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"Summer time!" with a Cox Conquest .15



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Starting a New OS 15 LA Empty Starting a New OS 15 LA

Post  Yabby Sun Jul 31, 2022 6:15 am

Ive had my OS 15 LA in its box for three years now. No need to get it out and use it as I really love using and flying my Half-A Cox powered planes. But a mate in the city has been at me to get it going and fly a combat wing again in the city when I go there and catch up with him. Im pretty close to having my Yabby version of the Liquidator Combat wing built, so Im trying to break in my OS 15 LA.

Now, I know for many of you here and people who have done heaps of this like Ken who has offered much advice on running-in engines, that its not overly difficult for many, especially using or understanding the advice that has been posted and offered. But dont anyone ever ever tell me a TD 049 is hard to start again!!!! lol! I have been able to get my OS 15 LA running and starting to break in, without a starter motor. But I have to say, it would be a definite impediment to someone starting out in the hobby with no background in how the engines work and starting these types of engines. Electric would just seem so much easier!!!!! lol!  That said, I am NOT going electric. I love two stroke engines that make noise, smoke comes out of them, the smell of the fuel..........  But I guess Im an old Old Bugger sunny  My memory has dimmed of having to run-in my enya and taipan glow engines when I was young, but my mum said to me the other day that I used to spend hours in the shed flicking those new engines to get them going.

The OS wasnt that hard to get going eventually, but I didnt do what the instructions suggested. I couldnt get it running that way. So I got out some 30% nitro fuel with lots of oil in it and just put some drops of fuel in the Venturi, rotated the prop half a dozen times, connected the battery and flicked the prop and it ran the prime through. did this quite a lot of times as it was clearly getting looser and looser and the engine more and more responsive to the prime as it warmed up etc.....  eventually it ran off of the tank when I thought it was warm enough and had loosened up. Also starting it by priming it that way allowed me to learn what the engine sounded like when flicked over with too much fuel in it and when it had used the fuel in it, and I think being able to hear that is important to starting all engines. Just that different engines sound a bit different.

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Post  944_Jim Sun Jul 31, 2022 8:18 am

Good for you, Yabby!
I have a small pile of OS-LA 15s converted with James Lee venturies, tongue mufflers, and through-venturi needle valves. Sadly, none have been run.
I look forward to watching your build.
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Jul 31, 2022 8:19 am

There's nothing magical to know about starting a LA series engine. The problem with most of them is that the remote needle valve can be problematic. It's problematic due to being very high which vacuum pulls the fuel up the line and when the engine is not running, it runs back into the tank. I also found that it really limits the engines full potential. The threads are too coarse for fine adjustments and the taper is too aggressive which when the engine leans up, it starts to cut off. The stock up front FP .15 through the venturi spraybar and needle is superior offering easier adjustments and higher rpm's. Not that you can't run 30% nitro in the engine, it's not necessary. The LA series runs perfectly fine on 5% nitro. There's little gain in running higher nitro with this engine. Don't over prop the engine, 8" props are not happy on the LA engine unless they're very light pitched.

The stock muffler is a POS and shouldn't be used unless necessary. It considerably robs rpm's. The exit hole is incredibly small and the internal cone inside is nothing but a heat trap. I highly recommend you cut off the needle valve from the rear backplate. If not, the first crash will do that for you breaking the backplate making it useless. The fact that you seem to crash so much would have one considering to purchase more backplates. The crankshaft can punch a hole right through the backplate even in a grass crash. Another thing to keep an eye on is the Delrin end pads on the wrist pin. If your running the engine on the nitro your suggesting, they will wear fast and mounted profile they will wear even faster on the down side.

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Post  Yabby Sun Jul 31, 2022 8:31 am

thanks Ken. all really helpful information. I dont intend running it on 30% nittro. I was having hassles starting it first time and that seemed to make it easier. might have been coincidence. I would be very happy if I can run it on 5% nitro and luckily I bought a 7 and 8 inch props so I can prop it down as you suggest. Yes, the NV bothered me for several reasons including breaking off, but didnt consider the height etc.

hopefully flying an Old style combat wing with some form of aerofyle as I was used to as a youngster rather thsan very small slab wings and profile fuse will actually fly a little better. I recall I used to not crash my combat wings when I was younger on the old thick soldered 50 ft lines with the round handle that they rolled up onto after flying. they used to actuall glide beutifully when the engine cut out whereas the small slab wing profile models Ive been building drop like a brick when the engine stops. so hopefully flying something that has a better built up wing will also turn much better. Thumbs Up

thanks for the advice and info! Hand Shake cheers

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Post  Yabby Sun Jul 31, 2022 8:34 am

944_Jim wrote:Good for you, Yabby!
I have a small pile of OS-LA 15s converted with James Lee venturies, tongue mufflers, and through-venturi needle valves. Sadly, none have been run.
I look forward to watching your build.

thanks for that. It very certainly sounding like I need to sort out a better needle valve setup than it came with! Thumbs Up

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Post  GallopingGhostler Sun Jul 31, 2022 9:58 am

Ken Cook wrote:The stock up front FP .15 through the venturi spraybar and needle is superior offering easier adjustments and higher rpm's. Not that you can't run 30% nitro in the engine, it's not necessary. The LA series runs perfectly fine on 5% nitro. There's little gain in running higher nitro with this engine. Don't over prop the engine, 8" props are not happy on the LA engine unless they're very light pitched.
Thanks for the factual tidbits on the .15LA, Ken. Interesting that OS still sells and makes the .15-LA but R/C version only, Tower cost $120 US. Web photo shows engine stamped with "Japan", so apparently they are still made there. I still have my venerable .15-FPS. Was surprised a couple years ago, that the older Enya .15-III TV with throttle wired wide open on a Masters 8x6 prop did the same lap speeds in wet-2 as my .15-FP on a Masters 8x4. Plus, the Enya could do a wet-2 to dry-2 transition in stunts. The Enya is a torque engine.

Back is getting better, 4 inch incision is sealed now. Sent the MADS RC Club my 2022 dues, want to be flying there soon, CL and RC.
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