Modelling clay - Got a better idea?

Its a 31 minute road trip from Capon Bridge to Winchester ( isn’t that one of your favorite rifles?)

How about some self-adhesive plastic material placed with the sticky side up?

Of course, if it is too sticky, the parts may break again when removed

Marleysky wrote:Its a 31 minute road trip from Capon Bridge to Winchester ( isn’t that one of your favorite rifles?)

Yes, the 94/22 especially.

Hobby Lobby, I visit frequently. Looks like I will have to make a trip.

Recently roddie did a post on graph lined paper graduated in one quarter inch. Rod and Kari took exception advocating the advantages of the metric system.

I thought of your "Fighting the Metric system every inch of the way."

Me too..........

Bob

KariFS wrote:How about some self-adhesive plastic material placed with the sticky side up?

Of course, if it is too sticky, the parts may break again when removed

Hi Kari,

Yeah, I need something two dimensional due to the depth variations of the struts and something that will release easily. I could use shims, but there are so many broken pieces to contend with.

The good news, I found the missing piece.

Bob

I picked up some of this stuff to mold small parts, haven't got around to actually doing anything with it,
but i think it'll work great, might be an option?

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS821US821&ei=A99qXMblNeP-jwSLtKbgCA&q=blue+stuff+mold&oq=Blue+Stuff+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.2.35i39l2j0i67j0l7.5233.6026..8422...0.0..0.113.872.10j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.3ufmxDdUBVQ

Pretty neat Mark, never heard of the stuff. If modelling clay doesn't work, I'm looking into it.

Wear gloves the peanut gallery says.

Bob

Try to put something between the parts and the clay. The clay oils will make any joint weak if contamination occurred. Maybe Saran Wrap would work. Or split some nitrile gloves as a stretchable liner.

rsv1cox wrote:Pretty neat Mark, never heard of the stuff.  If modelling clay doesn't work, I'm looking into it.  

Wear gloves the peanut gallery says.

Bob

i got the stuff thinking for repro'ing new parts?

I checked my suspicions tonight and it does look like the Cox copper reed will fit the Tornado engine, probably have to pull retainer ring and measure Aurora reed with Cox, but at worst case very sight trimming??

I looked at two of the Blue Stuff videos Mark and it sure works for small parts.  I don't know how it would do for the struts unless it could be laid perfectly flat.  I think Jason's printer is the solution.

I did not remove the Aurora's reed, too chicken.  I want to run it first before I mess anything up.  But it does look that the Cox reed would work.  

I got to thinking about Kari's proposal to use tape as a securing source.  I thought, double sided sticky tape on a raised surface buffered by wax paper might do in lieu of clay.  I didn't want to drive 60 miles round trip to get it either.  

Even with a securing source it's an effort to align all the parts.  I tried one as a test using a newly opened tube of Permatex CA which did fine on the first parts I glued but didn't on this one.  So I switched to Plastruct Weld which is curing now.  

The other strut is really smashed but it has the control line guides so I will have to fix it too, or Jason could have just molded two of the less damaged strut.





The three break strut turned out fine, the six break not so. Thinking........

rsv1cox wrote:I looked at two of the Blue Stuff videos Mark and it sure works for small parts.  I don't know how it would do for the struts unless it could be laid perfectly flat.

Another solution short of 3D printing is possibly using thin copper, aluminium, brass, tubing that just fit over, CA'd to surround and brace the broken vertical struts. May be even small diameter plastic stirring sticks might possibly work. Small diameter plastic straw may deform sufficiently to sleeve the verticals. Then paint assembly black.

If one isn't into 100% authentic factory look but a solution that would be reasonably attractive but representative, sort of a stand off appearance, I'm sure there is a workable solution out there.

I know there are more ways than one to skin a cat, just replaced the 30 YO electric fan motor on my bath round electric ceiling heater. Replaced with a later motor at half cost. Carefully measured and drill new mounting holes into the heater mount assembly pan as mount location changed on later models.

Given the fragility of the plastic strut structure, I gather that probably not many of these aircraft survived more than one flight.

Given the fragility of the plastic strut structure, I gather that probably not many of these aircraft survived more than one flight.


my initial thought before we see the shipping carnage...back when Bob was jazzed waiting on his new toy

fredvon4 wrote:Given the fragility of the plastic strut structure, I gather that probably not many of these aircraft survived more than one flight.


my initial thought before we see the shipping carnage...back when Bob was jazzed waiting on his new toy

Yes, My stated - This Aurora SE5A blows away all plastic model airplanes I have seen for detail and construction....but at a price.  It is fragile as evidenced by the amount of stress cracks I have found.

But the fuselage is mostly done and the wings are healing under all that weight.  Red tube Testors cement properly applied and allowed to cure works wonders.  







Eager to start on that undercarriage.  A springy thingy

Bob, you polished that rusty bucket engine into a gem. No doubt when you are done, it will be a nice display piece.

Given the cost of it back in its day, I imagine that the more well to do parents bought that for their kids. The poorer ones wound up buying something cheaper like like a Cox TD-1 or perhaps Piper Cub.

I've been following this thread.. and wish that I could offer a solution. Your aim I'm sure; will be to repair/replace the broken struts to display as original.. rather than have any structural integrity.

I bought some modelling clay a while back.. but can't remember where.. Maybe you can search by the UPC code?




also.. "wax-paper" may be the way to go, to avoid molding-contamination..??? (I wasn't sure if I was understanding that completely)

Incidentally.. "K & S" metals used to offer airfoil-shape brass tube-stock that would be a structural-alternative for wing-struts.. but you'd need to work-out a mounting/attachment-system.

I've had this one single piece for decades..




When I designed/built my 1/2A triplane.. I used 3/16" hardwood dowels for the wing-struts.



That was almost 30 years ago. Today you can buy packages of bamboo BBQ skewers in many different diameters.. for CHEAP MONEY.. and they're STRONG. Just some food for thought..

Thanks for the tips roddie. I have those bamboo skewers and they are strong and have used them in a couple of my builds. But I have faith in Jason's ability to print these struts if I do my part and provide him with viable examples.

Which with this one is beginning to be a problem.



I have learned that you should not apply Testors cement over previously repaired CA joints, doesn't hold. I may have to strip all the connections and start over. This type of rigid plastic does not take adhesives like other plastics.

Unfortunately the only way I was going to learn this was to "cut and try" Kelly Johnson style.

Bummer about the glue joins getting messed up.

Do you have something like "blu-tack" available around your area? It is kind of like modelling clay, but it is not so greasy and it is more sticky. Meant for hanging maps, posters and such temporarily. I would think if such a product still exists, you could get it from a convenience store or an office supply place.