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Post  rsv1cox Sun Nov 14, 2021 10:03 pm

I have been looking for one of these.  When our old friend redbaroness put one up BIN for $22 I jumped on it.

Mesh screen .049 Cox engines Screen10

This one appears to be no prize, one NIB would be a prize. Looks like the mesh seam is situated at the front, not a good look and is frayed a bit. Get's here next week.........maybe. But...........how do you remove the cylinder? Top fin slots didn't arrive until the slit cylinders, then only later.


From Sitter/Dannels:

Mesh screen .049 Cox engines Scan_106
Mesh screen .049 Cox engines Scan_105

"Painful burns"..................Poor babies out there.  I was lucky to escape with finger whacks and just a little loss of blood.  Smile
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Post  Marleysky Mon Nov 15, 2021 12:16 am

Removal of the Screened or Banded cylinders. Hmmm,  It seems Cox manual says to use a pair of pliers. OWCH.  I still use a leather strap and heat to remove them if necessary.

Mesh screen .049 Cox engines Mesh210


Last edited by Marleysky on Mon Nov 15, 2021 6:47 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added picture)
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Post  sosam117 Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:07 am

Do what Marleysky says.
Heat the cylinder up and then I would use the glo plug wrench on the glo plug and see which comes loose?
If the glo head unscrews then remove it and then file flat spots on the cylinder to where the Cox wrench fit the cylinder.

They probably assembled the screen over the cylinder then screwed the glow head into the cylinder, then screwed the cylinder into the crankcase and tightened the entire assembly with the wrench on the glow plug.

Then it was your problem to get the cylinder off, because I think the glow plug will come loose first. (any bets?)

That is what I would do.
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Post  dckrsn Mon Nov 15, 2021 4:30 am

Here's another recipe, Bob(like you need one).
1. Heat the glow head(to expand and tighten it to the cylinder)
2. Heat the crankcase(to expand the case threads)
3. Try the head wrench to loosen the cylinder.
4. If necessary, try the inverted canned air trick.
Chilling the cylinder tightens it to the head and shrinks
the cylinder in the case. Got to work quickly to beat the
heat migration between parts. If all fails, hit the cylinder/case
threads with some sort of penetrating oil while its hot, and try
again tomorrow. If the head comes lose, you're probably going
to have to try the leather strap, or your choice of cylinderectomy.
  I envy you Bob. I've never faced this challenge.
Good luck,
  Bob
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Post  getback Mon Nov 15, 2021 12:57 pm

Cool you got one coming , i have i think two of them and have sold about the same till I realized I should keep some for ME ! lol Maybe you want have to take the cylinder off ?! Very Happy
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Post  rsv1cox Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:44 pm

Thanks all..........tricks of the trade.

Maybe I won't have to take it off. Depends on how castor locked the crank shaft is. I'll probably just run it once then mount it on one of those plastic mineral stands.
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