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Post  rsv1cox Mon Jan 29, 2018 4:21 pm

crankbndr wrote:I have several bridles but not one for this model, generally the bridle has one leg slightly longer than the other. I think the idea was to point nose of model slightly outward of the circle.
The cables I have are about 9 feet long for the Prop Rod.

I was just watching a youtube video of a Prop Rod on a tether.  Wild little beast.  I would think this modified model would be much slower due to the weight factor.  

I was thinking a 10' line with a loop on both ends and let it find it's own sweet spot???

Yes, I will probably remove and clean it, but not too much on the exterior.  Patina is good..... Sad

Bob

Edit: I just picked up it's Enya ugly brother on ebay. Maybe I could mount in in the body and drive a set of wheels with it. Seems it would fit right in. Smile

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Post  getback Mon Jan 29, 2018 7:11 pm

crankbndr wrote:I have several bridles but not one for this model, generally the bridle has one leg slightly longer than the other. I think the idea was to point nose of model slightly outward of the circle.
The cables I have are about 9 feet long for the Prop Rod.
 How much? when i have it would you bee willing to turn one loose !??! Laughing  Grab your torches and pitchforks! - Page 2 Prop_r10
Grab your torches and pitchforks! - Page 2 Prop_r11
MAKE ME WANT TO FIX THE ENGINE MOUNT !! lol! Bob that ole engine an't gonna run without a Good cleaning, inside too new pu tube blow out the venture , send to me and i will do it for you if you needed, No crap !!  Wink we can DO IT , i bought mine to run not set !!
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Post  rsv1cox Tue Jan 30, 2018 10:44 am

Looks like you have a winner Eric, Air Force markings and all.  

Ok, I'll clean the engine well (inside) and we will race doing timed laps.  You will do yours in seconds, mine may take minutes.  Smile

I did not hear from the seller regards history of the little bugger, didn't really expect to.  Maybe he will only get four stars out of five....

Bob

EDIT ADD................Heard form the seller....SHE will get five stars out of five....Smile


Last edited by rsv1cox on Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  crankbndr Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:01 pm

The bridles and cables i have are in accessory kits and don't want the remove. I will post a photo with lengths and one can be made from any thin wire.
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Post  fredvon4 Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:32 pm

as kids we often got tether cars instead of airplanes for Christmas

PX usually had better lower prices and neat Holiday packaging that aught our young eyes better than the ubiquitous PT-19 trainer

we had most of the drag race type with parachutes etc...

pretty easy to run down the drive way

We struggled with most of the circle tether cars finding a very flat surface mostly cuz the drive ways were old and had expansion joints....of course we just shortened the string to smaller diameter... wow! talk about lap times.... damned car was a blinding blur.....grin

Dad took us a few time to watch real tether cars with .59 or .61 engines... by old guys that competed and were very serious in the sport...we never did it as a family cuz by the time Dad was trying desperately to feed 6 kids and on an Army pay check so home we went to try and get a .049 to 123Mph.... what a hoot
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Post  rsv1cox Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:54 am

I heard back from the seller

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear rsvmgb,

This car ? Can you link me to the thread ? I'd like to read it . And to be honest. I know absoutlety nothing about this car. I bought a box of cars at a yard sale and this was in it. I'm happy it's going to a good home.


- erikawesome  




Your previous message

Hello, This little Cox tether car has been the subject of much discussion on the Cox Engine Forum. Could you please tell me of any history of the car that you know of?

I am happy to have won your auction.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Put away your torches and pitchforks, sounds like a nice person.

I linked her to this thread.

Bob


Last edited by rsv1cox on Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  getback Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:02 am

Cool Bob I am on stand down now lol! Doug , that will bee great to get some length and bridle setup + i have plenty of small wire to make up to accommodate the PR . This Site Rocks!
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Post  getback Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:03 am

Removed dup post >


Last edited by getback on Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:04 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : removed for of two post.)
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Post  roddie Wed Jan 31, 2018 3:31 pm

Hi Bob! I thought I'd offer my thoughts on making a bridle and pylon. Maybe source some heavy-string.. like "Mason's line" and tie/connect one-length (12-18"?) to the two anchor-points on the car. You now have a loop-line that you can tie the main/longer line onto, somewhere around the middle of that loop-line. You should be able to slip the knot along the loop-line to trim where the model "points".. just like adjusting lead-out rake on a control-line model airplane. When you establish the best toe-in/toe-out for maximum-speed; take measurements of where the knot was set on the loop.. along with the loop-length. For example..... if your loop-line measured 15" between the body's anchor-points, the center-point would be 7.5". If the best speed was achieved with the model's nose "toe'd-in" 1/2".. then your 15" bridle would have a Front/Rear offset-ratio of 7.0"F/8.0"R... easily verified with a tape-measure.

Regarding a pylon (center-anchor for roundy-round..) Here's what I would look-around for. One 10# barbell weight.. one 10" (min.) square-piece of plywood (1/4"min. thickness), one 12" (min.) length of broomstick (or 3/4" dowel), one wood-screw (min. 1" length) and one 1" dia. split key-ring.

The broomstick/dowel is mounted (vertically) on-center to the plywood-square (base) using the wood-screw. The 10# barbell weight simply slips-over the broomstick/dowel.. and rests atop the plywood base. The long tether-line is tied to the key-ring.. and slipped-over the top of the broomstick/dowel to provide the bearing. This would allow for a fairly portable set-up.

If the weighted plywood base moves during operation.. it basically means that you did a really good job when you rebuilt the engine...  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  You can always increase the barbell-weight.

You will want to be sure that the wheel-axles are free-spinning/lubricated prior to any runs.

(Edit) Incidentally.. here's a drawing for a drag-strip tether. Chances are you have it.. or have seen it.. but I know that you have a couple of Buicks that would love to "run" again.. like they were meant to.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO-n1bjlUgI



Last edited by roddie on Wed Jan 31, 2018 5:27 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : drag tether for Cox Buicks..)
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Post  rsv1cox Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:23 pm

You read my mind roddie - "Why don't you just draw me a picture".  Smile

Wrong picture though for this application, but comes in handy if I ever run those Buicks.  That's a great way to stop the car at the end of its run.  Just bungee cord it and send it back to it's starting point.  I have run a couple of those straight liner cars, but I set them free on the driveway and let them just run into the grass.  

Your tips are helpful.  I was going to drive a pin into the driveway and pivot around that with some sort of a bearing.  A better idea is to use a solid concrete finishing block, drill a hole in it and construct a pylon per your recommendations. Saves me a hole in the asphalt.

Maybe I will remove the existing BBee and replace it with one of mine, run it, then put the original back on.  

Seller sent it priority mail.  Should be here tomorrow or Saturday.  Said she enjoyed the post.  

Bob
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Post  roddie Thu Feb 01, 2018 5:40 pm

Very cool Bob! Thumbs Up I hope that you keep the "gal" in the loop! What we do here is a pretty special thing.. I know I don't have to tell you that.
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Post  pkrankow Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:18 pm

Old brake rotor and a bolt? Or might that be too light.

Phil
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Post  rsv1cox Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:12 pm

pkrankow wrote:Old brake rotor and a bolt? Or might that be too light.

Phil

No, good idea, might hold it.

I have the old rotors from my MG Midget that I could use.  

Bob

Edit add: Just checked the tracking number. Oh goody,,,,,, Smile it should be here this afternoon. Rubber gloves and hazmat suit at the ready.
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Post  fredvon4 Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:30 pm

Bob

I have run many a roundy round tether car off a simple concrete nail in the drive way with some form of bearing to keep the string/wire from wearing and breaking.....

What I was alluding to earlier is with limited circle diameter the speeds and G forces be come insane

many of us have long but too narrow drive ways for a good full circle Teather car....

The car you have coming is best in a circle.... and will be a hoot to run just as you get it after you assure the engine will run reliably...with a good cleaning and refurb

I look forward to the maiden....

Hell if It screams around for ten laps at warp 10.9 and then launches outward from a broken line at 180 mph across the yard you and son will still be laughing you asses off and no real harm done


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Post  rsv1cox Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:55 pm

Thanks Fred,

I have about 50 feet of paved driveway between the house and the garage, little resistance and I'm thinking warp speed if this thing wasn't so darn heavy.   Might have to replace the 3 blade, looks rather used up.

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Gonna go git 'er now................

The Wast Viginian Bob
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Post  rsv1cox Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:33 pm

Wow, 15 degrees and wind chill south of that. 1/2 mile round trip to the mail box, took the car.

Two packages. One big the other not-so.

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Bigger and heavier than I thought. Nasty, I so want to dump the whole thing in a bucket of detergent and hot water. Not to worry, not yet....

Bob


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Post  getback Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:51 am

I see the FUN has arrived , man she does look alittle rough with close ups of the engine but i am sure runable . They are heavier than you would think , i know when i got mine , was what i was thinking and mine dont have a engine on it . I will have to go over to the school to run mine = maybe some kids will show up to watch the FUN ! This Site Rocks!
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Post  roddie Sat Feb 03, 2018 10:55 am

That's an early Babe Bee Bob. The large-diameter knob on the needle, thin-wall cylinder and the shape of the crankcase nose are indicators. You might want to check if it has a three-piece piston.

Replacing that worn prop is a good idea. It also looks to me like it's a tractor.. and facing rearward. Just remember; if using a "tractor".. the prop should face "forward".. just like on a conventional airplane application and you'll need to crank the engine "clockwise".. as if it had a L/H starter-spring on it. Am I making sense? It's reversed because the engine is facing rearward. Of course.. you could use a "pusher" prop if you had one.
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Post  Jason_WI Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:08 pm

It’s hard to tell but looks like lettering on the tank and the color if the backplate looks too dark for it to be a first issue babe bee. It’s probably a 58 or so.
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:21 pm

Yes, an early engine. It has Thimble Drome stamped on the case, but I forget if that is an early engine indicator or not or if the stamping came later?

The engine mount looks like something an adult would construct, well engineered and applied. But the red tape on the prop is something that looks like a kid did. The cage looks like a clothes hanger wrapped in fabric medical adhesive tape. Nicely formed and applied to the body, not an easy thing to do.

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Mismatched body screws, only two look original. I'm sure I have better replacements. I'm still debating if I should remove and clean the engine mount and engine, or leave the mount in place and just do the engine. The other option is running one of my other Babe Bees.

Bob
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Post  fredvon4 Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:44 pm

couple of thoughts

I do remember now a long ago post on the beautiful (when new) asphalt drive and parking...we did similar down hear but Texas extreme wx changes year to year caused real bad cracking and a lot effort annually to of fill cracks and over layer sealer. Last year I paid dearly to have it all re-topped with heavy tar and pea gravel... terrible idea as it is a lot like a typical Steel Mill cinder mix drive way now....

I suspect the Ugly roll cage is because it was NOT run on a tether.... so if you are going to not free run it lose that very ugly bit

Due to the weight and relativity wimpy prop drive I doubt it will go very amazingly fast... so the suggestion of an old heavy flywheel or big Truck disk brake with a welded on post and slip bearing will be easy for you to cobble together avoiding the Concrete nail in the pretty asphalt

Worst case as it speeds up the center plate may slide and drift a bit but will stay relatively centered...

Back to the concrete nail with some sort of do not eat the bridal bearing.... the asphalt will be very small and a quick dab of caulk gun crack filler will fill it toot sweet

Looking at the car with the one tether location up near the front wheels and rear prop drive...(that set up was for typical internal engine front drive) I suspect the danged thing will track to the inside instead of out .... will be a fun first maiden...I suspect... be prepared to find the better tether location a bit further back

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Post  rsv1cox Sat Feb 03, 2018 1:29 pm

Good point Fred, the balance point will be well aft with the hanged engine rather than it being located admidships.  Lot's of scuffing I would think if the bridle is not done right.
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Post  Marleysky Sat Feb 03, 2018 3:04 pm

Well you better plan on some Medium Speed Runs, if on a 10ft teather. This is the Actual speed of the Remco Shark I received for Christmas the year after my Dad and Uncle Planted my TD-3 Flying Circus!  Boy was I under-impressed!!  What a waste of batteries! Wink    
                     
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=J9c97cm4ZVI
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Feb 03, 2018 4:03 pm

Marleysky wrote:Well you better plan on some Medium Speed Runs, if on a 10ft teather. This is the Actual speed of the Remco Shark I received for Christmas the year after my Dad and Uncle Planted my TD-3 Flying Circus!  Boy was I under-impressed!!  What a waste of batteries! Wink    
                     
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=J9c97cm4ZVI

Smile 1 360 per hour. Smile

Bob
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Feb 03, 2018 4:14 pm

Ok, so which predates which, Thimble Drome stamped fuel tank or unstamped? I have always believed that the stamped fuel tank came first and was eliminated later for cost and/or faster production purposes.

And, it would seem that an unsecured loop on the tether connection to the bridle would result in finding the best position for a circular run. It's all wrapped up in higher math and well beyond me regarding which leg should be shorter or longer. Kelly Johnson would "cut and try."

Bob
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