The stuck broken Cox needle tip in the back plate - Got it!

Geez Robert... I admire your tenacity, when it comes to dealing with broken/seized/frozen/rusted/corroded/melted/jammed/wrecked/stripped/galled/played/clapped-out/abused/severed/smashed/crashed/dilapidated items. (did I leave anything out?)

That said; you're an inspiration to me.. and I know that you know that!

Way to go Bob!
If there’s a will, there’s a way.
Sorry you had to ruin the backplate, but the experience was worth it.
Maybe you can save it, with some JB weld like New says.

Your patience is admirable, I would have pounded it out with a ball-peen hammer a while ago.

Is the casting no-good now? Those vintage Zamac/Mazac (?) castings are preferred over the olefin (plastic) ones which are being produced currently.

I've never removed the NVA (threaded-insert) from a "tank" backplate. I guess I'm fortunate; in that the one's I have, are all in decent condition.. with the exception of one which has a malformed fuel-nipple..



The pot-metal backplates are also a much stronger radial engine-mounting than the newer (replacement) plastic ones. You can also utilize them as a "carburetor-only" back-plate... and forgo all the pesky leaks involved with the Bee-engines' 5-8cc tank-bowls.. and their associated sealing-problems.

You're probably right Bob, that needle had most likely snapped already when going in and over-tightened. No way to get it out with the insert in place.

I have a couple of junk backplates, have to try and see how the insert comes off.

Thanks for sharing again another learning experience

roddie wrote:Geez Robert...  I admire your tenacity, when it comes to dealing with broken/seized/frozen/rusted/corroded/melted/jammed/wrecked/stripped/galled/played/clapped-out/abused/severed/smashed/crashed/dilapidated items. (did I leave anything out?)  

That said; you're an inspiration to me.. and I know that you know that!  

Thanks roddie, I think you have about covered it.  

I gathered the parts together this morning and put them in a small plastic bag.  Maybe I can save it, maybe not.  It will be a learning experience.

Thanks to all for your support and comments.

Bob

You got it out well kind of like all of it do you think the back plate warped from the heat ? May sit it against a true tank and see .

This looks like a long needle

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-1-1875-Long-Needle-Valve-for-Gas-Powered-Engine-Vintage/362544590859?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks CB, bought it.

Bob

Like finding a needle in a haystack

crankbndr wrote:Like finding a needle in a haystack

Yes, I really do appreciate you thinking about me on this. Makes another one of those W-196 cars complete.

Bob

I have "eye-ball" noticed on some occasions when working on a batch of two or three Bees at a time that the NV inserts in some of the metal back plates seem to have been set at varying depths in the back plate. All the engines in the batch ran OK after a complete tear down and cleaning. Go figure.

I cleaned up the back plate and re set the insert this morning.











I cleaned the opening for the insert with wired pipe cleaners and the housing with metal cleaner then seated the insert with a vice then tapped it in flush with a tapping hammer. It bottoms out on the supporting ledge at the bottom keeping the hole in alignment with the orifice for the pickup tube.

Ran compressed air through it and air came out at all the proper places.

I think it will work, but I need to mount it on an engine to verify.

Good job. I was really wondering if it would be as easy as it appeared or was there something silly that we missed. Glad it appears to have worked out well. Will be waiting patiently for the test run.