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Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  RknRusty on Sun 19 Mar 2017, 20:28

ian1954 wrote:The cut off wheel I use most often is 0.02375", it is not the thinnest but not as "delicate" as the thinner ones.

May be a little late in the topic but I am slowly catching up. My eye surgery wasn't successful and I have been having injections in my eye every week and a gazillion drops to apply. Added to that, I have managed to tear my calf muscle. Enough of that!
Sorry you're having such a rough time, Ian. And disappointing... for me as well, I dearly wanted to see your vision improved too. I understand very well what it's like to have an unfair physical obstacle to one's ability to have the kind of fun that fuels their soul. I'm out of business with a handle in my hand as well.

ian1954 wrote:I see a few now - instead of using spruce strips - are making up balas and carbon tow sandwiches. I have tried this and it results in a very strong but still light spar that can still be sanded in.
Yep, like a pocket sandwich. Just cut a slot across the glue joint and use small threads off of the tow, twisted together and packed in tightly. CA, repeat until it won't hold anymore. Though I talked about doing it and bought the tow, I opted for 1/64" ply and CA.

Last night and today I continued working on small stuff. I got the flaps and TE slotted and the flap-slots recessed. Also bored the coupler holes and grooves without coming through the side. With sandpaper on one side of my 48" aluminum angle iron, clamped in the vice, I was able to bevel perfect 45 degree edges on the hinge-line of the flaps, nice and sharp. After making the 1/64" flap doublers and sanding the edges to blend without making a hump, I called it a day. I did manage to get the flaps fit up with only a 1/8" gap on each side of the fuselage.


Now I can go ahead and glue the wing in place. That will involve smoothing out the roughly cleaned out root area of the fuselage with some thin stock I've shaped for a nice clean and snug fit. The incidence line came out at zero degrees, so I'm very happy about that.

Best of luck, Ian. I hope you get back in action soon.
Rusty

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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  getback on Mon 20 Mar 2017, 06:32

Rusty the Twister is looking good brother , i was wondering about the spar repair i had asked i guess you missed it , but that OK ......... This darn spring thing and work is got me were i just can't seem to get to my plane building , haven't even cleaned any engines in awhile . If i am not getting R done I am getting R rested lol! Ian hope things get better with your eyes soon brother !and the calf too !! Smile
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  RknRusty on Mon 20 Mar 2017, 10:50

getback wrote:i was wondering about the spar repair i had asked i guess you missed it...
Sorry, Eric. How about re-ask the question so I don't have to research it.

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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  RknRusty on Thu 23 Mar 2017, 23:32

I'm lovin' this carbon veil. It's very forgiving stuff as long as you work faster than the dope dries. And just like silkspan, any overlaps around the edges can be removed with a few swipes of 320 grit and it's as clean of a cut as a razor blade. Unfortunately you can tell which one I did first. That's just the beveled edge where the wood is exposed, not any of the flat surface. Also, unfortunately, that's the pretty(top) side, DOH! But I don't think it'll show under the paint. I did that before I realized scissors were the wrong way to trim the edges.
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  Cribbs74 on Fri 24 Mar 2017, 00:27

Cool! What's it feel like to work with? Looks kind of like reallly thin felt.
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  getback on Fri 24 Mar 2017, 07:06

RknRusty wrote:
getback wrote:i was wondering about the spar repair i had asked i guess you missed it...
Sorry, Eric. How about re-ask the question so I don't have to research it.
I was wondering about the spar repair with the Carbon Tow string / but you had told Ian you opted from using it , That's all Rusty Huh...
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  Ken Cook on Sat 25 Mar 2017, 07:13

Rusty, one thing to keep in mind. If your using dope on the flaps and this is laser cut material, make certain you apply equal coats to the top and bottom of the flaps. If for instance, you coat the top then flip it over and coat the bottom and place the flap down on the table to dry, the top flashes off faster than the bottom and induces a warp. The underlying side has the solvent trapped and remains wet so to speak and the top quickly dries. If possible, hang them using a clothes pin on a string or wire so that they dry equally. When trying to bury the veil in multiple coats of dope, also make certain that you don't coat one side more than the other. A few days later, you might start to see the flap cupping and warping due to the side with the more material shrinking more. I have experienced this more with lighter wood ( laser cut stock) than with stock that was used in die cut kits. In the event you witness what I'm stating, coat the opposing side only and many times it will pull it back. Ken
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  roddie on Sat 25 Mar 2017, 10:22

Happy birthday Dude! Happy Birthday  I spent an hour catching-up on this thread this morning.. and there's some great repair-tips!

I have a question on how you did the lead-outs at the bellcrank. I've always used solid-wire.. and want to try stranded. Regarding the brass tubing; do you use a shim when forming the U-bend, to prevent pinching the arms? Can you form the bend(s) by hand.. or do you need pliers? They look really slick!

What size (dia.) is the stranded-cable that you're using? I have a spool of cable that we used to hang signs with at work years ago.. but it's .031" dia.



These crimp-ferrules are made for use with it.. although they may not be safe enough alone (or at all..) for our application. The cable will only pass through these ferrules twice.. rather than the three times that's recommended for brass-tube crimps.




Hope you enjoy your birthday buddy! Thumbs Up

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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  RknRusty on Sat 25 Mar 2017, 19:38

Thanks for the tips. Ken, I am aware of the bowing effect of uneven doping and took precautions. My little flap-painting holder shown below has braces made from Exacto blades hat allow me to rock it back and forth so I can easily flip from working one side to the other without touching the table and fouling my work.In the picture below, they are rocked over, but when I left them to dry, they were standing upright.



Roddie, I have answers to all of your questions. But I gotta take a break right now. My wire is .027". I'll get back to it later, and I'll answer Eric's question too. I've been in Huntersville all day and a 2 hour traffic jam on the way home.
Rusty

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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  roddie on Sat 25 Mar 2017, 23:47

Cooooool man! I got stuck in traffic today too. Bridge re-construction detoured a major divided state-highway through a nearby small town in-between exits. There were more police-details than I've seen in YEARS!!! Both local and state.
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  Ken Cook on Sun 26 Mar 2017, 07:39

Roddie, the Sullivan C-D leadout kits were very good quality back in the day. That was the staple for most kits. AThey can still be purchased but like most everything quality went into the toilet. They changed they're crimp tubes which used to be bullet proof. They added some aluminum piece of crap which I wouldn't use to fix a shoelace. Doing a quick net search I see Tower Hobbies list the C-D kit for $7.39 with the copper crimps. Sullivan gold wire is very strong and it also is very flexible making it a good choice Brodak kits have a tendency to be short almost all the time. The wire also is very firm which makes it incredibly difficult to bend and if you over do it, your kinking it putting a stress wire in the leadout. MBS Model Supply sells 300' of .027 for $17. Considering Tower Hobbies sells the Sullivan wire with each kit having less than 8' per package you can see there's a benefit. Your spool of wire would work all you need is some termination equipment. I rarely wrap wires and use mostly crimps. My father made me a nice tool for swaging the cable. I have never had a crimp fail. In general. crimps rarely failed if done properly, the cable breaks directly in front of the sleeve. Using shrink tubing though can add considerable life in regards to preventing the flexing in front of the sleeve which causes the break.
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Re: Twister Wing cleanup & Re-installation

Post  roddie on Sun 26 Mar 2017, 10:00

Thanks Ken, You gave me a lot of great advice when I made my first set and a button-style crank for my 1/2A foamie. I used some .018" that I cut from a set of 52' lines. I like Rusty's bearing-tubes that he has installed in his crank.. and was curious of how he formed the bends. The first 90 degree leg of the "U" would seem easy enough.. but it's the 2nd bend (turn-back) that puzzles me. How do you keep from pinching the arm(s).. and also maintain a reasonably perpendicular form for a bearing? This is where I assumed that a shim of some sort is used to set a gap.. and then removed after the 2nd bend is formed..?

EDIT: taking another look.. I see that Rusty's bellcrank has countersunk holes for the bearing-tubes.. and the crank-arms look like they're thinned-down at the ends. Does that bellcrank set-up come as a "kit" with the brass tubes?



I'd like to try that when I get around to working on my Ringmaster's wing.
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