Cox Engines Forum
You are not logged in! Please login or register! Guests are limited to posting in the "General Questions (Guest Posting Allowed)" section only. Becoming a member is fast, easy and FREE!


Log in

I forgot my password

Search
 
 

Display results as :
 


Rechercher Advanced Search

Latest topics
» I bet not many COX collectors have this..
by Mudhen Today at 10:24 am

» Accelerator accessory for .09
by getback Today at 9:21 am

» My NOS plane collection
by KingofCox Today at 9:20 am

» Lil Monster
by getback Today at 8:24 am

» GSCB Didn't see anyone I knew!
by Bill steklenski Today at 7:56 am

» Rare cox ??
by Bill steklenski Today at 7:44 am

» 1978 Cox Hobbies Catalogs
by Bill steklenski Today at 7:26 am

» Anyone have a 3D printer?
by Madguns Today at 2:49 am

» Chat box check-in
by Admin Yesterday at 10:12 pm

» Stuka timeline
by ticomareado Yesterday at 4:06 pm

Cox Engine of The Month
May-2018
Kim's

"War Dog hauls the 2M B.O.T. out of Uncle Wayne's backyard"



PAST WINNERS
Speed Contest 2018
CEF Traveling Engine

Win This Engine!
The Traveling Prop
Gallery


World of Aviation

S1 Ringmaster

Go down

S1 Ringmaster

Post  oldguy on Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:55 pm

Need opinions on the S1 ringmaster.  Would you think the Brodack S1 kit is better than the Sterling S1 kit?
Thanks jim


Last edited by oldguy on Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
avatar
oldguy
Gold Member
Gold Member

Posts : 156
Join date : 2015-12-10
Age : 64
Location : arizona

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  fredvon4 on Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:46 pm

RingNaster?

OK goofing on you

There is absolutely no good compelling reason to screw with the old Sterling kits and Iffy wood unless you absolutely must do 100% nostalgia build for your 50 year old burping fox .35
LOT of current Laser cut kits are so much better

Some think John Brodak's stuff is pretty good...others think a good kit from Pat Johnston or Eric Rule are the best.... Pat King has a lot of good RM variants to look into

A lot depends on what YOU are seeking to acomplish


so tell us more of your intend build and flying

I am a big fan of Pat Johnston's Laser kits and more modern engines like a OS .20 for power
avatar
fredvon4
Diamond Member
Diamond Member

Trusted Seller
Posts : 2361
Join date : 2011-08-26
Age : 62
Location : Lampasas Texas

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  oldguy on Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:55 pm

Well Ken I came across this. file:///C:/Users/jaysea/Desktop/Vintage%20Model%20Airplane%20Kits%20&%20Motors%20at%20The%20Best%20Things.html  Well can't get the link to work. They have full kit a Sterling kit for $75.
    I was just wondering, if the original kit was better or not.  I fly for fun as I have mentioned before. Just asking. And i see with the Brodak's kits, the  ribs are attached to the leading edge with a different method.
That's all.
jim
avatar
oldguy
Gold Member
Gold Member

Posts : 156
Join date : 2015-12-10
Age : 64
Location : arizona

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  Cribbs74 on Sat Jan 13, 2018 4:21 pm

I guess it depends on what you want out of the model. I have a Sterling kit plane that was built in the late 50’s and restored by me about 5 yrs ago now. It was my first full sized plane and it allowed me to begin to learn to fly the pattern. It took a beating to say the least, it is heavy and still tough as nails.

I say all that because depending on where you are it may serve you better to build a kit or.... build one from scratch as originally designed. Plans are out there. The Brodak kit is light with a built up leading edge. It will fly well, but not handle a serious crash.

Now that I can fly without crashing I would consider a Brodak.

Ron

avatar
Cribbs74
Moderator

Trusted Seller
Posts : 9713
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 44
Location : Tuttle, OK

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  oldguy on Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:27 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:I guess it depends on what you want out of the model. I have a Sterling kit plane that was built in the late 50’s and restored by me about 5 yrs ago now. It was my first full sized plane and it allowed me to begin to learn to fly the pattern. It took a beating to say the least, it is heavy and still tough as nails.

I say all that because depending on where you are it may serve you better to build a kit or.... build one from scratch as originally designed. Plans are out there. The Brodak kit is light with a built up leading edge. It will fly well, but not handle a serious crash.

Now that I can fly without crashing I would consider a Brodak.

Ron


I'm scratch building a r/m from the Sterling plans by Matt Kania 1951.  What I want from it is a lot  of fun flying times. I don't fly the pattern.  I want what I would think anyone would want, a plane that flies well and to have fun doing it. Airplane.
avatar
oldguy
Gold Member
Gold Member

Posts : 156
Join date : 2015-12-10
Age : 64
Location : arizona

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  Ken Cook on Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:54 pm

Jim, if you build the plane per plans, you will receive the enjoyment your seeking. I prefer the Sterling kit over the others mentioned. The main reasons for me is due to my engine choice which is the Fox .35. I have found this engine to be quite problematic with the others and the ARF variants. As I mentioned in one of my prior posts, substituting the doublers for thinner saves a good amount of weight. I like the Sterling kits for the solid leading and trailing edges. I remove the spar because it self destructs the wing on a mild impact. This piece of wood is known as the rib ripper. Removing it also saves further weight. When this plane takes a ground strike, the wing unfold on the biscuit that's holding the two halves together. The trailing edge joint separates and the rib ripper does it's job when it breaks every rib inside the wing. This piece of wood is not really a spar but rather a building jig for the wing. It allowed the ribs to slip onto it aligning them and it was not to be glued until you removed it from the building board. At this point if the wing required torsional straightening the wing was placed back onto the table, weighted and twisted as necessary by shimming the opposing corner and then glued . The main strength of the Ringmaster wing comes from the solid leading edge and trailing edge.

For me it becomes easier to build this style of structure in terms of time and straightness. I make my own leading edge stock and I buy aileron stock in 36" lengths for my trailing edges. I buy 2 1/2" wide stock and rip it down to the desired width. For making the dado joints in my leading edges, I place the leading edge on my table saw with a 100 tooth blade used for cutting plastics as it has a 3/32" kerf which is my rib stock width. I have a scribe mark etched onto the bed of the saw and once I cut the first one, I align the dado on my register and so forth and so forth to replicate equal distant dado spacings. I leave the first 12" of the leading edge stock solid from both inboard and outboard wings, in between ribs I use a core box bit and I hollow out the leading edges all the way out to the tips. Ken
avatar
Ken Cook
Diamond Member
Diamond Member

Posts : 2981
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  oldguy on Sat Jan 13, 2018 6:28 pm

Well I went ahead and ordered up some maple 1/2 x 1/2 from Brodak. I will be mounting a McCoy .35 on the nose of this R/M. I'm also debating with myself, whether to order a set of ribs or make myself. I have always made them myself but not for a .35 size plane. I will build per plans of the Sterling. I can't find where to buy a set of ribs that are of the Sterling design.
avatar
oldguy
Gold Member
Gold Member

Posts : 156
Join date : 2015-12-10
Age : 64
Location : arizona

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  Cribbs74 on Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:29 pm

oldguy wrote:
Cribbs74 wrote:I guess it depends on what you want out of the model. I have a Sterling kit plane that was built in the late 50’s and restored by me about 5 yrs ago now. It was my first full sized plane and it allowed me to begin to learn to fly the pattern. It took a beating to say the least, it is heavy and still tough as nails.

I say all that because depending on where you are it may serve you better to build a kit or.... build one from scratch as originally designed. Plans are out there. The Brodak kit is light with a built up leading edge. It will fly well, but not handle a serious crash.

Now that I can fly without crashing I would consider a Brodak.

Ron




I'm scratch building a r/m from the Sterling plans by Matt Kania 1951.  What I want from it is a lot  of fun flying times. I don't fly the pattern.  I want what I would think anyone would want, a plane that flies well and to have fun doing it. Airplane.

I probably should have worded that better. What I meant is...did you want a trainer or something a little more competitive. Going off of what you said then either one will serve you. Looks like you settled on the right one.

Ron
avatar
Cribbs74
Moderator

Trusted Seller
Posts : 9713
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 44
Location : Tuttle, OK

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  Ken Cook on Sun Jan 14, 2018 7:02 am

The Mccoy is a nice light engine for the Ring . Unfortunately, our club has strict rules and muffling these engines can prove to be highly problematic. Rather than cutout both doublers for the engine case as Sterling typically does, leaving the inboard doubler to cover over the case cutout can also assist in better engine runs as it stiffens the two bearers. If the case is protruding slightly past, shimming the engine bearers off of the fuse under the lugs with some quality aluminum stock will also be beneficial to your engine run as it will provide more of a footprint. The gear wire provided in those Sterling kits was very very good wire. This enabled them to use 3/32" wire, today's wire even K&S is quite soft and will bend, up the wire size to 1/8" and this will also fit the wheels without bushing them. Foam wheels can assist in alleviating nose weight. Brodak offers a nice set of foam wheels as does Dave Brown products. Dubro makes even a lighter set which is their micro sport wheels in 21/2", these wheels even designed for park flyers will take the abuse of glow.
avatar
Ken Cook
Diamond Member
Diamond Member

Posts : 2981
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  oldguy on Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:28 am

Ken Cook wrote:           The Mccoy is a nice light engine for the Ring . Unfortunately, our club has strict rules and muffling these engines can prove to be highly problematic. Rather than cutout both doublers for the engine case as Sterling typically does, leaving the inboard doubler to cover over the case cutout can also assist in better engine runs as it stiffens the two bearers. If the case is protruding slightly past, shimming the engine bearers off of the fuse under the lugs with some quality aluminum stock will also be beneficial to your engine run as it will provide more of a footprint. The gear wire provided in those Sterling kits was very very good wire. This enabled them to use 3/32" wire, today's wire even K&S is quite soft and will bend, up the wire size to 1/8" and this will also fit the wheels without bushing them. Foam wheels can assist in alleviating nose weight. Brodak offers a nice set of foam wheels as does Dave Brown products. Dubro makes even a lighter set which is their micro sport wheels in 21/2", these wheels even designed for park flyers will take the abuse of glow.

Thanks again for the advice, makes sense it should help stiffen the nose some.
avatar
oldguy
Gold Member
Gold Member

Posts : 156
Join date : 2015-12-10
Age : 64
Location : arizona

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Re: S1 Ringmaster

Post  Sponsored content


Sponsored content


Back to top Go down

Back to top

- Similar topics

 
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum