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Post  roddie on Wed May 15, 2019 6:50 pm

getback wrote:O NO it would bee worth watching ! Just to see your reaction to the rubber leaving that wheel lol! Anyway i am with Rene contact or rubber cement you probably have some ? Old Bugger  

Laughing .. yea.. you're probably right! I haven't even watched the whole vid on the camera. The engine didn't start right up.. (I don't know why I figured it would.. Laughing Rolling Eyes ) It popped.. and sputtered repeatedly.. until that "big moment".. What?

Any-who... I like Rene's idea for bonding the tire to the wheel.. and will work toward that. Stay tuned..

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Post  roddie on Wed May 15, 2019 7:21 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Tether positioning is important roddie as I found out with my Roy Cox creation.  It has to be right to maintain a proper circle, to little toe in and it's coming toward the pivot, to much and you scuff tires.  Although much depends upon how you release it.

Probably all tied up in higher math, but I found mine through trial and error. I would try a 15' line and work outwards.

As always you get high points for imagination.

Hey Robert! I'm hoping that I have enough adjustability in the bridle where it's currently mounted. I suppose that I could add a rear-extension to the body.. and make an alternate bridle for mounting the rear-leg behind the engine.. Huh... That may be worth doing ahead of time. Options are good to have.

I'm keeping an eye-out for a barbell-weight (20#??) to serve as an anchor for a tether. A wooden-dowel/post would then be screwed to a plywood plate.. and the barbell-weight placed "over" the post. From there, I'll work-out a simple "arm" to fit around the post.. for the tether-line to connect to.

Thank you for believing in my imaginative creations..! Smile
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Post  Marleysky on Wed May 15, 2019 9:03 pm

roddie wrote:
rsv1cox wrote:Tether positioning is important roddie as I found out with my Roy Cox creation.  It has to be right to maintain a proper circle, to little toe in and it's coming toward the pivot, to much and you scuff tires.  Although much depends upon how you release it.

Probably all tied up in higher math, but I found mine through trial and error. I would try a 15' line and work outwards.

I'm keeping an eye-out for a barbell-weight (20#??) to serve as an anchor for a tether. A wooden-dowel/post would then be screwed to a plywood plate.. and the barbell-weight placed "over" the post. From there, I'll work-out a simple "arm" to fit around the post.. for the tether-line to connect to.

Thank you for believing in my imaginative creations..! Smile

Roddie, keep an eyeout for that barbell weight, but also keep a watchful eye out for discarded floor lamps. They usually have a heavy weight in the base, and the upright pole just threads off, and they have a electric insulated tube for the lamp wire which can be made to hold the thether string or wire on a washer and nut. Old Bugger
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Post  roddie on Mon May 20, 2019 5:56 pm

Marleysky wrote:

Roddie, keep an eyeout for that barbell weight, but also keep a watchful eye out for discarded floor lamps. They usually have a heavy weight in the base, and the upright pole just threads off, and they have a electric insulated tube for the lamp wire which can be made to hold the thether string or wire on a washer and nut. Old Bugger

Another great tip Rene.. Thank you! You and I should brainstorm together on a Cox engine powered "Pod-Racer"..


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Post  roddie on Mon May 20, 2019 6:22 pm

CEF member Marleysky (Rene) offered an idea for anchoring the tire onto the wheel that I'm using on the Rodd-E-Liminator.. Smile While I "do" have contact-cement somewhere.. I chose to try adhering the Butyl-rubber tire to the PVC wheel using some double-sided "film-tape" from my old remnant sign-shop stock. Rene's "method" for its' application however; was adopted..

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One half of the wheel-width set-up..

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I needed to re-paint the wheel after all the poking/prodding.. and tonight; I decided to add a 2nd tire-wrap.. although without any type of adhesive. The 2nd tire-wrap seemed very tight; when stretched-over the first. We shall see if it blows-off when the engine comes alive. The tires are made from Butyl-rubber "bicycle-tire inner-tube sections" from 26" tubes. I'd like to source a 27" inner-tube.. because it would be a smaller diameter.. and hence; a tighter-fit on my wheel...

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