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Dope, Sanding Sealer, And The Like...... Empty

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Dope, Sanding Sealer, And The Like...... Empty Dope, Sanding Sealer, And The Like......

Post  NEW222 Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:10 pm

So just a quick question regarding the above. Cold weather season is starting to set in here and I have a couple of small jobs that will require some attention. One that comes to mind is a free flight model, of which someone on another forum had asked about, and my Viking is still in 'the bones'. Just gotta get my butt in gear and do some sanding so this will be possible this winter.

I know that the dope I have is and will work to both seal the wood and adhere and seal the tissue and act as a sanding sealer. Downside is it is going to be used indoors, so dope is pretty much out.

Now I know that Bob for one, and I think a couple of others have referenced and mentioned to me of using a sanding sealer. Great, and I had found some locally, but.... Can or will sanding sealer also be used to adhere tissue with? If not, what methods would work on top of a sanding sealer to adhere tissue down with? Maybe to get off of here for a while and do some sanding now..... Back later. Very Happy
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Post  rdw777 Mon Oct 25, 2021 9:42 pm

New,

Can’t answer your questions completely but can share a recent experience looking for alternative finishes I did with my Stuntman 23 project….. I prefer dope and thinner and those covering methods but just wanted to experiment….,I used Elmers white school glue and water about 50/50 to adhere the trim tissue onto the raw wood…. Tack down an end or an edge, let it dry just a bit, Then gently tug at it to try and get sags out brushing the glue/water thru the top of the tissue along the way…. For areas that didn’t want to stick at first maybe just a little water only to help the mixture wick thru…. I found if you need to re-do an area straight water will soften the bond and let you lift it to try again…. The thing to watch out for is that tissue can get really weak when wet with water and can tear easily…. It also tends to wrinkle more than working with thinner but I had OK luck with it tightening back up as it dried….. This was all done on solid balsa…. Covering an open structure frame will be more challenging but I think it could be done with this adhesive….If I were going to try it I think I’d fab up some test frames and cover them to get a feel for it…

I top coated the tissue and exposed wood with Mineax oil base polyurethane…. I haven’t gased up and flown it yet to test it’s fuel proofness but others here say that it is so I’m trusting that…You would still have to coat the tissue in the open structure….. Not real sure on that…. Would like to see other’s ideas….
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Post  944_Jim Mon Oct 25, 2021 11:08 pm

Chancey,
The stuff I use is by Deft...DFT010 by part number. I use it just like nitrate dope,.and topcoat with Butyrate. Yes, stick it down, shrink it up, and seal.
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Post  Ken Cook Tue Oct 26, 2021 4:04 am

Freeflight is subjected to a lot of abuse. Most on here state tissue which is incorrect for this model. Tissue is for a rubber powered model. I fly a lot of sport freeflight and a dope finished covering even with the proper selected material would last about one flight. The tall grass and soybeans we fly over would puncture it on one landing. Paint the fuse and cover the wing and stab in iron on covering. It will also allow you to twist or dial  warps  in or out easier. I cover .020 planes with Monokote and it's not too heavy.
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Post  getback Tue Oct 26, 2021 6:09 am

MILLENNIUM COVER from DOCTOR DIESEL is cheap and very light i have some , have not try it but looks good you may want to try this stuff out .. You will have to call him and he is a Hoot to talk to >> http://www.cafes.net/doctordiesel/DDaccessories.htm scroll to the bottom of page Very Happy
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Post  cstatman Tue Oct 26, 2021 9:19 am

Josh over at J&H has been selling "DocuLam" in 0.6mm
use it (or thicker) as Monocote-type iron-on,  then tissue over that if you like

provides strength and rigidity, without the weight, for smaller models.
https://jhaerospace.com/product-category/building-supplies/covering-materials/

for bigger models?  as Ken mentioned - monocote works great.


i had exactly ONE flight with an .020 FF, tissue and dope only - that didnt survive the landing.   Frame/bones yes, covering, not so much...


Last edited by cstatman on Tue Oct 26, 2021 9:20 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : adding names)
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Post  rdw777 Tue Oct 26, 2021 12:51 pm

Dope, Sanding Sealer, And The Like...... 68bead10
Dope, Sanding Sealer, And The Like...... 9bf2bc10

Luckily there’s lots of ways to skin a cat…. I think it boils down to practical use and how we want final appearance…..Either one of those can be weighted plus or minus….. And of course New’s criteria of low odor….

The wing on the plane in the photo is Esaki tissue and Sig Lite coat and over thirty years old …..Yes, been patched a few times but surprisingly durable…. Course it’s RC and I can generally steer it to a reasonable landing spot…
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Post  NEW222 Tue Oct 26, 2021 6:05 pm

Well, where to start....
Lightweight covering had been thought of, but was personally trying to refrain from that especially on the wing. I have more than enough doculam here to use, but I just do not like its ability, or lack thereof, to go around compound curves. Even on the things I had used it on, I would be afraid of using any plastic covering on the wing and tail tips of this light model. I will probably rech out to a couple of local older control line fliers to see if they have any silkspan I can get to use on thsi model. The other main reason is since this will be my one and only free flight model, and vintage at that, I do want to try and get a close to period correct look for it, even if my wingtips look bad when covered. Again, another lost art where I find the older generation can do magic with this stuff and make it perfectly beautiful.
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Post  Levent Suberk Tue Oct 26, 2021 6:10 pm

Try spray acrylic clear instead of cellulosic dope. But it is not fuel proof. There is Krylon crystal clear acrylic spray. I didn't try that brand with Minwax so trying that it is compatible with Minwax will be good.

https://www.krylon.com/products/crystal-clear-acrylic/
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Post  NEW222 Tue Oct 26, 2021 6:40 pm

Hmmm. Now that is something I had not thought about using actually. I really love the idea. I currently have a little Minwax Polyurethane in a spray can here I use, as well as the following Rustoleum 2x clear. But it does not say if it is acrylic, or whatever it is, which is disappointing.

https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-2x-ultra-cover/clear

While spraying in the house is a huge no-no, I may be able to get away with it at certain times. Or I guess, I can run outside in teh garage, unheated, just to spray it then bring it inside immediately to dry.

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Post  Levent Suberk Tue Oct 26, 2021 6:59 pm

My suggestion is do not bring it in immeadiately into house because fumes are smelling bad; acetone based sprays or other kind of spray or brush on coatings. I tried a brush on polyurethane floor wax once and I nearly lost my smelling for about three days. I thought to go to a doctor for this. Then I gain again my smelling slowly so no need to go a doctor. Always wear protective masks when you work with paints and varnishes.
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