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Post  londke3 Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:54 am

rsv1cox wrote:Thanks everyone.  

Kari, Yes, I plan on mounting the bell crank inside the fuselage, but I'm not sure how to position it and the wing lead outs guide.  Got to put everything together first and establish CG.

Phil and Lieven, this was the later Galloping Ghost system, no rubber band.  Facinating to watch in operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBSRmlIGSWQ

This one was mostly intact, but no transmitter.  We actually got the mechanism to work.  

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Vintage style connectors found on this old girl.

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I have't seen a Galloping Ghost in many years. My dad had one in a plane called a RudderBug built in the 60's. He flew it up til his death in 1986. The guys would scratch their heads and ask my dad why he flew "that old junk", he would say "it still works and it still flies so why not?" He also had a few gliders with the Ace single channel pulse radios. A hard way to fly for sure.
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Post  rsv1cox Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:03 am

rsv1cox wrote:Even though I work on this model everyday, progress is slow.  I have had to graft in many patches and add filler to cure the previous builders woes, it really would have been easier and quicker to build it from scratch.  

I think I can eliminate the need for rubber bands on the lower wing.  I added a blind nut and nylon bolt to attach the wing to the fuselage and keep the wing centered as the U/C  wires will exert some pressure on the wing even though the bell crank is secured inside the fuselage.  

My problem is...how do solve the problem of the control wires that have to go through the guide and yet allow me to detach the wing?   Maybe if I make the end loops small enough to go through the eyelets.  If I can’t figure that out I may be forced to glue the lower wing to the fuselage.  

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I'm close to a couple of coats of sanding sealer followed by primer and paint.  I'm thinking all white with black German crosses and maybe a Jolly Roger decal on the tail.  I'm going to use the original Enya .09 that came on it, but it it proves to draggy I have a .15 at the ready.

Still...lot’s to do but I’m having fun doing it.  Smile

Maybe something like this:

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Post  pkrankow Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:36 am

Split lead out guides. They wrap about 3/4 of the way around and have a gap, there is a gap between each pair arranged in the other direction. The LO gets slacked, turned inline with the fuselage, and then can pass out of the gap.

Alternately use the plywood plate and a couple nuts and bolts to hold a second plywood plate with the LO's through it. This allows for LO adjustment in addition to freeing the wing.

Hope I was clear, I can draw some pictures if you need.

Phil
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Post  rsv1cox Thu Feb 11, 2016 1:05 pm

I think I can visulaize your meaning Phil, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Smile

It seems like I still would have wires sticking out of the fuselage.  I'm thinking a couple of 2/56 clevises similar to the one I used (first picture above) for the elevator control then just unscrewing and removing the rods when I'm finished flying.  But I'm worried about the rods unscrewing in flight.

Bob
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Post  KariFS Thu Feb 11, 2016 1:47 pm

Maybe something like this? This is Roddie's pic, hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it Smile

Winging it - Page 2 Adj_le10

This is an adjustable guide but with less slots you could make one that can be split when necessary. Maybe that's what Phil meant also?
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Post  VUgearhead Thu Feb 11, 2016 2:33 pm

Why don't you just make the LO guide removable with a couple of screws? (
Assuming you aren't running the LO's inside the wing)
Unscrew the LO guide, wing is ready to depart!
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Post  pkrankow Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:03 pm

rsv1cox wrote:I think I can visulaize your meaning Phil, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Smile

It seems like I still would have wires sticking out of the fuselage.  I'm thinking a couple of 2/56 clevises similar to the one I used (first picture above) for the elevator control then just unscrewing and removing the rods when I'm finished flying.  But I'm worried about the rods unscrewing in flight.

Bob
Here's one version of the second idea much better DONE than I could probably draw.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/building-techniques/build-cartoon-scale-mooney-mite/msg435630/#msg435630

Here's a slightly different version of my first idea.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/scale-models/leadout-guide-how-to/

Phil
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Post  rsv1cox Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:36 pm

Thanks Phil, I like it. Makes the lower wing detachable and leaves just a couple of short lead-outs. I robbed his picture.

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My idea is to use threaded 2/56 rods and cleavis's then just unscrew and remove the rods and the wing when I'm finished flying. But they would be heavy and create even more drag on this already draggy model. I haven't glued in the wing tip guide yet, or located the eyelets on the fuselage.

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Bob


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Post  getback Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:34 am

Bob its looking good , rebuilding can be challenging for sure I got an ole Shoestring I need to do something with sometime or put It upstairs so I cant see it as often :lol Are you going to leave the control on the BC in that outer hole ? I think that's were I had mine on the Reed speed and was for Max throw? Did you give up on trying to find a pulse system/ I know you were looking at one time , they are $$ when ya find a good one !! Eric RC Plane
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Feb 13, 2016 7:24 am

getback wrote:Bob its looking good , rebuilding can be challenging for sure I got an ole Shoestring I need to do something with sometime or put It upstairs so I cant see it as often :lol Are you going to leave the control on the BC in that outer hole ? I think that's were I had mine on the Reed speed and was for Max throw? Did you give up on trying to find a pulse system/ I know you were looking at one time , they are $$ when ya find a good one !! Eric RC Plane  

Challenging and fun Eric. I'm enjoying bringing this old timer back to life. I figure someone built it aound the time you were just a pup. Smile

I finally sanded the front cover to shape. I made it detachable so I can get to the front half of the bell crank if needed.

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I have the clevis in the outer hole until I see how well it flys. I figure I may need a good deal of throw at first until I find the balance point. I will be happy if it just goes round and round.

Hopefully fixing the lower wing to the fuselage using a nylon bolt will keep the wing from shifting laterally inside the rubber bands. But I may eliminate the bands by pinning the back of the wing.

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If I'm screwing something up here I hope someone will point it out..... Smile

Bob
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Post  rsv1cox Tue Feb 16, 2016 10:05 am

Final of three coats of sanding sealer thinned 60/40, last coat sanded this morning w/150 grit.  Now I just have add all of this stuff and spray on a coat of primer, then color/decals and hope for a nice day.  Thinking 52' steel lines and enough space to get it airborne.  Smile

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Already looking at another project using the tail section of the plane that I used to make the wings on the Aircrate.  

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How about vectored thrust????  Kidding.  I will split the elevator and mount the engine between the two halfs.  But...will it fly???  Sorta flat wings work on a hollow log, but on this?  No camber on this R/C model tail section whats-so-ever it's totally flat.  A long nose moment will be required.

Bob
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