Grab your torches and pitchforks!

Wow, looks like something I would have built when I was 12---whatever works!! Mark

Looks like an ingenious kid turned his originally non-engine powered Thimble Drome Champion into an engine powered prop rod. Looking at the Babe Bee, looks to have probably been done in the late 50s.

The way I look at it, if something was modified or "ruined" when it was fairly new, it's no where near as bad if someone modified or "ruined" an antique or collectible today.

Oh, it's still very cool and I'd have no problem displaying that as is on a shelf.

The thing sure has character!!! I like to imagine a kid cranking it up for a run across some ball field or parking lot!!!

You guys are too nice. I agree with Mark, time to get out the spanking machine.

That said, I would love to own it and keep it as is. Shows ingenuity and I am fascinated by it.

Bob

Looking closely it doesn’t appear to be anything that’s not fixable. Maybe it will go for a for a fair price.

Cribbs74 wrote:Looking closely it doesn’t appear to be anything that’s not fixable. Maybe it will go for a for a fair price.

I did not realize that it was for sale. Ebay?

rsv1cox wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:Looking closely it doesn’t appear to be anything that’s not fixable. Maybe it will go for a for a fair price.

I did not realize that it was for sale.  Ebay?

Oh I don’t know to be honest. Just looked like a seller pic. I assumed....and you know the saying about that!


Edit: Yeah it’s on Ebay....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183011938120

I'll let one of you guys bid on this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ray-Cox-Santa-Ana-CA-Thimble-Drome-Champion-custom-parts/183011938120?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D12%26asc%3D20140905073823%26meid%3D97e64778b00946ba837defdc35f909e0%26pid%3D100284%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D183011938120&_trksid=p5713.c100284.m3505

The Horrified Mark

I'm wondering, why does it have Bridal holes on the left side of the body, and no apparent engine or drive installation inside the chassis. Where is the original engine and drivetrain for this car?

Pretty sure they made push cars out of the same tooling that the driven cars used.

Good to see you on here Doug!

Looks like it's going down for the second time with no bidders.

$95.99 + $18.90 shipping is a bit much.

Jason's Cox icon adds a little flavor.



Pusher puller

Oops.........Come to Papa






As I mentioned, I was fascinated. Actually was afraid that I would be over bid.

Begs the question.  What now?

A. Leave as is?

B. Remove the engine assembly clean and reinstall?

C. Clean the whole thing risking damage to the decals?

D. Leave as is but spray with a clear preservative?

E.  Run it?

I would say more but have sent the rest of my head out for examination.  

Bob

I vote B and E. Have some fun with it! As long as the engine runs as a "pusher".. the car-body shouldn't get much fuel-spray on it.

roddie wrote:I vote B and E. Have some fun with it! As long as the engine runs as a "pusher".. the car-body shouldn't get much fuel-spray on it.

For SURE B & E !!!!! AND video of course !!!

B & E and then F, restore it. I can send a grill and brake lever. You do some fine restros.

Thanks guys, I'll tally up your votes and follow your recommendation.

Looks like the tether points are still intact, it would be fun to run it as is before doing anything else.  Sure can't hurt it if done properly.  There must be some guidance as to assembling the tether?  Length of the V points and length/geometry of the tether?  

My son is so into this kind of stuff and says "leave as is".  Guess maybe it's rubbing off but I find it hard to do.   He will have to smart phone video it running on a tether and upload.  I don't have a smart phone nor the smarts or the desire to operate one.  You really can't teach an old dog new tricks.....

At minimum, it looks like the engine is a first edition Babe Bee, but I will let the BB experts here determine that.  I do feel compelled to remove it and clean/rebuild prior to running.  But, I'm sure I could free it with just a little heat and Remoil.  Been there.

I appreciate your offer CB, but let's see where this goes.  Maybe, maybe.

Bob

Hope I’m not to late for the debate! I’d vote B&E also. Looks like it’d clean up nicely.

B&E. Run that bad boy!
Phil

Bob , B and E But do clean the engine so it will run GOOD !! Good luck on the configuration of the tether lines , we looked into that on a another thread and No one came up with the answer// but i think the front line is shorter than the rear or the other way ?? I got one i want to run if we can figure out the lines .

Thanks Eric, B&E it is.

 I have quite a few Cox .049 rebuild kits but I may just carefully free it and give it a try.  But I would think by the looks it's probably pretty much gunked up inside.  A worry, the spinner is badly damaged from an electric starter, hope that it did not wear the prop drive washer or case.  

Seems like there should be some guidance regarding the tether lines.  I have a couple of Cox Riviera models but they are straight line tethers, no round and rounds.  Guess I will just make an equal V about 12 inches long and maybe a 10' line unless someone chimes in with better information.  I have some parachute rigging cord/thread that should be about perfect.  I will have to construct some sort of a spinner/pivot.

Just for grins I questioned the seller as to any information he had regarding the model.  Told him we had discussion about it here on the CEF.  I don't expect much in return but in the past he has offered hobby related items.  If he's on the ball it should be here by Friday as Massachusetts is not that far away.  

Bob

I guarantee the reed will be glued to the tank with old castor. A 30 minute soak in denatured will have all that old castor dissolved.

I have several bridles but not one for this model, generally the bridle has one leg slightly longer than the other. I think the idea was to point nose of model slightly outward of the circle.
The cables I have are about 9 feet long for the Prop Rod.