Jim won't run ??

How's the compression? If the glow-plugs glow bright... I'd check the head "and" plug gaskets. Are you "hand-flipping" the engine? Sometimes.. you need more revs to start an old engine. PM me.. and I'll give more details.

close off needle, make sure plug is bright white/orange, see if it will start off a prime in exhaust port? if so spray bar might have crap in it. you should run a high caster content, but that wouldn't affect starting.

HAnd flipping Roddie , the comp. is fair i would say / replaced plug with new A3 . When it did hit it sounded strong and no i have not tore it all the way down just ck'ed the NVA and got her loosened up ?? Mark i did try that got the flood out after some over priming / closed the needle and flippy flippy then exh. prime still nothing . If i have time today i may try and start again , i have recharged my battery for the panel . If that don't work this time i will tear it down and inspect closer >> I like the way it sounded I had rather not put the elect finger on it if i had one for 1/2a . Thanks guys i will getback to ya'll

Getback,

Are you sure you have an .049? I believe that engine was made for Jim Walker but was also sold as the Royal Spitfire .065. They are low compression so need a hot plug and some nitro.

They are reasonable engines for the time they were produced. Keep trying, they DO run. You might, as previously suggested, flush it out and get it to run off primes. I would suggest priming with a drop of fuel on the side of the piston while the piston has the cylinder closed off to prevent flooding.

Here are some Royal Spitfires:

 

George

Hi Eric, this morning I wrote a clever two paragraph response to your problem only to have it escape to web never-never land when I hit send.

Too bad, it solved all your JW problems but due to my advanced age I can't remember a thing that I wrote. But I will try................

I love those little top hat intake covers, sort of a Howdy Mam tip-of-the-hat when in operation.... I had the same problem with one of my Mossie Enya's. Lot's of flooding and spits and starts but no sustained run throughout the NVA's range.

It took an A/F boil and some NVA alignment to fix it, now it's fine. It would seem that with all that flooding it would clean out the NVA but not always. After the boil I dumped the whole disassembled assembly into a pot of Simple Green and used a variety of brushes to to finish the cleaning process. But most importantly, I ran a fine wire through the needle valve and the central spray hole, then rinsed in clean HOT water and blew everything out with compressed air and reassembled with RemOil.

Then I took special care to ensure that the venturi's spray hole was positioned directly down the intake. I know there has been discussion here about that with some advocating an off center position, but on-center has always worked for me. Ensure your needle's tip in great condition.

The principles are all the same either JW or Enya, you need ignition, compression, intake "timing", and fuel in the proper quantity. If you have all of those your engine should run just fine. But you know all this.

Good luck with it. I haven't tried to run my top hat JW yet.

Bob

getback wrote: If i have time today i may try and start again , i have recharged my battery for the panel .

Eric, if your "panel-battery" ever craps-out when you want to bench-run, you can use an automotive-type 12V battery charger (6A+.. not a trickle-charger) without a battery. Connect it directly to the leads of your panel, being careful not to let the connections short-out. Clip them; spread well-apart to a piece of non-conductive material. Usually there's 110V to plug-into nearby when your bench-running. I used to do it all the time. I'm not sure about the "newer" automatic chargers though. They may need to sense an actual battery in the circuit to switch-on. My chargers are old ones.

If you have a 2nd panel.. consider making it a dedicated bench-panel and use a 12V power-supply, powered by AC mains. Save the batteries for your field-box. Find an old (or new..) low-voltage (DC) outdoor lighting transformer and hard-wire it to your panel. Be sure it has a 12V DC output-voltage. I've had my fill of battery-troubles contributing to issues with starting a glow-engine. They're a necessary entity for remote-locations.. but why use them when you don't need to?

Thanks George maybe mix some 35% with extra castor will help it seal .Roddie i dont have another panel but do have other batt,s just need to switch it out the one in it is fair but dont hold a charge as long as it should. ... Bob Thanks for re=posting the solution I feel good about the spray bar had cleaned it with carb cleaner and it floods good through there (kept getting air bubbles in the line from the bad set up and syringed it to get them out ) It may have Crap built up in the crankcase , If i can't get it next time i will tear her down !!

Ok I forgot i had this info .. http://www.americanjuniorclassics.com/Firebee/firebee_gallery.html Looks to bee a Firecracker .065 that came with the FireBee kit ? I am thinking Monday afternoon will be my next attempt to start with the Tach Rach engines and getting wood for the cool nights were still having and weather all over the board MUST GET FIRE WOOD FIRST ! THEN PLAY

Ok it still wont run needs a deep cleaning when i went back to try again there was Green Ole Nitro coming out the drive plate area , my Question now is .. Is this the wrench for this engine ??  
 It wants to fit but there has been activatie in the rear that was slipping sooooo it don't want to just slide in there and don't want to mess up the wrench for sure !! May take some filing ?  Any one know if it the right one ?? Thanks !!  

It looks like the larger hexagon should fit Eric, but if it's slipping with the possibility of causing more damage to a valuable engine I wouldn't push it. I have never seen a wrench like that so I don't know. I have removed those back plates before but don't know exactly how I did it, probably loose to begin with.

I enjoyed that link so much I saved it. Keep at it, should run.

Bob

Eric,

Cleaning out the inside of the case isn't really necessary to make it run. Your problem is nore than likely in the NV/intake area. If it fires on prime and doesn't draw fuel then that is where I would concentrate.

Ron

Hello again ,Boiled the Jim Walker Firecracker .065 in anti-freeze awhile , Did manage to get the head off this time / still not the back the Wrench just don't want to fit BUT, while i had it off looks like it needs a long plug . I put one in it and bottomed out right at the squish point for comp. The head has a alum. gasket , fitted it all up and mounted the engine back to the board. NOW it is hitting about ever time and did run briefly But is kicking so hard i can't get the chicken stick out the way before it contacts it with a Wop (glad its not my finger) so now i am thinking the comp/timing is off . Don't know if i should add a shim to the plug or the head ?? I am thinking the Head any suggestions ? Thanks , Eric