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Cox Engine of The Month
September-2020
sosam117's

"Traded an electric charger for this "Complete" (original) Cox Thimble Drome Olympic .15 engine. Right corner is photo as received."



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Unidentified 1/2A Combat Plane - Page 2 Empty

Unidentified 1/2A Combat Plane

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Unidentified 1/2A Combat Plane - Page 2 Empty Re: Unidentified 1/2A Combat Plane

Post  Ken Cook on Mon Sep 14, 2020 4:46 pm

Most kits if that is a actual kit used very poor quality plywood. I only use 1/8" 5 ply which I purchase from Sig. Using blind nuts behind the firewall or nut plates is the best way to fasten the engine. Using good quality ply would also be helpful in assisting wood screws to hold. Whenever a firewall is constructed as your model and many others, a good practice is to wrap the perimeter of the firewall to nacelle with lightweight glass cloth and epoxy. I cut strips of glass cloth 3/4" wide and wrap it around overlapping the strip. If you use blind nuts, the glass will go over the holes for them. I fill the holes with clay and glass right over them. When dry, I poke a hole and the clay prevents epoxy from going into the threads.  Slow cure epoxy works exceptionally well for strengthening, I use 30 min for these kind of models. I just hit it with a heat gun just to thin the epoxy to saturate the glass.
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Post  TLAnderson on Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:25 pm

getback wrote:What  i have done before with fuel soaked engine mount holes (not saying U have ) Is to clean up holes good and wood glue some toothpicks in there to refill the holes with a harder wood . What size screws are you using ?

I'm using #3 screws. The biggest ones that will go thru the engine mounting lug holes. Be nice if #4s would work. They're easier to find in the hardware stores around here.
Drilling out the screw holes and glueing hardwood dowels in the holes might work. Thanks.
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Post  TLAnderson on Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:33 pm

Ken Cook wrote:Most kits if that is a actual kit used very poor quality plywood. I only use 1/8" 5 ply which I purchase from Sig. Using blind nuts behind the firewall or nut plates is the best way to fasten the engine. Using good quality ply would also be helpful in assisting wood screws to hold. Whenever a firewall is constructed as your model and many others, a good practice is to wrap the perimeter of the firewall to nacelle with lightweight glass cloth and epoxy. I cut strips of glass cloth 3/4" wide and wrap it around overlapping the strip. If you use blind nuts, the glass will go over the holes for them. I fill the holes with clay and glass right over them. When dry, I poke a hole and the clay prevents epoxy from going into the threads.  Slow cure epoxy works exceptionally well for strengthening, I use 30 min for these kind of models. I just hit it with a heat gun just to thin the epoxy to saturate the glass.

Thanks for the tips, Ken. Now I have some ideas to try out. Winter is coming so I'll have plenty of time to work on it pretty soon. Last night, I tried wicking some thin CA into the screw holes, and turning the screws in and out while it set up. Hope I can get the screws out next time I need to remove the engine. Huh...
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