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Post  Oldenginerod Wed Mar 23, 2022 8:32 pm

.049 (with a standard 1/4" x 32 glow plug) was a Torpedo, .035 (with an insert) was a Torp Jr. and .020 (with a smaller insert plug) was the Infant.

I suspect that a Norvel style insert could possibly be machined to fit, although one for the Infant may have to be cut down too far. They are similar in design and installation.
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Post  GallopingGhostler Wed Mar 23, 2022 9:49 pm

Thanks, Rod, for answering my question. Just brainstorming, I wonder if a custom aluminum cylinder top in aluminum could be machined to fit a Cox .020 glow head. I know it would not be totally original, but would return the engines to running performance again.

Again, probably hypothetical. Huh...
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Post  Oldenginerod Wed Mar 23, 2022 9:57 pm

GallopingGhostler wrote:Thanks, Rod, for answering my question. Just brainstorming, I wonder if a custom aluminum cylinder top in aluminum could be machined to fit a Cox .020 glow head. I know it would not be totally original, but would return the engines to running performance again.

Again, probably hypothetical. Huh...

Depending on wall thickness, but it would probably be more efficient to drill and tap the original insert to take a standard plug.
Alternatively, I wonder if a Cox head could be turned down to the dimensions of the original insert (Even an .049 head).  If anyone has a burned out Cox .020 head and the means to accurately machine it, it may be worth a try. That would maintain the original K&B head profile.
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Post  Oldenginerod Wed Mar 23, 2022 10:08 pm

For your interest.
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1-2-1-8-airplanes-70/2180514-infant-020-a.html
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Post  rsv1cox Thu Mar 24, 2022 8:14 am

GallopingGhostler wrote:Bob, that .020 cleaned up quite well, considering that you started with. Regarding the head, was that some type of special holder that clamped down a button type glow plug element? It is a shame that there is no replacement head or replacement head for a standard glow plug.

Yes, I have done a search to no joy.  But I will keep looking.

I took the piston pin out and removed the piston giving me more room to clean the case.  I wanted to remove it completely but I couldn't unscrew that backplate despite my best efforts of building a jig for it and screwing it face down securely then heating it to crackling and cooling the center with remoil.  Wish they had molded a quarter inch/half inch hex in there instead of spanner slots.  I'm about 50/50 removing them.

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