Baby Ringmaster build

Oldenginerod wrote:

chevyiron420 wrote:That Ringmaster uses the smaller elevator and also probably has a funny looking rudder and longer tail moment. I think it is a estes design? My son has one in junior size and it flies good. I have one that I scaled down from the junior size for use with a .099 cub and it flies good. The wing is thiner though.

.099 on a scaled down RM Junior?  Sounds like overkill.  How was the weight?  I'd like to use a Cub .099 on something but they're just too darn loud
I know they are pretty light for their capacity.

I cant remember the weight but it has a 28 inch wingspan and the plan file is labeled 82% Ringmaster. I had to laugh a bit when I looked for the plan cause it was on floppy disks. They still worked so I copied it over to a newer computer.

Nice looking plane Chevy!

I finally got the main wing built up, its been hard trying to find time to go and build with family and other projects/models on the go. Just have to sheet in the center section of the wing and finish the tips. I'm going to also epoxy the engine bay and surrounding area with thinned out 30 min epoxy to protect it from fuel. It's starting to look like airplane, hopefully this weekend I can do a bit more.  






Canso07.

Finally got some more progress on the ringmaster. I got the nose epoxied for fuel proofing, first time I did that method with thinned out 30 min epoxy and I like it.
I got the wings covered which was a huge step! I went old school and used tissue and dope, turned out all right for not doing that method in awhile.
I want to fly it this summer so more work coming!

Great job on this one Canso07 mega points for you, nice and clean  
I like the bare all aluminum crank case good cooling for sure!

MAn that looks GREAT !! You have done a good job on the wing / tissue what did you use to thin the epoxy with for fuel proofing ? Looking forward to the finished product !

Really nice work, Canso07; can see the Ringmaster Jr. heritage.

Thanks for the comments. I used methyl ethyl ketone to thinn the epoxy, outside of course its very powerful.

Canso07 wrote:Thanks for the comments. I used methyl ethyl ketone to thin the epoxy,  outside of course its very powerful.

Well thats interesting i had to look it up .. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-010-Tee-Dee-Model-Airplane-Engine-Cylinder-Piston-Parts-Set-TD-010/392093830945?epid=2146712953&hash=item5b4a9d0f21%3Ag%3Ac1kAAOSwkShbY3BP&_sacat=2562&_nkw=cox+engine+lots&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1312.R3.TR0.TRC3.A0.H0.TRS5 well either way it looks good !

Looks great!

Ok I know this topic has been talked about lots but, I'm still trying to decide on what spray paint brand and procedure is best for nitro fuel. I've been thinking about Krylon spray paint?
Any thoughts would help..

Thanks.

I brush on SIG butyrate dope. I have no place where I could use a spray can, unless I drove to a less populated place and used it by the road.

yeah I've used Sig lots but the fuel always leave marks. Do you use a clear coat of some sort David?

I have not noticed marks left by the fuel. I think the top coat has always been colored dope. I clean with alcohol or detergent after flight or engine runs. I used to use Aero Gloss, but there is one model I have flown several times recently with SIG, and I do not see any fuel marks.

Your model looks really nice. If you decide to use a "rattle-can" spray-paint finish.. I would first spray a coat of primer (I like the automotive grey-primer). Check/sand/fill and re-prime/sand if needed. The primer dries very quickly. You can apply a base-coat of color, literally within minutes.

Rattle-can colors/brands vary widely.. when it comes to fuel resistance. You're being in Canada; you may not have access to high-nitro glow-fuel. This would be more forgiving to a final finish on your airplane.

As of "late"... (being the last few years..) I have been using rattle-can finishes (following primer coats) on my airplanes. I try to keep the color-coats to a minimum so as to save weight. I usually spray multiple-coats within the specified time outlined in the directions.. and then let that finish "gas-off" (dry/cure) for several weeks. I then follow-up with clear-polyurethane (rattle-can) coats to provide more resistance to high-nitro glow-fuel. It's always a good idea when you pack for a flying-session; to include some spray-cleaner and rags to wipe-down the model after every flight.

Good luck!

Dope is not fuel proof and raw fuel will leave marks. 35% nitro will wash dope off if done repeatedly. Sig Lite Coat clear has the highest fuel resistance of all the dopes out there. Sig Supercoat will work but not with the same results as the Lite Coat. Klass Kote epoxy finishes yield the ultimate finish for fuel resistance however spray equipment is recommended due to the weight. Brodak dope hardly holds up to repeated 10% nitro exposure. John over the past few years has had Crystal Clear developed which is quite expensive compared to the conventional butyrate clear. John claims it holds up as well as the Sig Lite Coat.

ok thanks guys...I use Sig 25% nitro in my cox engines. I always wipe down the model after flying, maybe it's just me being picky about the finish lol.
I'm going to try the polyurethane top coat Roddie, have you ever noticed yellowing from the polyurethane?

Well, this sucks! I was going to tell you to use the oil based Minwax Polyurethane in a spray can from Homedepot, and when went to get you the link, I see they no longer sell it! This sucks cayse, even though it is oil based, this does NOT yellow like the stuff in the brush on stuff. I am almost out of my last can, so I will also be looking I to it. I can get you the skull number if you like tomorrow evening. This is the best I have found here in Canada, and was recommended to me by a very good local builder,and I have been using it for a few years now.

Ok. So I didn't forget tomorrow, I got my lany behind other of bed and here is the skull number.
0 67166 33050 1

To note, the very first and last digits (0 and 1), were slightly smaller than the ones in between.

Looks like Ronald has it!

https://www.rona.ca/en/varnish---polyurethane-varnish-1449084--1

Sold!...thanks a lot NEW222 I will try it.