Norvel .061 in RC boat

When able take a photo of your engine / tank layout in the boat.

Prop cools the engine so does castor oil in the fuel so make sure
you always use castor oil with boats, it is a must. Nitro at least
15%. The steel dumas flywheel gets the job done on the water.
I have ran riggers and monos / Cox .049 to .074.




Dumas flywheel static test for vibration etc.

Some of my 1/2A boat efforts here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumbgallery.php?t=2738171&do=threadgallery

 

All
Thanks for the response to my plea for help. In response to your questions I did use an infrared thermometer after a prop run and red 205* on the head. The fuel I am using is SIG 25* nitro with 20* caster oil. As for crank bearing seizure, immediately after the motor cuts out with the flywheel attached I am able to reconnect the glow plug clip and hand start the motor by just flipping the flywheel which spins freely. I have the intention to try and check the head temp running with the flywheel soon. I am also using a Cox glow head on the Norvel motor. One thing I noticed is when running with the prop I am seeing some caster oil residue present at the center of the glow plug center pin. I also have an adapter head to allow me to use a 1/4" glow plug I am planning to try. I will post some pictures of my boat showing the motor and fuel tank layout when I can.

Again thanks for all the help

This engine needs a heat sink to dissipate the heat the carburetor should be adjusted differently for a boat this is what you need
Normal heli heat sink

I don't think 5 seconds of running will heat the engine that much , since it is broken in . There is fuel feed problem in my option. Keep posting and you will be able to post pics. soon .

getback wrote:I don't think 5 seconds of running will heat the engine that much , since it is broken in . There is fuel feed problem in my option......

True -- 5 seconds is a relatively short time. And he did state that it would restart with the flywheel easily after stopping. OTOH, he ran it with a prop for a full run, then changed to the flywheel on the stand and the symptoms reappeared so the tank setup of stand vs boat gets ruled out.

But, if he does have an out-of-balance flywheel, it might cause enough fuel foaming in the tank to lean the engine out after the fuel line has emptied.

Interesting problem!

if anything I suspect the prop is more out of balance that the flywheel. Could the issue be glow plug heat range. I am using a cox glow head but I have a conversion glow plug head on hand with hot range glow plugs. This may be my next experiment.

We are a bit on the same kind of project I too am building a boat but a tug boat nothing fast with a funny 4-stroke engine It's not easy to build with glass fiber i dont like, it stinks
I have just started and I wonder if I would not be better off buying a hull

rat, have you tried to post pics. yet ?

No I don't think I have that ability yet. This is only my fourth post.

Here are some pictures showing the motor test setup and the boats I am looking to get the Novel .061 RC motors to work in.

davidll1984 wrote:We are a bit on the same kind of project I too am building a boat but a tug boat nothing fast with a funny 4-stroke engine It's not easy to build with glass fiber  i dont like, it stinks  
I have just started and I wonder if I would not be better off buying a hull

Reminds me of the summer of 1975. I built a Dumas competition 40 deep V hull from a plaster of Paris mold of a purchased hull.
Typical student I was trying to save money. Wasted the better part of two weeks molding trying to get the resin to harden and body filling only to end up with an atrociously heavy replica.

So if you can buy a hull save yourself the grief.

BTW I built this hull and fitted it with retractable hydrofoils for a university thesis. Powered with a K&B schneurle racing 40. Couldn't have picked a worse engine for this heavy monstrosity (high rpm, low torque would only turn a tiny prop)

It never worked although I've still been unable to get rid of it even after all of these years.

Very nice, have you ran the Sk Daddle JR yet?
Where did you source the unlimited hydro kit?
What length / width?

See pic for some ideas. Note how gravity forces the
fuel in the R turns and at speed. Exhaust all efforts to sort out
a rock solid set up that won't send you home for fixes, issues etc.
With IC project boats remember oil is the number 1 enemy,
if the wood gets soaked it's days are numbered. Water number 2.
Wrong prop and depth 3, weight 4.

The Norvels should run with the throttle open enough.
Pull the plug make sure you get a good glow / heat it up
for a visual check. Fresh fuel / never leave the bottle open
nitro will evaporate. Take what you need and close it up pronto.
If no water cooling leave it a bit rich prior to launch.
I carry extra fuel onboard with boats / want that run time and
extra fiddle time. Do you have a link to any build logs?

Zoom in to the subject at hand for folks to get the best possible detailed view.







This is pure vintage goodness.

I have run the Sk Daddle Jr boat with a Cox .049 but I am trying to get a Norvel .061 to work to take advantage of the throttle. But to this point I have not been able to keep the motor running long enough to get the boat in the water.

The hydro is copied from the Dumas Miss Thriftway kit that I got off of eBay. I traced out the parts onto some scrap plywood and carved out the cowling out of balsa wood. I have been building RC boats for a while and have several gas and electric boats. I use west system epoxy to seal all surfaces inside and out.

I hope to do some more testing with the Norvel .061 motor this weekend trying a different glow plug setup with the flywheel and see if that makes a difference. If so I hope to get to the club pond and get things running. I belong to a group called the Delmarva Model Boat Club in Maryland, see Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1423440864577940/ Most of the boats are LSG gas boats and some Fast Electric. I will keep everyone posted of my results.

I do not see where the tank will be placed, it should be placed with the carburettor in relation to the height position of the carburettor You may have to reconfigure the hul a bit

Great, what prop are you using with the mono?
Try to get some cell phone vid and post on youtube if able.

There is simply not enough 1/2A boats saved on youtube for generations to see

All,

I have great news! I tried the Norvel .061 with a glow head adapter from Cox International and a screw in glow plug and I was able to start the motor on the test stand and it kept running with the flywheel only. I was able to adjust the needle and was able to throttle the motor from idol to wide open throttle and motor still kept running. I was even able to blip the throttle quickly and the motor kept running. My next job is to plumb up a water pickup and aluminum tubing to cool the cylinder head in the Sk Daddle Jr and get to the pond. Maybe next weekend.

Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions and I will keep you posted on further results on the Sk Daddle and the Miss Thriftway 1/2a projects

Fantastic news, likely the cox glow element was bad.
You are breaking ground no one has a running Norvel inboard powered
boat on youtube nor in any threads I have searched for media.
The low weight Norvels will produce good power for some thrilling
boat fun.

Here is a modified .074 heli engine set up for boat use / .062 wire drive from Jeff Wohlt

https://www.rcraceboat.com/Storewiredrive.html

I have some of his wire drives in a couple 1/10 scale electric boats.

[url=https://servimg.com/view/20428638/4][img]

Nice work, you should have no problem sorting out 1/2A boating!

Nice looking Boats rat350r , Look foreword to your builds and some water splashing Glad you got the glow figured out and the Norvel is running up good for you !

Your three boats are magnificent, but I particularly like the one in the center miss wahoo Nice one i like I think the next boat I'm going to build will be made of wood. My arms itch because of the fiberglass it's Not funy I hope the result will be at least acceptable for a first boat I made with fiber And will surely be the last one that I will do in this way