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by 944_Jim Wed Mar 27, 2024 10:14 pm
Guillows C/L handle
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Guillows C/L handle
Not sure where I got this handle. I've never had a Guillows kit where it may have been supplied.
Notice the "swirls" of color, indicative of injection-mold color-changes between different parts production runs such as engine-cowlings.
Ergonomically it's a comfortable little handle.. but rather thin/fragile when compared to the Cox handles.. and has no provision for locking a neutral-adjustment. I wouldn't be inclined to use it on a high-powered 1/2A model. It does have a variety of line-spacing options though. Some sort of post or "stand-off" would be beneficial for locking neutral. I may try drilling a small hole for a sleeved machine-screw and flat-washer to wrap the line around so it won't slip and retain with a small rubber-band.
Notice the "swirls" of color, indicative of injection-mold color-changes between different parts production runs such as engine-cowlings.
Ergonomically it's a comfortable little handle.. but rather thin/fragile when compared to the Cox handles.. and has no provision for locking a neutral-adjustment. I wouldn't be inclined to use it on a high-powered 1/2A model. It does have a variety of line-spacing options though. Some sort of post or "stand-off" would be beneficial for locking neutral. I may try drilling a small hole for a sleeved machine-screw and flat-washer to wrap the line around so it won't slip and retain with a small rubber-band.
neutral-setter
I haven't tried this yet.. but a little 10 min. modification might give this handle a chance at being used someday. I drilled a hole (#45 .082" drill) for a 2-56 machine-screw and installed one that's 1/2" long with a piece of alloy tubing for a sleeve. Two #2 flat-washers and 2-56 double-nuts secures it.
Wrapping the line alternately a few turns-around the post will fine-tune and should hold a neutral elevator-setting. The rubber-band will hold the line against the handle-frame and keep it from un-spooling from the post, once neutral is set. This may help with "springy" synthetic-braid lines.. and should not be omitted in the assembly.
Wrapping the line alternately a few turns-around the post will fine-tune and should hold a neutral elevator-setting. The rubber-band will hold the line against the handle-frame and keep it from un-spooling from the post, once neutral is set. This may help with "springy" synthetic-braid lines.. and should not be omitted in the assembly.
Re: Guillows C/L handle
I am a collector of several Guillows kits so I have a bunch of these handles. I.m going to have to try the the Roddie Mod on them. Thanks for the tip
akjgardner- Diamond Member
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Posts : 1449
Join date : 2014-12-28
Age : 64
Location : Greensberg Indiana
Re: Guillows C/L handle
Good Mod. Roddie ! I have a few handles that are without this feature , i really should have handles and lines for each model but do like the convenience of only one after getting the lines adjusted !??
getback- Top Poster
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Posts : 10028
Join date : 2013-01-18
Age : 66
Location : julian , NC
Re: Guillows C/L handle
Joe and Eric, My Cox handles come with a center-post having a small hole drilled through it for the line to thread-through. This helps to keep the line from slipping. My retrofit-post doesn't employ that.. therefor the "up" and "down" sides of the line should be alternately-wrapped over each other.. "each-turn" around the post.. and a few times before setting neutral. Tug on both lines afterward to be sure it doesn't slip around the post. I used 2-56 threaded hardware.. but 4-40 screws/nuts are much easier to source.. and could be used.
It's important to include some type of sleeve for the screw. It should completely cover the screw-threads that would otherwise abrade any type of line used. I happened to have metal tubing of the ideal size.. but one "could" alternately trap the screw in the handle-frame using nuts on either side of the frame to establish a "post".. and use a piece of fuel-line between the inside-nut and flat-washer.
Here's an example of that type of screw-post..
The "outside" nut should still be secured by either double-nutting.. (3rd nut not shown) or by applying a drop of glue to keep it from loosening. The fuel-line sleeve may actually provide more anti-slip qualities to the line, than a hard-tube sleeve would.
Again.. check for any "slippage" of the line before using the handle. Without a post of some kind; I can't see how the Guillows handle could be used without the line slipping.
It's important to include some type of sleeve for the screw. It should completely cover the screw-threads that would otherwise abrade any type of line used. I happened to have metal tubing of the ideal size.. but one "could" alternately trap the screw in the handle-frame using nuts on either side of the frame to establish a "post".. and use a piece of fuel-line between the inside-nut and flat-washer.
Here's an example of that type of screw-post..
The "outside" nut should still be secured by either double-nutting.. (3rd nut not shown) or by applying a drop of glue to keep it from loosening. The fuel-line sleeve may actually provide more anti-slip qualities to the line, than a hard-tube sleeve would.
Again.. check for any "slippage" of the line before using the handle. Without a post of some kind; I can't see how the Guillows handle could be used without the line slipping.
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