Beam mounts

Okey dokey!  ...Should the plywood doublers be glued with epoxy too then?

I have personally used wood glue to glue up the beams into the balsa as well as gluing the plywood doublers in as well. No failures as of yet. I would not worry about fuelproof at this stage as you will be painting, and or finishing the plane anyways. But myself, I would either dope the engine and mounting areas, or brush on thinned epoxy when finishing the fuselage.

I echo NEW222 and use a hot hair dryer to flatten epoxy brush marks. 24 hour epoxy is best for this, but you can use 30 minute epoxy too.

Thanks for the tips guys! It may be short lived and never need fuelproofing!  ...Last C/l flight was in 1965-66?   Whereupon my Lil Satan cashed in the last of its lives. Built a Voodoo after that,but it never got flown.

Using a fuel-resistant adhesive to glue-in the hardwood engine-bearers is good idea, in my opinion. I would follow suit with plywood doublers. Let's picture this model lasting through an extended life of flying. If/when the finish degrades from fuel-exposure, you can be assured that the underlying construction is sound.

The late-generation wood glues are very good.. as long as they're not exposed to model-fuels/oils. There's a strong movement toward electric-powered flight; where there are no concerns of internal-combustion engine exhaust-wastes or fuel-soaking. Many model-flying clubs are now prohibiting model-IC engine use.. period. I'm not a proponent of that.

OhBee wrote:Thanks for the tips guys! It may be short lived and never need fuelproofing!  ...Last C/l flight was in 1965-66?   Whereupon my Lil Satan cashed in the last of its lives. Built a Voodoo after that,but it never got flown.

Oh Bee, I was born in 60. I can remember when my dad was an active C/L builder/flyer in the mid-60's.  He later-on built me a Goldberg 1/2A "Swordsman 18" and later.. a "Stuntman 23".. powered by COX Babe/Golden-Bee engines.

I have a CG Voodoo wing framed-up by my uncle.. many years ago.




A CEF member kindly sourced me with the templates needed to build the tail-booms/feathers and most all other parts. My wing is a spar, ribs, L/E and T/E. No tips.. no bellcrank platform.. no fuse parts.. but I can now fabricate them. I just haven't yet...    

Do you still have your Voodoo?

roddie wrote:The late-generation wood glues are very good.. as long as they're not exposed to model-fuels/oils. There's a strong movement toward electric-powered flight; where there are no concerns of internal-combustion engine exhaust-wastes or fuel-soaking. Many model-flying clubs are now prohibiting model-IC engine use.. period. I'm not a proponent of that.

"Strange times indeed."
Bob

Roddie...Do you really want to hear the story of my Voodoo? It pains me. I hauled that,a lil jumping bean and  a cox P-40  Flying tiger around  for decades . Several moves , 2 marraiges later these planes finally all got abandoned in the attic of an old outbuilding during an abrupt move AGAIN in 1987! Like I said Nothing had been flown since the 60's so I got tired of moving stuff I didn't use. Well after I retired ,I got reinterested....too late now eh? Meanwhile I had lived in Montana for 10 years.  How I wish I had them all now.  As it turns out I am now living very close to where I left them. The old outbuilding is still there...but is it possible they have spent the last 32 yrs. undiscovered?  I don't know who is living there now,but havn't figured out how to approach them to find out without feeling stupid!  How do you even initiate the conversation? They'd probably call the cops!  Would like some closure though,one way or the other!  

If I find anything in the attic that belongs to former residents, I throw it to trash

Go check it out OhBee!! You never Know till you do , and like me it will haunt you till you do/ I had forgot about some stuff i left in an attic at a rently form my first Marry go round , never have gone back > i had a box full of comic books from my childhood days , my Dad would let me get one everytime we got hair cuts ! Yes the Titebond 2 will bee fine like said you will need to fuel proof ! If you don't it WILL get soaked in quickly and make the wood very weak / mushy . Now that that's said , I would love to go to Montania to see the wide open wilderness But i know i couldn't take the cold!

every single time you do NOT ask a question....the answer is NO

I agree with everyone here who thinks that you should stop by there to inquire. Imagine how you'd feel if the models were still there..

I know how I'd feel..

Yep. I will also echo teh others opinions on this. Don't stop, you'll never know, and will probably regret it down the road. Me, I would have already been knocking!

Trying to get up the nerve...I'm not a real outgoing person, and don't have a way with words.

You know the address. Send a letter. Shy or not. “To whom it may concern” do a google search if you want the actual name.

To be brutally honest, if they are still there since 1987 they are probably sawdust. Bugs and heat/cold are wicked.

I would give it a shot, but don’t expect much. If it were me I would march up to the front door and just ask.

Lets see how complicated we can make THIS!.....what would be the proper hardware to use mounting an engine to a beam mount?.....not that I'll find anything in this worthless town! Can't even find any slow cure 2 part epoxy to glue the beams in! So I have gotten no further than step one on my kit...hingeing the elevator.

Ideally, I like to personally use a machine screw on the engine side and a blind nut on the other side of the plywood doublers. However, if the blind nuts are unavailable, I use machine screw on engine side and washer / lock washer / nut on the other side. Sorry if I missed the engine size, but most I believe are 4-40 or 6-32 thread pitch. I have also used 8-32 pitch screws on an engine where the previous owner drilled out larger for them.

What kind of a size is a 4  or 6 sized screw? I thought they were sized in fractions of an inch ? I'm mounting TD'S ,  .15 OS  engines ,and .35 Enyas. All with undisturbed  engine bearers. No such thing as a decent hardware store around here anymore either.

And each of those engines you indicated will require its own size hardware...Cox .049s take 2-56 machine screws through the engine tabs and into blind nuts on the bearers or plywood. And that is because the appropriate 3-48 hardware is too tough to get.

In a pinch, #2 wood screws into plywood or bearers...again for Cox .049.

The beauty of 2-56 is the smaller diameter which gives a looser fit, and a bit more relaxed install. The extra room around the hardware allows for a bit of fudge factor.

The same 2-56 screw/blindnut hardware also held Norvels from .061-.074.

They mean respectively:
4-40 - size 4 screw with 40 threads per inch (TPI)
6-32 - size 6 screw with 32 threads per inch (TPI)
8-32 - size 8 screw with 32 threads per inch (TPI)

A #10 screw is 3/16". Hope this helps or makes any sense.