The mesh Babe Bee and a slightly bent prop

Yea-Man that’s a nice looker now! Do you really need to use a body hammer and vice to flatten the little reed? I usually just use my fat thumb and rub the reed up and down on a flat surface to iron out small wrinkles.
Yeah,yea....everything looks like a nail, I know.
Hey, if I’d known the screen/mesh cylinders were gonna be rare, I wouldn’t have removed them from the cylinder!  I do still have a couple intact ones, still it’s a PIA to prime the cylinder with them on.

Nice work, junk to jewel, thats a great looking engine, I like the screen.
Step by step photos makes an interesting read!

May I ask, what's the gauze screen for please.

A "flame" retarder ?

I presume it also quietens the exhaust noise a bit ?

A "flame" retarder ? wrote:

Yes to keep from burns from over prime

Good job on the clean up Bob did the prop straighten out alright ?

getback wrote:Good job on the clean up Bob did the prop straighten out alright ?

Yes, I was quite surprised, straight as an arrow.  Very flat board, screwed down tight, a couple of tooth picks and a heat gun applied evenly to just slightly soft, then let it cool naturally.  As good as any new prop except for the starter spring/chicken stick scars.  Like I need another 6/3, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it.  Got another one as bad, going to do it too..

Mr Mesh and prop, sitting there all perky like...............




Rene, I took the hammer trick from Fred.  Done several that way, works for my pedestrian engines.

Bob,

did you build a jig? how are you chucking the tank in the drillpress?
I can't tell from the photo.
but I like the idea

thanks
Charles

cstatman wrote:Bob,

did you build a jig? how are you chucking the tank in the drillpress?
I can't tell from the photo.
but I like the idea

thanks
Charles

The jig is pictured in picture #8 above. Just my style, very simple.

Depends on the spindle of your drill press. Just chuck it up on the intake tube, snug not key tight. I just use hand tightness. Really pitted cases, I start with 220 grit wet or dry, then 400, then fine steel wool in an up/down pattern. Usually start with just 400 grit. You can pollish to near glass finish - 800 - 1000 grit and a polishing compound. The relief for the reed cleans up nicely with lightly applied fine 0000 steel wool.

i'll give it a go this weekend.
thank you