Engine mount

There is some space between the engine and the beams. Was thinking about a couple of thin hardwood strips epoxied in to take up the space?

That would definitely help relieve the lateral load on the bolts..

You have sufficient material to hold the bolts. I would use blind nuts opposed to using nuts. Rough em up and epoxy them into the nose. The holes are drilled. Anything after those holes is meaningless. In fact I've found engines that are fit tight into the opening have a tendency to cause unwanted vibrations requiring the bearers and doublers needing to be cut back. Due to the fact that your mounting a TD profile, adding a 3/32" or 1/8" shim of aluminum under your engine lug would also offer a larger footprint not too mention it will assist in making your tank work correctly.

There's really not enough meat there for blind nuts!.....ya ..the fuel tank is another conundrum. 3/8 oz big enough for 2-3 mn. with a TD?...Its all I got.

@OhBee wrote:There is some space between the engine and the beams. Was thinking about a couple of thin hardwood strips epoxied in to take up the space

I would do it, if only to just not have to think about it.

I see "wallhanger" in it's future!

C'mon OB I want to see this fly..you do not hang a crispy TeeDee049 on the wall..

[quote="balogh"]C'mon OB I want to see this fly..you do not hang a crispy TeeDee049 on the wall.. [/quote
 Well,thats better than in a box  ! ...Isn't it?    For a "simple" kit,  this whole thing has been a pain!  Making do with what I can scrounge is getting tiresome. Not to mention the long lost skill set.

Shim it a little large both sides, sand/file down carefully to fit. Epoxy in. Touch up with your paint which looks very good. What is it?

Good luck.

Bob

Bob...the paint is Rustoleum ultracover...Key Lime. Over a white primer..topped wth 2 coats of Krylon satin polyurethane. At least this time everything was compatible! Unlike the fiasco I had painting the Wido Satan.

re read Ken Cooks advice then re read it again....

There is plenty of meat for the small nut plates...more than 80% will be backed to wood...the dinky part in open air can be ignored or filed flush

The opening NOT touching the sides of the crankcase under the mounting lugs is irrelevant and preferable so you can float the engine while establishing up or down thrust

Use two steel, aluminum, or plastic 3/32" or 1/8" shim plates under each lug. This will move the engine out board a bit to better be in line with fuel tank center....these shims can be flat or slight angle to give in/out thrust...home made or Brodak/ Lee Machine shop

Hey Fred!...thanks for the tips!.....recognize that engine?

What Fred said ^^

Yes I do...sort of looks like the bottom of one of the many TeeDee engines I sent around the world to folks

I too want to see this plane twist you around until you wonder if it is EVER gonna run out of fuel

The giggle and grin is worth the pain of making it AND flying it

Fred...what size fuel tank will run this 2-3 min?...I doubt I could spin around much longer than that!