Out of ideas - Help :(

Have you tried hot glue? Not sure how well it will stick on the plastic in question, but it fills gaps really well and after cooling it is somewhat workable. You can also "build up" structures with it, just apply some, let it cool, apply some more, let cool and so on.

@Cribbs74 wrote:How about small wire nuts?

I had thought about that Ron, plastic cement used on metal to plastic works quite well as opposed to plastic wood.

The attaching screws come up through the bottom and hold the top piece in place, but the top piece is curved so the wire nut would have to be shimmed so not to distort. Top and bottom pylons must meet exactly in the middle so not to compress the two parts.

I hadn't thought about using a glue gun kari, a possibility but I will still need pylons.







The PO just drilled a hole in the top piece and passed a machine screw down through. I will patch that hole and use the original Cox self tappers.

Snow !? already ... anyway what a mess it is , this is some interesting looking stuff https://www.jbweld.com/products/plastic-bonder-syringe If it were me i would get it back as good as possible and run the crap out of it till your or its tired !! Did u get the trans-axle repaired ?

I have had good luck with the Loctite plastic binding epoxy. It does chemically fuse to the plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastic-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1363118/dp/B0044FBB8C

What about using a brass insert nut? They are knurled on the outside and are meant to be either molded into plastic or using a soldering iron to melt down into a plastic boss. This is what I used in the knobs for the reproduction Cox battery boxes.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IZ1RN0A?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Or a shorter version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IYWTCWW?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I have both sizes so if you need a few of each let me know.

Thanks Eric and Jason.

Plastic bonder, I must have been living under a rock, haven't heard of it before. Will try it. The brass inserts might work, a variation of Ron's blind nuts suggestion. I could cement into top part cut a wood dowel standoff and come up from the bottom with the machine screws. Head has to be small to fit in the opening.





Ya, snow/sleet. About 7 inches.

WOW 7" To early for that here , been cold and wet!!! 53f today 58f sat and sun.

Do you know the height and diameter of the boss? I could 3D print one out of red ABS and it could be fitted then glued in. Would look better than wood.

@Jason_WI wrote:Do you know the height and diameter of the boss? I could 3D print one out of red ABS and it could be fitted then glued in. Would look better than wood.

Thanks for the offer Jason.

This is what I have.  It wouldn't have to be exact as I would have to trim to fit vertically anyway.  I would need four.  Can you print a #2 hole in the post? or I could drill one.



My intention is to partially drill out each damaged base with a 1/4" drill bit, then insert the posts.

Bob

1/4” diameter x 5/8” tall with a .068” hole in the center to a depth of 1/2”.

@Jason_WI wrote:1/4” diameter x 5/8” tall with a .068” hole in the center to a depth of 1/2”.

The magic fix Jason.  That would work great and solve my main problem with this restoration.  Length should about right as some will fit down into the drilled out hole.  I can always trim to fit.

Two of the four would need a larger hole for the screw to fit through intact, but I can drill those out. Only the top two holes would be screwed into.

Bob

Ok I added one with a .090" clearance hole for #2 all the way through. No need to drill and keep center when its only a few mouse clicks to make a new part.

Hey Robert! Congrats. on the new W-196. I didn't read all the comments.. but your need for plastic screw-bosses.. and the correlation with the round-stock/plastic clothes-hangers for a possible fix, piqued my interest.

I'm almost certain that you or Mark have a machinist's drill-index containing fractional/letter/number drill-bits. If so; you should be able to make stand-offs from the clothes-hanger stock.

Using a vernier/caliper; take some random-measurements of the diameters of a few of the different round-stock/plastic clothes-hangers. If the stock is of consistent-diameter, you can then cut pieces to the required length.

Using your drill-press; clamp a wood-block for drilling a "pilot-hole" of the stock's diameter.. deep enough to support it for center-drilling a hole to accept your fastener. Put the cut-off piece into this bore.. and check for tightness. If loose; wrap tape around the O.D. and re-insert until snug/tight. You don't want the plastic-piece to "spin".. when drilling-out the center. Once you achieve this fit; you can then accurately center-drill holes with the correct drill-diameter for tapping the screw-threads.

Some thread-sizes to consider are; 4-40/5-40/6-32 machine-screw threads. 4-40 and 6-32 are common.. and readily available at most well-stocked hardware stores.

Since it appears you are having posts reproduced, I suggest.they be made with a boss that slips into the holes in the body. Make the shoulder back far enough to allow the new post to bottom out plus a bit. You can fine tune the male end to have the shoulder make good contact with the remained in the body.
Just a suggestion...hopefully not too late.

@944_Jim wrote:Since it appears you are having posts reproduced, I suggest.they be made with a boss that slips into the holes in the body. Make the shoulder back far enough to allow the new post to bottom out plus a bit. You can fine tune the male end to have the shoulder make good contact with the remained in the body.
Just a suggestion...hopefully not too late.

Exactly my plan Jim. I will know more when Jason's posts arrive.

But, I do not have much material in the car to work with as those areas are rather thin. Your idea of trimming the bottom of the post is a good idea as it will provide a greater contact area, but that is something I must do here as it will have to be custom fit.

And roddie, it's Jason to the rescue with his 3D posts. If I'm careful with the vertical alignment it should work.

@Jason_WI wrote:Ok I added one with a .090" clearance hole for #2 all the way through. No need to drill and keep center when its only a few mouse clicks to make a new part.

Thanks Jason, that will save me the trouble.

I sincerely appreciate your help.

Bob

@rsv1cox wrote:

And roddie, it's Jason to the rescue with his 3D posts.  If I'm careful with the vertical alignment it should work.  

That seems like your best option Robert. Kudos to Jason for stepping-up. I marvel at the capability of those 3D printers.. and the people who have and use them.

I liked 944jim's comments on getting a snug fit on the posts too! Good stuff! Best of luck with the surgery on the model.

Jason,
What are you modelling in?

TIA!

www.tinkercad.com

It’s free and online based so nothing to download or install.

Turns out my "new" Cox Mercedes needs help too.

I removed the back end to replace the windshield and found the driveshaft slumped on the floor. The tab on the differential's side suspension arm had broken off. Simple fix, just swap suspension sides as they are mirror images. But I elected to substitute one from my other car.









Complete now with windshield.

Ok so I added an 1/8” x 1/8” step on two of them. One with the hole all the way through and one solid. These are printed out of PETG which is similar to water bottle plastic.

The reason for so many is cooling between layers. If I just printed 4 they would be a molten blob.

I will print a set out of red PLA which is harder than PETG. I don’t have red ABS. I have black and white I can print out of.

That is so cool , Jason to the rescue !! That will make it much easier and look good to .

Wow. That's some serious purty restoration work. Have you ever thought about working in the Smithsonian?

Or the Federal Prison Bureau? I have a neighbor friend whose son is a warden in a Texas unit.