turns open, the air valve was half closed and the compression was very low : between one fourth and one eighth open. However, these settings have no meaning as I do not know what the mixture was. Because the mixture was so much Ether enriched and the electric drill was used to spin the engine, I have been able to start the engine at these reduced settings, mainly at very low compression. This may not work very well with a spring start thus other settings have to be used for the Fuel Needle Valve and the Air Valve ( Throttle ) to be able to start the engine and sustain at higher compression which higher compression would be needed to start with a spring which goes through a few compressions only unlike the power drill which goes through many.

An interesting thing is the algorithm which I have used : I rotate the engine and listen to the successful compressions while I tune the compression. Also, I select the other settings for the engine to start with lower RPM as compared to the drill. Thus, when I take the drill out and the engine drops RPM driven initially by the inertia of the propeller, the engine would be able to start and slowly increase the RPM.

I also correct the settings so the engine can start at lower than the maximal compression but near, not lower than one quarter turn unscrewed compression screw.

WAITING FOR THE ENGINE TO SETTLE IS IMPERATIVE. Then the engine allows more control.

The electric drill bit which I have manufactured cannot be used with a belt. I will try to manufacture a bracket which I will position on the propeller screw. In case I am successful, I will attempt runs with the dynamo before I receive the springs.

Steve, sounds like you're getting the hang of working with this little engine. When you get finished with your thesis, maybe you'll build a plane and learn to fly. Control line is cheap and fun. And already fully developed and tested lol.
Rusty

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:I have successfully started the engine with the 8 Inch Cox Texaco Propeller. I have completed two starts : with a spring and with an electric drill. I am very happy I have succeeded to start the engine with a power drill as this would be a benefit while testing with different springs.

I have used a fuel mixture with reduced amount of Ether : 25% Ether, 42% Kerosene, 21% Castor Oil, 10% Cetane Booster. I have used a spring start : First, a few spring starts with one and two compression through to load fuel into the crank case ( helped with blowing into the tank on occasion to bring fuel faster ). Then, full spring starts to start the engine. The Fuel Needle Valve was 4 to 8 turns open at different trials. The Air Valve was fully open. The compression was slightly reduced to start and then quickly reduced even more to sustain.

Then I tried to reduce the Ether even more and attempted starts with the dynamo and 2 ( engine ) to 1 ( dynamo pulley ratio ). Unsuccessful because of the reduced amount of Ether, I think. I also think increasing the amount of Ether would help the troubled start. I may attempt 42% Ether, 26% Kerosene, 22 % Castor Oil and 10% Cetane Booster. I plan to even use more Ether. I have broken all springs I have had and remodeled them to use again and broke the remodeled ones, so I do not have more spring starts and would get some from Cox soon.

Then, I have enriched the fuel with Ether and used an electric drill. I have tried an electric drill start before unsuccessfully. I am very happy I have succeeded now. The Fuel Needle Valve was 3 turns open, the air valve was half closed and the compression was very low : between one fourth and one eighth open. However, these settings have no meaning as I do not know what the mixture was. Because the mixture was so much Ether enriched and the electric drill was used to spin the engine, I have been able to start the engine at these reduced settings, mainly at very low compression. This may not work very well with a spring start thus other settings have to be used for the Fuel Needle Valve and the Air Valve ( Throttle ) to be able to start the engine and sustain at higher compression which higher compression would be needed to start with a spring which goes through a few compressions only unlike the power drill which goes through many.

An interesting thing is the algorithm which I have used : I rotate the engine and listen to the successful compressions while I tune the compression. Also, I select the other settings for the engine to start with lower RPM as compared to the drill. Thus, when I take the drill out and the engine drops RPM driven initially by the inertia of the propeller, the engine would be able to start and slowly increase the RPM.

I also correct the settings so the engine can start at lower than the maximal compression but near, not lower than one quarter turn unscrewed compression screw.

WAITING FOR THE ENGINE TO SETTLE IS IMPERATIVE. Then the engine allows more control.

The electric drill bit which I have manufactured cannot be used with a belt. I will try to manufacture a bracket which I will position on the propeller screw. In case I am successful, I will attempt runs with the dynamo before I receive the springs.

The fuel intake was cleaned with Ether before start. However, the fact the engine cannot suck fuel with the big and heavy, slowly sprung by the starter spring propeller is true. A few one or two compression spring starts pump fuel, though. The lower the compression during pumping, the better.

I HAVE INSTALLED THE NEW 8CM O RING BELT. PERFECT! NOT SO TIGHT AND DEFINITELY NOT LOOSE. ROTATES THE DYNAMO FROM THE ENGINE PERFECTLY!

RknRusty wrote:Steve, sounds like you're getting the hang of working with this little engine. When you get finished with your thesis, maybe you'll build a plane and learn to fly. Control line is cheap and fun. And already fully developed and tested lol.
Rusty

Thanks. I am definitely getting more and more with this engine. Hope to be able to start with 2 to 1 and, maybe, will not continue with a higher pulley ratio, although, unless I am able to spin the engine at very high RPM, I think I would be able to get 8V over a 10 Ohm resistor only and not the desired 12, which can be gotten at higher resistor values. On occasion, I am happy, on occasion I am getting sick and tired, so, I guess, for now, this will be as far as I can go.

A better dynamo, more powerful, would be an advantage. For now, I think I have proven the concept and would like to prove slightly more.

Robot797 has proven the concept even more as well as the CoxGen project.

Thus, we have 3 Cox generators so far which, combined with a few more non Cox generators on the web prove the concept and the possibility. Thus, whoever wants, can take what has been done and continue.

As far as flying is concerned, the only think I have been passionate of is driving a real car and rally driving on different surfaces. Not interested in any track driving nor drag racing. Rally only. Along with this, I have been interested in real motorbike riding but not in motorbike racing, just normal street and road driving with a preference of light and narrow bikes such as street legal off roads ( KTM ), European and Japanese bikes because they can make faster and sharper turns then the North American ones. However, I have been interested in long riding of a North American bike : standard Harley.

Other than this : no. So, no model planes and no model cars. Sorry. Nothing wrong with these but I am not into them. In other words : in case one was to offer a car, a bike, a private jet, a private rocket, etcetera : I would only take the car. Obviously, I may take the most expensive one to resell and get a car with the money and have some more.

The only thing I am interested with flying is the so called Delta Plane. A delta plane is a chair with a tiny EIC engine on the back which rotates a propeller and has a triangular cloth on top which serves the purpose of the wings. These are immensely popular in Europe but, looks like, disallowed in North America or, just, people are not interested because I have seen many such in Europe and not even one in North America. These are the motorbikes of flying. They fly excellently and are perfectly safe. They fly low and are affected by STRONG winds thus must only be flown at a normal weather.

The Rocket Man ( I forgot the name ) puts rocket engines on a suit, thus rockets can be put on a delta plane yet the EIC engine and the propeller are just as good and do not require too much fuel and burn standard gasoline.

Hollywood uses these to equip the US special forces which is not true in the reality. They are only used for recreational purposes. And Hollywood. : )

The freewheeling pulley which moves up ( to slowly engage pulley one ) or down ( to disengage pulley 1 ) must be attached to the system in such a way as to be able to only go up and down and not in any other direction thus to stay parallel to the other pulleys and perfectly lined up in the same plate. This can be achieved by a long screw which can be turned freely to only move the nut where the freewheeling clutch pulley is attached to up or down AND  a rail which would support the pulley to disallow movement in any other direction. A better way may be to use TWO SCREWS to which two nuts connected to each other are moved up and down. The pulley shaft is connected to the connection of the two nuts. Like a fork. This way, the two screws can be turned one after the other in tiny intervals to move the system up and down while the pulley shaft cannot be moved in any other direction except up or down.

When the clutch pulley is down, the clutch is disengaged. When moved slowly up, the belt will start to gently touch Pulley 1 and engage in rotation. When moved more up, the clutch will fully engage.

All pulleys are lined up at the same plate.

The two clutch pulleys on the right hand side are freewheeling and with real bearings. They can be installed around either of the pulleys. They can move on the rails back and forward to slowly engage or disengage the pulley not attached to the belt.

The rails can either go inside, i. e., towards each other to prevent the clutch pulley from being attached to the belt when the clutch is fully engaged or stay parallel to each other ( or even go away from each other ) to keep the belt stretched.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

RknRusty wrote:Steve, sounds like you're getting the hang of working with this little engine. When you get finished with your thesis, maybe you'll build a plane and learn to fly. Control line is cheap and fun. And already fully developed and tested lol.
Rusty

Thanks. I am definitely getting more and more with this engine. Hope to be able to start with 2 to 1 and, maybe, will not continue with a higher pulley ratio, although, unless I am able to spin the engine at very high RPM, I think I would be able to get 8V over a 10 Ohm resistor only and not the desired 12, which can be gotten at higher resistor values. On occasion, I am happy, on occasion I am getting sick and tired, so, I guess, for now, this will be as far as I can go.

A better dynamo, more powerful, would be an advantage. For now, I think I have proven the concept and would like to prove slightly more.

Robot797 has proven the concept even more as well as the CoxGen project.

Thus, we have 3 Cox generators so far which, combined with a few more non Cox generators on the web prove the concept and the possibility. Thus, whoever wants, can take what has been done and continue.

As far as flying is concerned, the only think I have been passionate of is driving a real car and rally driving on different surfaces. Not interested in any track driving nor drag racing. Rally only. Along with this, I have been interested in real motorbike riding but not in motorbike racing, just normal street and road driving with a preference of light and narrow bikes such as street legal off roads ( KTM ), European and Japanese bikes because they can make faster and sharper turns then the North American ones. However, I have been interested in long riding of a North American bike : standard Harley.

Other than this : no. So, no model planes and no model cars. Sorry. Nothing wrong with these but I am not into them. In other words : in case one was to offer a car, a bike, a private jet, a private rocket, etcetera : I would only take the car. Obviously, I may take the most expensive one to resell and get a car with the money and have some more.

The only thing I am interested with flying is the so called Delta Plane. A delta plane is a chair with a tiny EIC engine on the back which rotates a propeller and has a triangular cloth on top which serves the purpose of the wings. These are immensely popular in Europe but, looks like, disallowed in North America or, just, people are not interested because I have seen many such in Europe and not even one in North America. These are the motorbikes of flying. They fly excellently and are perfectly safe. They fly low and are affected by STRONG winds thus must only be flown at a normal weather.

The Rocket Man ( I forgot the name ) puts rocket engines on a suit, thus rockets can be put on a delta plane yet the EIC engine and the propeller are just as good and do not require too much fuel and burn standard gasoline.

Hollywood uses these to equip the US special forces which is not true in the reality. They are only used for recreational purposes. And Hollywood. : )

Here is more information on Delta Planes : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hang_gliding The real ones are the ones with a seat and not with hanging.

Also, these can be flown in most or all countries without any license and without any permission from any organisation. Just start the engine, sit and fly.

i had some trouble starting mine today

apperently running it on nitro and then on diesel makes starting harder

i also have cooked a crank on 250degrees C for 2 hours to temper it so it can handle the stressed better
now i can assemble a cox 049 car engine that has a recoil starter

if somone has a spare diesel head for me i can build a second generator

robot797 wrote:i had some trouble starting mine today

apperently running it on nitro and then on diesel makes starting harder

i also have cooked a crank on 250degrees C for 2 hours to temper it so it can handle the stressed better
now i can assemble a cox 049 car engine that has a recoil starter

if somone has a spare diesel head for me i can build a second generator

I cannot see how running on diesel after nitro makes a difference other than fuel residue or clogging or breaking something like valves and gaskets or wearing the crankcase and shaft housing tremendously which may happen when you try to start with an electric drill and push.

Cox have different gaskets and valves for diesel and nitro.

Cooking the crank can make the crank harder yet brittle. However, 250 C is not supposed to do any harm, maybe some surface strenghtening and not much of an effect.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:i had some trouble starting mine today

apperently running it on nitro and then on diesel makes starting harder

i also have cooked a crank on 250degrees C for 2 hours to temper it so it can handle the stressed better
now i can assemble a cox 049 car engine that has a recoil starter

if somone has a spare diesel head for me i can build a second generator

I cannot see how running on diesel after nitro makes a difference other than fuel residue or clogging or breaking something like valves and gaskets or wearing the crankcase and shaft housing tremendously which may happen when you try to start with an electric drill and push.

Cox have different gaskets and valves for diesel and nitro.

Cooking the crank can make the crank harder yet brittle. However, 250 C is not supposed to do any harm, maybe some surface strenghtening and not much of an effect.

I will soon order stuff from Cox and I can get you a brand new diesel head and whatever you need. Then I can mail general purpose mail to save you the mailing expense although I am not sure. I know general purpose mail to outside North America costs $1.80.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:i had some trouble starting mine today

apperently running it on nitro and then on diesel makes starting harder

i also have cooked a crank on 250degrees C for 2 hours to temper it so it can handle the stressed better
now i can assemble a cox 049 car engine that has a recoil starter

if somone has a spare diesel head for me i can build a second generator

I cannot see how running on diesel after nitro makes a difference other than fuel residue or clogging or breaking something like valves and gaskets or wearing the crankcase and shaft housing tremendously which may happen when you try to start with an electric drill and push.

Cox have different gaskets and valves for diesel and nitro.

Cooking the crank can make the crank harder yet brittle. However, 250 C is not supposed to do any harm, maybe some surface strenghtening and not much of an effect.

I will soon order stuff from Cox and I can get you a brand new diesel head and whatever you need. Then I can mail general purpose mail to save you the mailing expense although I am not sure. I know general purpose mail to outside North America costs $1.80.

The other thing is you may heve offset the piston and you need to reset. Offsetting happens in high RPM which is a feature of nitro engines.

Unlikely is to have heated up the piston to enlarge or change shape.

PLEASE, SAY BEFORE FRIDAY WHAT YOU WANT FROM COX AND I WILL GET THE ITEMS AND SEND YOU FOR FREE AS A GIFT TO A COLLEAGUE GENERATOR MAKER. Also, the more generators there are, the better.

DO YOU NEED A DIESEL CRANK?

you sir are one of the best people i know

and for that starting problems
i think that was becaus of leftover fuel in the engine

and for the crank
if i were to heat it untill it glowed red and after that dipping it in oil that would mean it got harder
i now have alterd the structure of the metal to become a bit softer

my thoughts tell me that if the crank it to hard it breaks from the diesel kickback
if it is softer it absorbs the blows and breaks less

hey i finished my car engine for the dieselizing proses
and here is a picture of the crank
the one on the left is untreated
the one on the right is heated and then slowly cooled



i am gonna test it with the diesel head of my generator

and from this chart you can see my tempering was at 226-260 degrees celcius
it should be flexable eniough to handle the load

robot797 wrote:you sir are one of the best people i know

and for that starting problems
i think that was becaus of leftover fuel in the engine

and for the crank
if i were to heat it untill it glowed red and after that dipping it in oil that would mean it got harder
i now have alterd the structure of the metal to become a bit softer

my thoughts tell me that if the crank it to hard it breaks from the diesel kickback
if it is softer it absorbs the blows and breaks less

Many people on the internet say Nitro cranks are week. However, for your application you can use a nitro crank with lowered compression and the Fuel Needle Valve positioned to a very low setting, just to start. Then you must ensure you always run rich and the compression is not strongly tightened. This way you will reduce tension to the crank. Ensure no flooding nor too much fuel when starting with the motor and always air thus you may wish to have the AirValve, Trottle, not more closed than 25%closed,75%open.

As far as hardening and softening is concerned, slow tempering down from hot will help you get rid from previous stress and relaxed the bent metal. I do not think the metal will soften.

i did follow the guid in the description of this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC19dElwAVA

he seemed like a guy who knows his stuff

that is why i decided to temper one crank (i have one or 2 special cranks more)

robot797 wrote:i did follow the guid in the description of this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC19dElwAVA

he seemed like a guy who knows his stuff

that is why i decided to temper one crank (i have one or 2 special cranks more)

No problems. Everything is OK when works.