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Cox Engine of The Month
November-2023
1/2A Nut's

"TD .020 RC"

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Post  rsv1cox Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:31 am

4 hour crock pot boil etc. etc. etc.

Not half bad to start.

Silver Bee cleanup Fire_b27

Same procedure as my other Silver Bee only this time I elected not to remove the cylinder. Down side, I won't be able to reset the connecting rod, if it was needed, and I can't replace the tool marked prop drive washer. I'll live with it.

Krylon gold paint photographs darker than it really is.

Silver Bee cleanup Cox_si11

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All new parts. Didn't want to use the milar reed, I can never get them to spin under the clip. If I ever run it I will probably replace it with the original metal star.

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Never throw away old parts. Smile

Silver Bee cleanup Cox_si14






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Post  Levent Suberk Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:48 am

Very good work Very Happy

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Post  NEW222 Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:21 am

Just another thing of beauty. I didn't expect any less. Very Happy
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Post  ticomareado Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:04 pm

I wonder how the back plate paint will hold up to fuel. (especially the gray on the inside)
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Post  ticomareado Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:08 pm

With a small gear puller and an old socket head screw you can probably get that thrust plate off the crankshaft.
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Post  rsv1cox Sun Nov 25, 2018 2:23 pm

ticomareado wrote:I wonder how the back plate paint will hold up to fuel. (especially the gray on the inside)

The gray is sandblasted metal.

The gold paint is for show and tell, but I haven't subjected the others I have done to fuel. That is something I must do to answer my own question about it. I could spray it with Top Flights clear. Best approach if it ever becomes a runner is to just sandblast it again.

Yup, I have the tool to do just that regards the drive washer. Thanks for reminding me.

Bob
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Post  ticomareado Sun Nov 25, 2018 2:43 pm

I think the 1/4 crankcase etching sets yours apart as a rarity.
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Post  rsv1cox Sun Nov 25, 2018 2:54 pm

ticomareado wrote:I think the 1/4 crankcase etching sets yours apart as a rarity.

It doesn't show up well in pictures but apparent to the eye. Nicely formed 1/4 only with the open topped 4.

One reason why I didn't overly clean the case.

Bob
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Post  Mark Boesen Sun Nov 25, 2018 4:34 pm

Looks good Bob, you gonna restore the Firebaby?

Silver Bee cleanup 3-26-010
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Post  ticomareado Sun Nov 25, 2018 5:16 pm

When did production of Firebabies cease and Baby Bee thick snout crankcases begin?
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Post  Mark Boesen Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:54 pm

That's not original, the straight non-taper case came out appx. '71-'72 and i'm not sure of the Firebaby, when it went from balsa to plastic fuselages.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:30 pm

Has anyone considered powder coat for the backplates? Not sure if it would work because of the porosity, but it would make for a real nice fuel proof finish.
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Post  KariFS Mon Nov 26, 2018 12:58 am

I wonder if re-plating of the backplates would be possible Huh...

I remember at school, 7th or 8th grade I think, we copper-plated a nail or some other metal object. Copper sulfide (or something), electricity and probably something else was involved in the process... Copper would look nice as itself, but the more golden colour could be done with a really thin layer of gold. An old ring would be enough for a few dozen backplates.

Anyone have any idea what the original plating was?

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Post  rsv1cox Mon Nov 26, 2018 7:22 am

KariFS wrote:I wonder if re-plating of the backplates would be possible Huh...

I remember at school, 7th or 8th grade I think, we copper-plated a nail or some other metal object. Copper sulfide (or something), electricity and probably something else was involved in the process... Copper would look nice as itself, but the more golden colour could be done with a really thin layer of gold. An old ring would be enough for a few dozen backplates.

Anyone have any idea what the original plating was?


Hard to say, but it wasn't meant to be pretty.  Maybe Mudhen knows.  The backplate wasn't finished very well, no need to be really.

My painted examples sure are not factory, but my prejudicial observation is it's a lot more attractive.  

Silver Bee cleanup Cox_en13

A couple of my NIB engines, maybe not a true representation of how they came out of the factory 36 years ago due to fading.

Silver Bee cleanup Cox_en14

Silver Bee cleanup Cox_en15

I was hoping that Dannels/Sitter (Cox Model Engine Handbook) would provide information regarding the finish on the back plates, but while they picture the metal back plates virtually nothing about them is there, spending time on the "plastic" horseshoes and postage stamps instead. They do say that Cox used various types of plastic though and the he uses "Delrin" loosely as a descriptor.
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Post  KariFS Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:41 am

The paint does look good, definitely better than chipped/corroded original. The only minus is that it probably won't tolerate nitro, but for a display piece that is not critical. I like the way your Silver Bee turned out, very original look. I tend to "over-polish" mine, I guess it is the magpie within...

I am pretty sure that the backplates on those NIB engines would polish easily to the bright factory finish. The plating is very thin, so hand polish only with some very fine compound.

I was just thinking out loud about the plating, it would be a neat touch to a custom engine. Someone here polished a corroded backplate to bare zamak, it was like bright aluminum. That would be an ideal base for copper plating I think. Maybe even gold Money Toss Definitely not original look but very "bling".

I have also noticed that pretty much all the plastic backplates are referred to as "delrin". I think only the red postage stamp backplates are delrin (possibly white ones too) and the horseshoes are of some other plastic. Even the red horseshoe backplates "feel" like they are made of harder and more brittle material, similar to the plastic used for the Cox airplanes. Not sure, but having "modified" both types of backplates, I felt a difference. Postage stamp material is easier to cut, file, sand and polish compared to red horseshoe material.
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