Re: SIG Wonder build thread - ASP12 vs COX TD09

[TDbandit]

You'll enjoy that little bird man we have quite a few of them around at my RC field lol we like sticking .25's in em and talk about fast!

Also, you probably already know this but the standard TD .09 has SPI, that muffler might kill your power.
(Bandit)

[balogh]

Thanks Bandit

yes I know the muffler impact on SPI engines but it looks good and will hopefully keep most of the castor oil away from the cowl.
It is a new TD09 with some home made booster flutes in both bypasses that the previous owner added to it and I expect the boosters to partially compensate the rpm kill by the muffler.

[1/2A Nut]

If I recall the .15 size gaskets will work as cylinder shims on the TD .09 you can shim out the SPI
and run with one gasket for the glow plug to keep your compression up.

[balogh]

Thanks Brad good idea. I will check if Bernie or Matt has them on stock.

[1/2A Nut]

Hope it works ask for a measurement of the inside dia. of the gasket to check with your cylinder.
I imagine it will take at least two to 3 to remove the SPI.

[1/2A Nut]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-15-Tee-Dee-Mark-II-Special-Medallion-Sportsman-Olympic-Glow-Head-Gaskets-15-/371906310504?hash=item569757f168:g:2yQAAOSwutpZk3ll

Bernie sells them world wide shipping..

Cox 15 Tee Dee Mark II Special Medallion Sportsman Olympic Glow Head Gaskets

[balogh]

Thanks Brad for the info. Meanwhile the build project continues with the bolt-on wing connections at the leading and trailing edges..



ARF  well not quite there:

[roddie]

Looking "Wonder"ful Andras!

[balogh]

Thanks Roddie

I added one more pic with the powerplant in place..

[balogh]

That brown stain on the plans is my own blood (viewers' discretion is advised) thanks to my exercise with an exacto knife...



I will rename it "Bloody-Wonder"=Blunder

[getback]

András, Your plane is looking Great !! Can you tell me after putting the CF SQ. rod on the LE , when covering with the balsa sheeting did you have to add to it to cover the Carbon Fiber Rod ? Looks like there was an addition / and came out good .

[balogh]

Thanks Eric.

Indeed I added cover sheeting to the front sides of the carbon square and sanded it to follow the airfoil profile. (It was originally left bare after sheeting the wind and did not look good but the additional sheeting edges now cover the carbon leading edge.

The leading edge contour now is a bit moved ahead but it still fits the wing saddle contour..

[fredvon4]

Balogh is probably a step ahead of me on thinking this:

In the photo above with the engine fire wall on the nose, I would be filling the inside corners with triangle balsa pieces

[roddie]

I like the CF square-tube leading-edge. Smart idea!

Have you sourced sealer/paint for the fuse yet? Clear polyurethane aerosol sprays are pretty common in my locale under the "Minwax" name.



If your planning a "white" base-color.. there used to be aerosol spray-enamels formulated for touching-up kitchen appliances that was really tough stuff. It was labeled as "epoxy-enamel".. but I believe that it was actually an alkyd-enamel which in itself has a pretty high resistance to glow-fuel. Rust-Oleum aerosols "used to be" an alkyd-enamel and stated so on the label... but the formulas have changed with all the new different types of coatings that they offer these days. Some of them have very low resistance to glow-fuel.

Krylon company has an aerosol called "Rust Protector".. which is stated to be an alkyd-enamel and is available in colors.

I hope this was useful information Andy. There's been countless topics here on the forum regarding rattle-can finishes and their suitability/compatibility.

[balogh]

Balogh is probably a step ahead of me on thinking this:

In the photo above with the engine fire wall on the nose, I would be filling the inside corners with triangle balsa pieces

Yes Fred there are triangle fills there..

[balogh]

I like the CF square-tube leading-edge. Smart idea!

Have you sourced sealer/paint for the fuse yet? Clear polyurethane aerosol sprays are pretty common in my locale under the "Minwax" name.



If your planning a "white" base-color.. there used to be aerosol spray-enamels formulated for touching-up kitchen appliances that was really tough stuff. It was labeled as "epoxy-enamel".. but I believe that it was actually an alkyd-enamel which in itself has a pretty high resistance to glow-fuel. Rust-Oleum aerosols "used to be" an alkyd-enamel and stated so on the label... but the formulas have changed with all the new different types of coatings that they offer these days. Some of them have very low resistance to glow-fuel.

Krylon company has an aerosol called "Rust Protector".. which is stated to be an alkyd-enamel and is available in colors.

I hope this was useful information Andy. There's been countless topics here on the forum regarding rattle-can finishes and their suitability/compatibility.  

Thanks Roddie I am desperately trying many types...product names are different here..I found a varnish in a DIY shop that seems to resist fuel in my spray tests but this is not PUR based but a
water based stuff designed for wood furniture in outdoor use. My balsa samples kept the varnish intact after it cured and flushed in fuel.
It is made in Germany and the composition is not detailed.

[roddie]

FWIW... I've NEVER known anything made in Germany not to work well.. The water-based poly-U should also be "foam-friendly".. for consideration of future-builds. EPS foam is generally fuel-resistant.. but needs a sealer to keep it from getting dirty. The water-based polyurethane made by "Minwax" (Polycrylic) is "foam-safe" and reported to be non-yellowing.

[balogh]

Roddie,

yes you are right...maybe the only thing that did not work out for me in Germany was the Wiener Schnitzel, which is a bread crumbed deep fried veal cutlet originating from Austria, but every time I ate that in Germany I had the impression the chef missed the mandatory 15 000 miles oil change interval in the deep frying pan.

[balogh]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-15-Tee-Dee-Mark-II-Special-Medallion-Sportsman-Olympic-Glow-Head-Gaskets-15-/371906310504?hash=item569757f168:g:2yQAAOSwutpZk3ll

Bernie sells them world wide shipping..

Cox 15 Tee Dee Mark II Special Medallion Sportsman Olympic Glow Head Gaskets

Brad I checked with Bernie, the internal diameter of the 0.15 head shim is 15.2mm while the cylinder thread diameter on the TD09 is 17.3 mm... so unfortunately the head shim will not work out to de-SPI the 09

[1/2A Nut]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shim-Ring-washers-0-3mm-thick-Steel-din1624-3mm-to-30mm-ID-m3-to-m30-Various-ODs-/331863836462?var=540936403845&hash=item4d44a0472emggtK5U94I4JO_M_RMHxj5A

17mm ID x 24mm OD
Given the cuts for the threads you might be able to thread these on for shims.
Sells in packs of 4. /  0.3mm thin steel 1 would drop out a good bit of the SPI.

[balogh]

With a modern radio equipment you should be able to get down to around 20oz, or better. Especially as there is no landing gear or anything else that is heavy.

............

Looks like the all up weight will really stand around 600 grams i.e. 20 oz.  SIG puts it with even the lightest engine at 26oz.

[1/2A Nut]

You have how much Sq. In of wing?

My TD .09 Dart
31.5 inches 106 Sq. In. wing / 11.7 oz RTF


9.1 sq. in. per ounce which was ok for landings into the breeze
not so great down wind, I coast slow down wind at a crawl and tip stall it
if not careful. I think 10 sq. in. / oz should have been the minimum.

[balogh]

It is practically ready to fly. Empty weight without fuel is 550 grams i.e. about 19 oz.





Total wing area is 338 sq.inch according to SIG...maybe too light???

[Surfer_kris]

Looks great!
There is no such thing as too light plane in my experience, you should have unlimited vertical with that.

(if the wing profile is thin enough it will still track well in windy conditions)

A two-bladed prop might be safer though when there is no landing gear. Just kill the engine on the approach and land with the prop horizontal.

[1/2A Nut]

Yes will be a floater, Kris is right 2 blade prop in lieu of no landing gear.
Prop should be set so in glide mode the prop wind mills to the compression
of the cylinder so it is locked horizontal with the ground, good trick avoid snapping
props. You have a 19oz plane enough mass to snap props. Should be a floater
though once you get use to how it lands you may get away with a 3 blade prop.
What sort of power are you getting with that muffler and SPI?

Well done looks great, I hope you enjoy it very much greenie for you sir!!

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