Loose Connecting Rod .049

Thanks Andras
Just someone had told me doable.

Hoped to fix soon.

I'll see about ordering.

Darren

Iceberg wrote:... loose con rod slightly at TDC they slightly move...

Hey, Ice.
Depending on your perception of "slightly," it may be okay to just use them. The only time I have seen what I considered excessive slop is pretty soon after a new one breaks in, and even then, after using the tool, all of the play shouldn't be completely eliminated.

After a time, the retaining cup becomes work hardened, making it difficult to tighten up any more. That's when it takes too much impact to tighten without mushrooming the crown. Unless you think it's in real danger of pounding the ball through the top, I would opt to leave it alone. After the first post break-in reset, I've had bad luck trying to tighten older ones.
Rusty

Hi Rusty

Normally I have done that too just leave it alone however now that I'm getting to the bottom of all possible parts that MIGHT work some are pretty...... UGLY. One I was attempting to use last night was pretty sloppy. Seemed in need of a tighten. A super skilled rebuilder a few years ago said you can tighten with a screwdriver with the right style so I thought maybe the experience might have the simple ABC of doing it with a screwdriver. However might not be the case.

My .15 has a wrist pin wow what an improvement over the pressed ball socket. Too bad they all don't have that and even a ball bearing on the crankpin. Or at least a press in sleeve.

Anyhow thank you very much!
Ice

Iceberg wrote:Hi Rusty

Normally I have done that too just leave it alone however now that I'm getting to the bottom of all possible parts that MIGHT work some are pretty...... UGLY. One I was attempting to use last night was pretty sloppy. Seemed in need of a tighten. A super skilled rebuilder a few years ago said you can tighten with a screwdriver with the right style so I thought maybe the experience might have the simple ABC of doing it with a screwdriver. However might not be the case.

My .15 has a wrist pin wow what an improvement over the pressed ball socket. Too bad they all don't have that and even a ball bearing on the crankpin. Or at least a press in sleeve.

Anyhow thank you very much!
Ice

Iceberg: I'm having the same problem with my new Cox .010. The piston con-rod is really loose in the piston. Due to the high cost of the .010 I hesitate to try anything I would normally try on an old .049 engine if I didn't have the con-rod piston resetting tool.
   My friend in New Zealand made a tool for my Atwood .049 engines for me, but that doesn't help me here.  

Does anyone with a Cox .010 reset tool live near Southern California? 92027? I would be willing to send my piston, and cylinder, to you and pay postage both ways and some fee if you would try to reset my piston. I say try because I know it doesn't work 100% of the time.


my new Cox .010

please PM me.
    DesperateUnHappyDad

Happydad I am not an agent of Bernie but buying the tool from COX International in Canada may be cheaper and quicker solution - let alone the fact you will have your own tool - than sending your piston to someone and pay return postage...

https://coxengines.ca/cox-.010-piston-reset-tool.html

I certainly wouldn't be trying any means of tightening the rod other than using the correct tool. Your screwdriver trick makes me cringe. Running an engine with a little slop will do far less damage that the screwdriver. Even if undamaged, I can't see how it could be effective.

I made my own reset tool from drill rod/tool steel. Just used a spot drill to give a 90 degree countersink, with a hole a bit bigger than the rod and cut a slot for the rod on the side.

dont try to punch wit flat screwdriver y get 1 wit that method not so good after if use right tool now bal soket in piston is deform piston wil not spin on conrod like it use to. now al 4 punch mark on both part size piston litle and very hard to set corect polishing inside bal soket is a pain it nead corect tool is posible to convert right screwdriver wit round tip for very litle nut inside nead modification plus slot for con rod don try if not confortable wit machinist tool just buy corect tool save engine life non corect reset can damage lower part of conectingrod and crank pin to. bad stuf u dont want to hapen

not sur is mabe bether screwdriver is wat y tink can work

that 1 fit inside .020 piston y dont want to atempt my self modify tool to risky tink can end very bad

Well as usual have received some great suggestions. I have NEVER used a screwdriver to fix a ball. However an ace rebuilder who is unavailable at the moment told me he can do it. Well likley he can but after all the comments will not try with anything but the right tool.

Many Thanks!
Keep Flying
Ice

Happy Dad,
If you haven't already, I would take Balogh's advice and buy an .010 reset tool from Bernie or Matt for around $12.95.
I have one that, if Atlanta was near Escondido, I'd drive over and lend it to you !!! I love your part of Southern California!!!!
Otherwise you stand a 50/50 chance of USPS "can't find It" syndrome ( my experience) with a very hard to find and expensive small part.
My age and pedigree may be near yours and I understand the need to save where you can.
Peace of mind with these little gems is well worth the money..
Steve..

If you are not going to run the engine I wouldn't even mess with resetting the piston. Out of my small collection of .010's I reset the .010 traveling engine before it left. Possibly one or two others but that's it. The rest are just cleaned up with new plastic tanks and carb bodies.

99.9% of .010 engines ever made are shelf queens and more than likely the person you sell it to it will be a shelf queen for them as well.

The piston/cylinder sets are unobtamnium for the .010 engine. One bad strike with the reset tool and its all over with.

Jason_WI wrote:If you are not going to run the engine I wouldn't even mess with resetting the piston. Out of my small collection of .010's I reset the .010 traveling engine before it left. Possibly one or two others but that's it. The rest are just cleaned up with new plastic tanks and carb bodies.

99.9% of .010 engines ever made are shelf queens and more than likely the person you sell it to it will be a shelf queen for them as well.

The piston/cylinder sets are unobtamnium for the .010 engine. One bad strike with the reset tool and its all over with.

Thanks for the advice. I always clean and run any engine I resell. Always. I may try to make a reset tool, but how do you keep the piston head from mushrooming? That is my biggest fear.

Happydad

aspeed wrote:I made my own reset tool from drill rod/tool steel.  Just used a spot drill to give a 90 degree countersink, with a hole a bit bigger than the rod and cut a slot for the rod on the side.

I actually made a reset tool for wenmac-Atwood .049 engines and it worked. Later a friend in New Zealand made me the proper set with the piece that holds the piston head. He has gone to the big flying field in the sky now. I guess, since he hasn’t answered email in more than 5 years.

Thanks for the advice.

Happydad

I’ve reset plenty of ball sockets from .010-.15 and have yet to damage a piston. As long as the tool is used correctly nothing should happen apart from a proper reset. Another thing to consider is using a proper surface for the anvil and what size hammer you use.

Cribbs74 wrote:I’ve reset plenty of ball sockets from .010-.15 and have yet to damage a piston.  As long as the tool is used correctly nothing should happen apart from a proper reset. Another thing to consider is using a proper surface for the anvil and what size hammer you use.

I agree.  Check your PM box from me.

Happydad

Ended up ordering the .010 reset tool and other parts from Matt. He was out of the .020 reset tool.  Thanks for all the advice. I don’t get too much time to work on my toys any more. Too many things around the house have been leaking or breaking.

Happydad

I use any handy machined surface as an anvil. The ways of my lathe is very flat, and a couple vises have a nice flat machined surface.