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Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Page 2 of 4
Page 2 of 4 • 1, 2, 3, 4
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
I do believe that the use of those “old” nylon TF props is NOT recommended. They have a nasty habit of breaking apart while running and throwing sharpe pieces at anyone in harms way. If you’re just going for a static display they are ok, but just don’t run them.
My 2 cents worth...
Your restoration of the engine looks GREAT!
My 2 cents worth...
Your restoration of the engine looks GREAT!
Marleysky- Top Poster
-
Posts : 3618
Join date : 2014-09-28
Age : 71
Location : Grand Rapids, MI
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
I have some Cox 6×3 props I can use to run the motor. I usually run my models at least once after resto just for fun.
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
That really looks great. Really nice job. I like the correct period parts too.
I tend to do the same also, keep the previous owners propeller with the engine.
Bob
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11095
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
I actually did run the motor with the TF prop just once yesterday and made like a 15 second video with my phone. I don't know how to upload it to the site though.
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
The forum has no video upload privilege, most likely because storage space costs money, and videos take up a lot of space. However, it has ability to show a link where you uploaded it (I.e., YouTube, Vimeo, your Google Drive, etc.)
And, comments on to be extra cautious, not to reuse old age nylon props was substantiated in the last batches of the Top Flite classic white nylon props with the red silk screened markings. They all came with a sticker specifying how to rehydrate them for use and storage, and to retire old and cracked props.
AFAIK, they develop microscopic cracks whilst age drying out weakening their structure. They are hydroscopic, contain water moisture. It was the strangest thing for me to hear, why plastic would need water? Apparently so, one would put them in boiling water to rehydrate them.
APC and Masters here in US became the main staple, being glass filled plastic props, which did not have the problems natural nylon had. However, I loved Top Flite and Tornado nylon props, because they were very inexpensive. Although they needed to be balanced, were nearly indestructible in use, able to handle prangs from dirt and grass strikes often with very little damage. If a tip got excessively nicked up, I'd trim off equally a small amount of the propeller tips, rebalance and reuse.
Even with their weaknesses, I considered them a Godsend, for the budget minded sport flyer. I was disappointed when manufacturing of them stopped completely.
And, comments on to be extra cautious, not to reuse old age nylon props was substantiated in the last batches of the Top Flite classic white nylon props with the red silk screened markings. They all came with a sticker specifying how to rehydrate them for use and storage, and to retire old and cracked props.
AFAIK, they develop microscopic cracks whilst age drying out weakening their structure. They are hydroscopic, contain water moisture. It was the strangest thing for me to hear, why plastic would need water? Apparently so, one would put them in boiling water to rehydrate them.
APC and Masters here in US became the main staple, being glass filled plastic props, which did not have the problems natural nylon had. However, I loved Top Flite and Tornado nylon props, because they were very inexpensive. Although they needed to be balanced, were nearly indestructible in use, able to handle prangs from dirt and grass strikes often with very little damage. If a tip got excessively nicked up, I'd trim off equally a small amount of the propeller tips, rebalance and reuse.
Even with their weaknesses, I considered them a Godsend, for the budget minded sport flyer. I was disappointed when manufacturing of them stopped completely.
GallopingGhostler- Top Poster
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Posts : 5628
Join date : 2013-07-13
Age : 70
Location : Clovis NM or NFL KC Chiefs
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
TF nylon props were the most common replacement units for our motors in my day from our local hobby shop. It will be used for display only though. Even Cox International advised me to boil the factory 6-3 props I got from them because of potential brittleness due to age.
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
I have this one in use for long time and it never lost its Flexibility
Think i have one stored in a box of difrent cox stuf But is not transparent and flexible like this one is It's my spare and somtime the first prop For the first flight after building a new rc model Just in case Something is wrong and I have to make an emergency landing.I prefer the master airscrew 6x3 and it a bit hard To Find one
Think i have one stored in a box of difrent cox stuf But is not transparent and flexible like this one is It's my spare and somtime the first prop For the first flight after building a new rc model Just in case Something is wrong and I have to make an emergency landing.I prefer the master airscrew 6x3 and it a bit hard To Find one
davidll1984- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2318
Join date : 2020-02-12
Age : 39
Location : shawinigan
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
bottomgun wrote:Got my decals in this evening and applied them using a soapy water mix to make them easier to position. The front hood decal took some patience to get smoothed out, but it worked out and I'm satisfied with how it turned out.
Those decals do look good! Are they waterslide or vinyl? Where did you get them? off E-bay? Thanks.
Marleysky- Top Poster
-
Posts : 3618
Join date : 2014-09-28
Age : 71
Location : Grand Rapids, MI
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
They are vinyl sticky back decals. I got them off Ebay from a seller who doesn't actually make them, but bought the inventory off the the individual that did and is no longer producing them. I have the link for you. There are three sets to choose from and your choice of number.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/THIMBLE-DROME-PROP-ROD-DECAL-SETS-CHOOSE-YOURS-PRICE-REDUCED/185276924623?pageci=0d537270-5081-44b2-8317-20b7390a478a&redirect=mobile
https://www.ebay.com/itm/THIMBLE-DROME-PROP-ROD-DECAL-SETS-CHOOSE-YOURS-PRICE-REDUCED/185276924623?pageci=0d537270-5081-44b2-8317-20b7390a478a&redirect=mobile
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Nice, I see a museum quality restoration taking place, excellent work, bottomgun. I remember seeing the prop rods of the 1960's and 1970's at the military base exchange Toyland sections and off-base, various other departments stores. They were such beautiful eye candy.
GallopingGhostler- Top Poster
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Posts : 5628
Join date : 2013-07-13
Age : 70
Location : Clovis NM or NFL KC Chiefs
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Thanks. I'll be doing the final assembly later today.
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
RE: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
The TF props give that vintage look to display engines and models that I like.
The not so pristine TF props that I would like to run are boiled for a few minutes in water that I have added a small amount of red Ritz dye.
The dye gives the props a ruby red color and it also serves to keep me from forgetting which are rehydrated and ready to go.
FWIW
The not so pristine TF props that I would like to run are boiled for a few minutes in water that I have added a small amount of red Ritz dye.
The dye gives the props a ruby red color and it also serves to keep me from forgetting which are rehydrated and ready to go.
FWIW
66 Malibu- Gold Member
- Posts : 477
Join date : 2012-02-28
Location : Georgia
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Excellent job on a very desirable model. What did you use to remove the original decals?
rsv1cox- Top Poster
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Posts : 11095
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
The hood decal was an old water transfer and I easily scraped it off with my thumbnail. The rear ovals were adhesive backed stickers. I used Testors plastic model paint remover on each and let them soak for about 20 minutes. It was still difficult to remove and I still used my thumbnail. If I can avoid it, I don't use tools like plastic scrapers or scrub pads so I don't mar the plastic.
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Yes excellent restoration, very nicely done
Here's part of a post from member Mudhen I copied and saved concerning this model prop Rod
That version of the Prop Rod is referred to a the "Gold Leaf" Prop Rod. The name refers to the gold leaf decal on the hood. (That's not an official name. It's the name given by collectors.)
Mud
Here's part of a post from member Mudhen I copied and saved concerning this model prop Rod
That version of the Prop Rod is referred to a the "Gold Leaf" Prop Rod. The name refers to the gold leaf decal on the hood. (That's not an official name. It's the name given by collectors.)
Mud
Davenz13- Platinum Member
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Join date : 2013-11-28
Age : 68
Location : Palmerston North, New Zealand
crankbndr- Top Poster
- Posts : 3103
Join date : 2011-12-10
Location : Homestead FL
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Beautiful job BG, and CB I have always admired your Prop Rod and couldn't imagine why I didn't have one. I have been reading this thread with envy, so I went looking.
Every Prop Rod that I have ever looked at on ebay was way too nice, until this morning I stumbled on this one:
Not so nice but just my speed. $80 BIN. Here next week. Early model, metal pan, thin wall, large head needle, tapered case BB.
Every Prop Rod that I have ever looked at on ebay was way too nice, until this morning I stumbled on this one:
Not so nice but just my speed. $80 BIN. Here next week. Early model, metal pan, thin wall, large head needle, tapered case BB.
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11095
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Prop Rod engine screws and restoration
Nice early yellow model! About 1956?
bottomgun- Gold Member
- Posts : 132
Join date : 2012-12-27
Age : 67
Location : Southern California
crankbndr- Top Poster
- Posts : 3103
Join date : 2011-12-10
Location : Homestead FL
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