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November-2021
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".049 Babe Bee "in action""



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Post  OVERLORD Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:10 am

Today, there is a flea market in the village. My wife and daughter have a stand while I took care of the logistics. At noontime, after delivery of the catering, I made a quick tour. I did not have 1 centime in my pocket for not being tempted but I found in a box with other stuff this little McCoy "5" engine bolted on a wooden block. I paid EUR 2 for it and found haggling, what I usually do,  a bit misplaced. The crankshaft and piston are free and the anodizing is only missing near the cylinder flats.

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Post  andrew Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:26 am

Great find; even better price.
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http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM

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Post  Ken Cook Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:30 am

Good free flight engine.
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Post  rsv1cox Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:55 am

That's what, a little over 2 $USD. Nice engine and a great find.

I have it's brother, a mess when I got it. Painted the cylinder with high heat red, same left-over color as on one of my old MG's engines.

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They might have rolled off the same assembly line together Lieven. Smile
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Post  OVERLORD Sun Sep 05, 2021 11:24 am

Thanks for your comments.

@rsv1cox wrote:That's what, a little over 2 $USD.  Nice engine and a great find.  

I have it's brother, a mess when I got it.  Painted the cylinder with high heat red, same left-over color as on one of my old MG's engines.  

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They might have rolled off the same assembly line together Lieven.  Smile

I saw your thread of 6 years ago about your engine. Beer Cheers Beer Cheers
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Post  rsv1cox Sun Sep 05, 2021 12:00 pm

Time repeats itself.  I had forgotten all about it.  They all run together, I have done several similiar engines.

Edit add.  

Found it, took me awhile after punching in McCoy in the search function.  I paid $11 for it.  You got the better deal.  Smile

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t8321-odd-mccoy-049-model-5-maybe?highlight=mccoy

Oh yes, that undrilled mount!!!! Gotta be worth a million bucks or $2.38 USD.
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Post  getback Sun Sep 05, 2021 2:31 pm

That was a steel , are you going to see if it will run Very Happy I got to look in on ur boat thread , maybe tomorrow just taking a short break from a Toro/Wheelhouse i am trying to get straightened out What?
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Post  OVERLORD Tue Sep 07, 2021 1:44 pm

@getback wrote:That was a steel , are you going to see if it will run Very Happy I got to look in on ur boat thread , maybe tomorrow just taking a short break from a Toro/Wheelhouse i am trying to get straightened out What?

Yes Eric, I would like to run it. I'll take the tank off to see if it has seen fuel at all or not and whether it was stored -or forgotten- with fuel still in the tank or not. Then give it a methanol clean and hopefully, the glowplug is still OK.
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Post  OVERLORD Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:58 pm

Today, I removed the tank and the back plate. In fact, they came off in one piece. Both are clean and also the crankcase did not have any gunk. I cleaned tank and engine with alcohol and a cotton butt. I tried the glow plug but that didn't lit up. After dismantling the head, I found there was no electrical contact between the glow head and the anodized finned screw. Lightly sanding the surface did the trick.

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Post  Kim Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:27 pm

Nice Score!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post  OVERLORD Sun Sep 12, 2021 5:05 am

TRIAL DAY !!!  I ran the engine a bit rich but all went well. The tank empties quickly and as Ken said, ideal for free flight.

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Post  Oldenginerod Sun Sep 12, 2021 6:27 am

@OVERLORD wrote: I tried the glow plug but that didn't lit up. After dismantling the head, I found there was no electrical contact between the glow head and the anodized finned screw. Lightly sanding the surface did the trick.

This problem might give you some confidence that the engine may have never been run, because the insulated plug may have always prevented it from starting. I'm not sure if this is the likely case here, but I know that the first ever engine I bought was an Enya .09 that the original owner "could never get to start". The original Enya plug wasn't working and it turns out that the insulating washer under the top screw-on thimble of the plug was missing, causing the thimble to short out to the body of the plug. A new fibre washer was fitted and the engine never failed me again. Another similar case was an OK Cub .060 I got off eBay quite cheaply. It wouldn't do more than burn off the prime. I eventually discovered that the brass insert for the needle valve had never been drilled to allow metered fuel through. The engine could have never run like that. A replacement tank insert resulted in an instant start. Another OK example (giving rise to the theory that OK Engine had serioius quality control issues) was a new looking .049B which would not run, with the cause being that an unported crankshaft had been fitted from new. May have missed the porting process, or someone fitted a reed valve crank to the FRV engine.
I've heard of other issues such as a baffled piston or a liner assembled the wrong way. Engine never runs, owner gives up on it and eventually moves it on, hopefully to someone clever enough to sort out the problem.
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Post  getback Sun Sep 12, 2021 6:37 am

cheers cheers Good deal , got it running without much trouble of cleaning .
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Sep 12, 2021 8:47 am

I truly enjoy seeing posts like this. It's a great feeling that your purchase was very reasonable and that it also works. I know you will be able to get this on something unique and it will certainly be cool lofting around. Kim has his old collection of planes and they just keep going and going. Different engines on some of them give them a whole new attitude and experience.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Sep 12, 2021 8:58 am

Maybe it’s my eyes, but it appears there is a lot of aluminum residue in that exhaust oil. If so something is amiss.

I am glad you got it running!

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Post  OVERLORD Sun Sep 12, 2021 10:26 am

Thanks Rod for sharing your experience with poorly finished new engines.

I also noticed that the castor residue was very dark coloured. I opened the backplate again but didn't see anything abnormal. The only thing I can think of is that it could come from where the crankweb rubs against the crankcase as the prop pulls the crankshaft forwards. If Rod is correct and this engine has never run, there might be a burr in the crankcase from the main "journal". If it would be that, the black castor should dissappear in time, correct?
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Post  Yabby Sun Sep 12, 2021 10:59 pm

Great Post. Like Ken, I really enjoy these posts with old engines, like old engines I havent seen before. One way you can check is to use bearing blue to see if things are touching. Some people use a texta. Doesnt really work with a running engine though and sometimes things only touch when running. That means you need to go looking for little shiny spots on surfaces or like a little scratch mark that isnt from machining. Use a really strong light and magnifying glass, Ive got one of those magnifying lens lights where its all built as one. I have had engines do this and it goes away when the high spots or such are worn down. Not ideal, but at least the engine is running and looks Great!Very Happy Thumbs Up

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