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Post  RknRusty Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:09 pm

Oriental day finally came. I got it for my birthday last year and finished on about my birthday this  year. Yep, a "Build in one night," ARF. I sure hope I don't have to build another stunter out of necessity for a long time Lol.

As is my usual MO, I maidened it without any cosmetic parts. Except the cowl, on which I did a marvelous job... except for an accidental 5/64" hole right under the needle hole. Rolling Eyes  But it's neat. No canopy or decals, flap fairings(I have steel U retainers to do the fairing's job), or spinner, but I'll add all that before the next excursion. When I maidened the Osprey, I had "Pretty decorations go here" scribbled on each wing with a Sharpie.

Just to prove I went flying, here's the pic.
Awesome Awesome! Oriental Maiden WP_20150331_001_zpstnq9r1iq

The forecast was for clear and 78 with winds increasing gradually from 0 at 9:00 to 14 after 1:00. Wayne got caught in a traffic jam and I had to turn around and go back home to get my Philly Fliers lucky flying hat. I needed to warm up before the maiden so I put up a pattern on the Ukey. If you recall from my last report, I had to change props on the Ukster to compensate for repair induced  differences, thrust angle, I'm thinking, from an APC 9x4 to a 9x6. It flew perfectly and ran out of gas in the OH8. So I ordered some 9x5s and more 9x6s since in the Summer the Yak seems to like that one too. To make sure it wasn't a fluke or fueling mistake last time, I put it back up with the 9x6. I flew everything through the hourglass and stopped and just counted level laps. It flies about 5.1 seconds, btw. After 12, i got bored and quit counting and flew another minute.... so, 9x6 it is. Must've accidentally short tanked it last time.

Oriental time... oh yeah, no leadout terminations yet. But that was planned. My sore fingers weren't up to a wrapping job, so I asked Wayne to bring his swaging tool. He had some "special" tubes and it was done in no time. My god I was cringing during the pull test. We didn't have a fish scale and I know Wayne pulled over 10 Gs. It weighs 46.1 ounces. I didn't box in the top of the bellcrank bolt, but made the assembly pretty strong, so I trusted it. But still, I always sweat that that pull test. It made no noises, not even a creak.

So first flight. I learned that my overflow tube coming out of the bottom was a major pita to get too, especially when slippery. And the pressure/uniflow/fill tube to the muffler was siphoning and pouring gas out the muffler. We looked like a couple of monkeys out there trying to prime and crank, holding hemostats on the pressure tube, taking the glow plug out to dry it... the electric starter is great for clearing a hydrolocking flood. Sprays gas everywhere haha. What maroons. I finally realized if I hold it up and let it drain back before re-attaching it, it works just fine. Major dumb moment. At least I figured it out before Wayne did. Even dumber, I do it on my profiles all the time. Got it running on the first flip after we dried it out. It's a really easy engine to crank once we got the hang of it. I set it for a fairly lean launch, just a little bit of crackling. All I had was the Zinger 11x5, my magic props haven't arrived yet.

Off she went. With no canopy it looks like a yellow pilotless drone lol. Fairly good takeoff and 5 level laps for Wayne to check for level wings. It pulls hard. Not as much as the Magnum, but the hardest I've ever felt other than that. I also took the opportunity to work on my posture, leaning back into the tension. I have a bad habit of leaning toward the plane, which can be really bad news, like when the Magnum pulls me off the center circle and I lose input coming to the bottom of a maneuver. I've been lucky so far, but now I'm getting into the habit of showing it who's the boss. I chipped away at a wingover till I was sure it would go straight over the top. It was a little loose up there and I just did a simple wingover, then a couple of inside loops, and loose again at the tops. Enough for me to have to quickly back step. I could see the outboard wing, so there's a major clue. I exited the insides inverted and damn near couldn't hold enough down elevator to keep it from skidding in. BUt I managed to hold it level for 6 laps and started an outside loop. So loose I only did one. I flew a square and it wasn't too bad. I made long legs, so it had more energy up top and stayed tight enough. Same with a couple of triangles, and then I leveled off and flew it out. It was a 5 minute run. Not bad considering how much fuel we wasted with the siphoning and flooding. a fair landing, couple of bounces and rolled it out. It's flying 5.2 second laps.

Wayne reported a bad case of outboard wing high upright and low inverted. So I tweaked the flaps and flew it again. Not much better and a bouncy landing. More flap tweaking and the elevator needed straightening. I had noticed during the build that the elevator had one side at a different angle than the other. I straightened that out and tweaked the flaps some more too. As for the inverted flight still being hard to hold, I found that I wasn't able to pull full down, so made a handle correction. I don't remember the engine run time on this flight.

Ready for flight number three. The wind, maybe 10 mph by now, had shifted and was coming through nearby pine trees and swirling like mad. A great takeoff. I didn't notice till I was cleaning it later that it that when the fuselage is level as in a roll out on takeoff, that the prop tip is ½” off the ground. I need bigger wheels. But… I rolled out a long one on this flight. I’m surprised I made it without a prop strike. After liftoff, I actually flew almost a full lap before I hit cruising altitude. That was about my best ever takeoff. I would've gotten good points for that one. Over the top, tight lines, so I went ahead and flew a reverse wingover. Nice! I pulled out flat too. I'm always terrible about bobbling on my bottoms. I did three good inside loops, nice easy inverted control, outside loops, inside squares, triangles and a figure 8. Effortlessly. It was grooving now and I was standing straight and leaning back against it. With the squirrely wind bouncing it around, I only did 45 degree top stunts, but pulled out flat on bottoms more consistently than I ever have before. I flew it out from there, adding a loop here and a wingover there. Engine run time, 8 minutes. The engine was not hot after the full 2-stroke runs, so it looks like my venturi is fine for this setup, and so is the 11x5 Zinger, and i have plenty of fuel capacity..

I will, however try the 10.5x4.5 APCs that I ordered for it. And the tongue muffler. That bit of reduced nose weight might help it turn quicker. Or it might bring my bobbling bottoms back. I should have them any day now. Who knows, maybe I'll fin d an even be better combination. I'm convinced now that this will be my contest plane. Two contests in May, coming up. And I'll fly in the profile event with the Ukey. I did do overheads with it. If I'd known the gas wouldn't run out, I would have done a full pattern, but that one warmup flight was the only flight of the Ukster today.

Sorry about the lack of video. I took the camera, but was too busy to bother with the distraction of it. I almost hollered to Wayne to turn it on, but I knew it wasn't set for the right mode.

So my maiden evaluation is, by the third flight, I love it!
Rusty

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Post  stuntflyr Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:06 am

Sounds like it went pretty well, Rusty. You're on your way.
Chris...
P.S. Don't worry about those 1 year ARF's, we all have them, or longer versions!
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:21 am

Just to give you a little heads up on your storage of the plane. Oil and residual fuel will more than likely load the top end of the engine. Prior to your next start up with the help of a assistant and the plane upside down, burp it out a few times with some prime prior to starting on it's gear. Burping it out prior to an official is also a good idea prior to fueling and heading out to the circle.  Flooding it out and flipping it can take out a plug . If it does get loaded, right the plane cylinder pointed up and rock the prop back and forth until the flood clears then turn the engine venturi pointed down and it will run out. Maybe common knowledge, but understanding a inverted engine can be a chore to those whom are not familiar.

I was a big fan of the 10.5 x 4.5 on the Oriental. Combined with the tongue it gave a very audible note right when the needle was in the sweet spot. I'm glad to see all worked well. Replumbing the tank by placing all the tubes forward can be very helpful. You can place a small piece of tubing through the fuse with a 90 deg bend pointing into the wind. This can be attached internally with a small piece of fuel tubing. The overflow can exit out the front firewall with a 90 deg pointed down and out the cowling. I had my uniflow tube piped to my tongue muffler. This can easily be cut in half and joined with a small piece of copper tubing. Pull it apart, fuel through the uniflow . ken



 Good luck Ken
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Post  getback Wed Apr 01, 2015 7:36 am

Thanks for the report Rusty good to hear things are working out to get you ready for the next events, I have never ran an engine inverted I am sure as Ken said and your experience's that it would be some learning involved . Did you make that cowl or just finish it ? either way looks good with the plane . Eric Very Happy
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Post  roddie Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:02 am

Hi Rusty, I'm glad that you had a good experience yesterday. It's always interesting to read about the trimming that takes place. I would have never known about some of the methods.. and will remember them for future reference. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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Post  rogermharris Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:46 am

wow! that's some report. sounds like overall a very fun and exciting day. congratulations!
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Post  RknRusty Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:13 am

Thanks Roddie, Eric and Roger. This is all big fun to me, though it does sound a lot like work to many people.

Ken Cook wrote:Just to give you a little heads up on your storage of the plane. Oil and residual fuel will more than likely load the top end of the engine. Prior to your next start up with the help of a assistant and the plane upside down, burp it out a few times with some prime prior to starting on it's gear. Burping it out prior to an official is also a good idea prior to fueling and heading out to the circle.  Flooding it out and flipping it can take out a plug . If it does get loaded, right the plane cylinder pointed up and rock the prop back and forth until the flood clears then turn the engine venturi pointed down and it will run out. Maybe common knowledge, but understanding a inverted engine can be a chore to those whom are not familiar.
Ken, that is extremely useful information, and I'll add that to my practice routine. Getting it cranked at the line without burning any of my 8 minutes is what worries me most. Thanks for the lesson. Wayne doesn't have a lot of experience with inverted engines either, so we both need to work on this. I won't have him helping me at a contest as he's either judging or flying another event.

Ken Cook wrote:I was a big fan of the 10.5 x 4.5 on the Oriental. Combined with the tongue it gave a very audible note right when the needle was in the sweet spot. I'm glad to see all worked well. Replumbing the tank by placing all the tubes forward can be very helpful. You can place a small piece of tubing through the fuse with a 90 deg bend pointing into the wind. This can be attached internally with a small piece of fuel tubing. The overflow can exit out the front firewall with a 90 deg pointed down and out the cowling. I had my uniflow tube piped to my tongue muffler. This can easily be cut in half and joined with a small piece of copper tubing. Pull it apart, fuel through the uniflow . ken

 Good luck Ken
My 10.5x4.5 props should be here tomorrow, and I'm holding my tongue muffler right now. Boy, it weighs nothing. It has two rows of seven 1/16" holes, and I'll have to drill one for the pressure tap. Not much material to tap for a pressure nipple, so I may have to JB Weld it on. This will shift my CG to the rear. As it is, it's 1-7/8" from the LE as the book suggested. But I'll see how I like it and go with what works for me. The new props may very well work better, because this engine obviously likes to 2-stroke. And the slightly higher RPM I'm guessing they will spin might give it even more authority, especially in the wind. I still haven't done any Overhead 8s, V-8s, hourglass or clover leaf yet. I didn't have the guts for it yesterday, and i was getting tired by the time we got it trimmed level and tight. I launched a little rich on the last flight and it was completely gutless until it leaned out a little bit during my first 5 laps, then I was in the groove.

Mine is plumbed exactly as you describe, as is my fueling method, through the uniflow tube. It's spliced with a 3/4" aluminum tube in the middle. All tubes forward, through the bulkhead with the overflow out the bottom and uniflow to the muffler. I need to secure the Overflow better, as I accidentally detached it from the tank and had to open it up and fix it before my 3rd flight. I made it easier to access, but I would like to make it exit the cowl with a copper tube.
Thanks for all the advice.
Rusty

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Post  gcb Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:41 pm

Rusty, That's a fine looking Oriental!

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Post  andrew Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:57 pm

Thanks for the update, Rusty. I always enjoy reading your posts.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:07 pm

Thanks George. It looks kind of like a pilotless drone without the canopy. Up close, the ARFkote leaves something to be desired. I can't get it to stay stuck down very well in some places. But if you tape down all the seams, it's really tough stuff.

I've been downloading dragon pictures for decals. The ones that came in the box are sort of cartoonish silly looking dragons, and I want scary dragons, or at least cool ones. Decal paper is on my shopping list for tomorrow, clear and white backed. I'll make my numbering and letters with Microsoft Word's word art. That looked good on my Osprey. It always looks way better on the computer, so I know to add extra boldness to the colors.I'll try to get the canopy on tomorrow too. I'll probably go fly again Tuesday or Thursday, and I want it finished by then. I also want to make some decals for the Magnum too.

I'm ready to finish trimming and fly some patterns with the thing. Props, mufflers and possibly leadouts are about all that's left to try out. Right now at 5.2 second laps with a steady 2-stroke, wings level up and down is looking pretty close. I know it's tight in the wingover, but the rest of the stunts higher than 45 degrees have yet to be tested. I've done all of the under 45 stunts except the outside square. I hate that stunt, though I usually fly it okay.

Looking forward to posting some more successful flight reports. And I've made the decision not to crash any more.
Rusty

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Post  RknRusty Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:18 pm

andrew wrote:Thanks for the update, Rusty.  I always enjoy reading your posts.
andrew
Hey, Andrew, I thought about you after I wrote it, hoping you're still reading my stories. I haven't seen you around much, I hope all is well and you're still having fun.
I think I've come a long way since the old RCG days, you can take credit for a lot of my progress. A few of that old crowd are here. Surfer Kris, for one.
Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:40 am

Rusty, I taped my canopy onto the top block. You need to be very careful here as you can easily separate the covering adhesive from the wood and it will not iron back down. I use blue painter's tape by 3M which is the light blue and not the dark blue. It has better tack and it also removes very easy. Once the canopy is in place, I take a new #11 and I trace around the canopy. You can't allow the canopy to move at all when doing this. This is something that can't be rushed. The canopy also has a bit of flare at the end. You can carefully remove some of this using a sharp pair of scissors. Once the covering is marked, you can drop the knife all the way through the wood. There is stringers however supporting the top block as this isn't a solid carved block but a molded sheeted deck. Don't cut through the stringers or your going to have a mess on your hands. Using the fine X-acto saw can speed this process up a little. I just carefully made the recess larger using the #11. Once done scuff the rim of the canopy with sandpaper but not high enough to allow it to show. This allowed me to sink the canopy into the top deck . I used epoxy slathered into the groove. Clean the interior portion well with a alcohol rag and insert the canopy taping it down. This insures that it won't come off due to tape softening if the tape method is used. Another option is to just glue it in with Elmer's white glue.
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