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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:36 am

This may have been covered before except I can't find it. I assume there is no real answer to this question as there are so many variables.

How long have your engines lasted? That is before you needed new cylinders/pistons cranks etc.

The reason I ask is because some of my engines have nothing in the way of spares. Especially my .010 and .15's

I want to use these engines as long as I have breath in my lungs. And without spare wear items I wonder if that is possible.
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Post  RknRusty on Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:51 am

I still have decent running Babe Bees that I've flown on and off since the 1960s. I used Cox Blue-can fuel until I discovered the Red-can racing fuel in the '70s. Some of the engine components have gotten mixed up, but they all still run just fine.

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Post  SuperDave on Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:12 am

Ron:

I've accumlated a fair stock of new OEM parts for my engines: gaskets, spare glos, screws, reeds, Cox wrenches etc. all of which will keep them running for a long time to come. As I use those parts to mainain my engines I replace them when I run low on spares. Matter of fact I have an order in with Bernie right now.

After I actually run my engines I always apply a "short snort" of Hobbico After-Run oil in the intake then flip the engine over a few times to distribute the oil in the crankcase.
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Post  nitroairplane on Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:22 am

Ron it all depends on you!
I have a really really used pee wee from the late 50's it is my best runner I also have a barely used mid 90's pee wee with no compression and a lot of slop.
The difference in the two?
One guy used castor oil based fuel the other used cool power.
Pitty because the late pee wee looks stunning!
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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:58 am

nitroairplane wrote:Ron it all depends on you!
I have a really really used pee wee from the late 50's it is my best runner I also have a barely used mid 90's pee wee with no compression and a lot of slop.
The difference in the two?
One guy used castor oil based fuel the other used cool power.
Pitty because the late pee wee looks stunning!
Indra

The good thing with .020 is that you can still get em cheap and the cylinders are swappable between Tee Dee and pee wee.

The .010 is not easy to find spares for. And most folks don't want to sell spares who have them. I can't blame them either!
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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:02 pm

SuperDave wrote:Ron:

I've accumlated a fair stock of new OEM parts for my engines: gaskets, spare glos, screws, reeds, Cox wrenches etc. all of which will keep them running for a long time to come. As I use those parts to mainain my engines I replace them when I run low on spares. Matter of fact I have an order in with Bernie right now.

After I actually run my engines I always apply a "short snort" of Hobbico After-Run oil in the intake then flip the engine over a few times to distribute the oil in the crankcase.

Dave,

I too have spares for the common displacements it's the little and big ones that are hard to get spares for.

I am kind of OCD when it comes to IC engines of any sort. Usually when I run em afterwards they receive a good breakdown and cleaning.
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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:04 pm

RknRusty wrote:I still have decent running Babe Bees that I've flown on and off since the 1960s. I used Cox Blue-can fuel until I discovered the Red-can racing fuel in the '70s. Some of the engine components have gotten mixed up, but they all still run just fine.

Thanks Rusty,

I figured good fuel plays a big role in longevity.

Also good to hear you have some old ones that still perform!
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Post  PV Pilot on Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:46 pm

Somewhat off-topic but,,I still have a OS 12 that has gallons and gallons of fuel thru it. I stopped counting at 17 gallons. Bought it in 95 and it still runs like new. I had used Afterburn after run oil (old formula) after each running/day.

After loosing/ruining some expensive italian race motors($450 per), I am a advocate of after run oil,,applied liberally. I know these are fairly inexpensive Cox motors but I still don't want one to fail due to my lack of care.
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Post  dankar04 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:46 pm

As covered your engine will live if you take care of it. Good fuel and CASTOR oil is most important. Keep them clean and don't use to small a prop. IF you use RC cool aid you will apy dearly for this. Sig sells good fuel an quart sized bottles don't require haz. mat charges. Some RC fuel is ok ie: Powemaster/Morgan but add CASTOR. Plus 25% nitro helps cool them off and give you power. Heat kills these engine as muffler etc. Nitro helps cool them off beside the need boost. They were designed to run flat out. Some may disagree and thats fine. Nitro/castor/clean/ good fuel delivery system and your good to go. Old rule don't fly what you are afraid to lose. If you are careful then enjoy your little jems as they were made to be used.
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Post  nitroairplane on Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:09 pm

dankar04 wrote:As covered your engine will live if you take care of it. Good fuel and CASTOR oil is most important. Keep them clean and don't use to small a prop. IF you use RC cool aid you will apy dearly for this. Sig sells good fuel an quart sized bottles don't require haz. mat charges. Some RC fuel is ok ie: Powemaster/Morgan but add CASTOR. Plus 25% nitro helps cool them off and give you power. Heat kills these engine as muffler etc. Nitro helps cool them off beside the need boost. They were designed to run flat out. Some may disagree and thats fine. Nitro/castor/clean/ good fuel delivery system and your good to go. Old rule don't fly what you are afraid to lose. If you are careful then enjoy your little jems as they were made to be used.
Cheers,Dan Football Play
Very well said!
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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:43 pm

dankar04 wrote:As covered your engine will live if you take care of it. Good fuel and CASTOR oil is most important. Keep them clean and don't use to small a prop. IF you use RC cool aid you will apy dearly for this. Sig sells good fuel an quart sized bottles don't require haz. mat charges. Some RC fuel is ok ie: Powemaster/Morgan but add CASTOR. Plus 25% nitro helps cool them off and give you power. Heat kills these engine as muffler etc. Nitro helps cool them off beside the need boost. They were designed to run flat out. Some may disagree and thats fine. Nitro/castor/clean/ good fuel delivery system and your good to go. Old rule don't fly what you are afraid to lose. If you are careful then enjoy your little jems as they were made to be used.
Cheers,Dan Football Play

Thanks Dan,

I am not afraid to use them, just don't want to lose them.......

I was aware of the importance of castor but, I had no idea that nitro kept them cooler. I don't use a muffler cause it kills power on most my engines. To date I have only used SIG champion and Cox fuel. So I guess I got lucky there.

I have read in some of the old test articles posted here from time to time that higher Nitro content is harder on the glow filament. Is this true? If so what would be a good compromise? IE cool operation vs glowhead longevity.

Ron
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Post  microflitedude on Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:10 pm

cribbs74 wrote:
dankar04 wrote:As covered your engine will live if you take care of it. Good fuel and CASTOR oil is most important. Keep them clean and don't use to small a prop. IF you use RC cool aid you will apy dearly for this. Sig sells good fuel an quart sized bottles don't require haz. mat charges. Some RC fuel is ok ie: Powemaster/Morgan but add CASTOR. Plus 25% nitro helps cool them off and give you power. Heat kills these engine as muffler etc. Nitro helps cool them off beside the need boost. They were designed to run flat out. Some may disagree and thats fine. Nitro/castor/clean/ good fuel delivery system and your good to go. Old rule don't fly what you are afraid to lose. If you are careful then enjoy your little jems as they were made to be used.
Cheers,Dan Football Play

Thanks Dan,

I am not afraid to use them, just don't want to lose them.......

I was aware of the importance of castor but, I had no idea that nitro kept them cooler. I don't use a muffler cause it kills power on most my engines. To date I have only used SIG champion and Cox fuel. So I guess I got lucky there.

I have read in some of the old test articles posted here from time to time that higher Nitro content is harder on the glow filament. Is this true? If so what would be a good compromise? IE cool operation vs glowhead longevity.

Ron

Higher nitro (30+ %) will burn the head quicker. I read it also wears the engine quicker. I think 25% is a good compromise.
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Post  dankar04 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:37 pm

OK, 25% nitro use two head gaskets. I do not use more nitro than 25%. Simple solution is use straight castor 22% or use less nito with a mix 50/50 castor/sync. Use after run oil and yes auto tranny fuild is fine. Marvel air tool oil works dandy. I will not put a 6/3 prop on any 1/2A Cox engine. 5/3 for me and have stash of Tornado 5/3's that make them sing. Cox gray are good and blacks ok. I know some may rebuke this and thats fine. To each his own but I am an engine man not just with Cox. From .010 to .80 size. Cox/Fox/Cyclon/Fora/OPS/YS/OS/Veco/Johnson/K&B/Atwood/Holland Hornet/PAW/Elfin/Webra/Norvel/Uckham/Jett/OK Cub/McCoy/O&R/Saito/Enya and sure several others. Most have seen flight or at least tested.
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Post  microflitedude on Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:50 pm

Transmission fluid for after-run oil? Why not 6x3 props?

I use GlowPlugBoy 24% nitro, 17% all castor. I think I may need to add some, or try the oily Sig.
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Post  RknRusty on Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:12 pm

I like the Glowplugboy fuel the best. It runs more smoothly in my reedies than SIG. 1.3 ounces of castor added to a quart of GPB fuel brings it up to 20%. The 17% seems to work fine for me.

Here's what the maker of Glowplug boy wrote to me:
Why is my formula 24/17? I wish I could say I thought of this magical ratio, but I didn't. This formula dates back to the 50's, when Cox engines were becoming popular. Cox, OK Cub, Duke Fox, and Andersen used this formula or one very close to it. It's hard to improve on perfection! I believe they all arrived at the 17% lube ratio because castor oil protects like none other, and less can be used in the blend and still protect the engine. Interestingly, when Cox switched to synthetic oils to save production costs, their engines started to burn up with regularity.
I use Klotz "Benol" racing castor for my all castor blends, which is a fortified racing castor oil, better than AAA castor. You can add AAA to your Rocket Power fuel as you suggest, or go over to the drug store and buy some laxitive castor oil.... it is slightly more refined, but make sure it doesn't have any sugar in it... not good. OR, you can buy a pint of Klotz Benol from yours truly from my website: www.gcbmrc.com Paypal accepted, or call with a credit card.
I am happy to make custom blends, but the minimum order is four quarts. Your 20% lube package would be the same price: $10 a quart.

Kind regards,
Mike McGraw aka glowplugboy
GCBM R/C Enterprises
Houston, Texas
281-844-5431

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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:48 pm

microflitedude wrote:Transmission fluid for after-run oil? Why not 6x3 props?

I use GlowPlugBoy 24% nitro, 17% all castor. I think I may need to add some, or try the oily Sig.

I suppose any type of after run oil is used for the sole purpose of anti rusting properties and to keep it from becoming gummed over a period of storage.
So transmission fluid is as good as any. Most of my original COX manuals say to lube the engine with 10W motor oil after running it.

I assume he doesn't like the 6x3 props due to the extra heat produced.
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Post  microflitedude on Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:30 pm

cribbs74 wrote:

I assume he doesn't like the 6x3 props due to the extra heat produced.

I suppose he doesn't fly RC then. Smile

Never used after-run oil, I'll start now with tranny fluid.

My first quart of fuel is almost gone... need to stop buying engines and save up for their food. Very Happy On the next quart i will do as Rusty suggested, and bring the castor percentage up to 20%. I just got an .010, and I want it to have a long life as well.
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