My Mazda RX-7GSL-SE build log with the occasional balsa inclusion

Yabby wrote:Hey Bob, the packet for those injectors looks like a deisel packet. Now that is extreme! A diesel rotary mazda. Lol. I guess they are injectors made for diesels that happen to also be just right for the Rx7.

Well, I guess you could say that the engine is similar to a diesel. I believe that the oil is mixed with gasoline prior to being injected into the cylinder like a 2 cycle engine, to lubricate the rotor seals.

But oh, oh....spare parts.  Go somewhere on the throttle assembly.  Rusty and hanging free, I will have to check my old pictures to see where they go.



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The two bolts with the flange on them go to a "wire" style hose clamps the Japanese auto makers are fond of using, did you replace some hose clamps?

Everything is fine Good work.

Looking really swell, Bob.

I used "epoxy" spray paint cans on my sandblasted TR6 suspension parts. They had held up to normal use just fine. I don't remember going through a whole lot of effort to get the paint, so I believe it was purchased at Lowe's. I think it was their "appliance" paint (refrigerators, washing machines, etc). It even looked good on that Shadow I rebuilt a while back, although it took a quick shot of poly-urethane clear to shine the epoxy paint up. After that it wasn't too far off from the factory paint on the tank.

The splash pans would look great in black, although white will make it easier to watch for leaks. Splash pans go on last after everything has been installed for the last time, proven to be complete and trouble-free. I paint the "parts" now, and hang them where the paint can cure in sunlight for as long as possible. I bet you do the same, or close to it.

Hey Bob , I feel you with the humidity its here to , rain next 2 days . Are you using the Scotch-Brite Roloc pads these things are amazing not cheap but good and fast . They will clean up some pretty nasty stuff in a flash . That's pretty wild the way the fuel cycles through the system until needed . Never worked on many of the Mazda's seems at the time the parts where hard to get and my boss didn't want them waiting in a small parking lot . I got to put a rear window in my truck now that i finally got it LOL after the rain and cool pass .

It is interesting that all electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems do that recirculating. I think it may be related to having sufficient fuel available during highest demand (I.e., lead foot, pedal to the metal ). Stand fuel systems, carburetor(s) have a built in reservoir, it's float valve keeps it topped off. You don't have this with EFI.

Bob, PM'd you, I think there could be a good reason to break your model plane sabbatical if you act quick enough.

Bob, no problems, I'm glad I don't suffer from such a buying problem, especially after the K&B .09 Green Head Torpedo, Fox .09 Rocket, .15 Sportsman, .051 TD, and
never ending .049 Thermal Hopper

Yeah, I gather that they put these UPS drivers under such insane delivery schedules, that they don't have much time door to door, long hours, long rural routes (at least here).

Bob,
I'm glad the guy dropped it near by. Our town is broken into north and south. Southside address very similar to mine happens to be a school. One time my package was "delivered," and within a day or two of attempting to have "delivery service" discover/fix the issue, I got "school's" school promotion articles (posters in a tube).

That got me to thinking...hmmm, maybe that's where my items are.

So a quick visit to the school's main office ensued. "No Sir,.we don't have anything not belonging to us." "Ok...but can you look again? It would have gotten here two days ago," I said. Apparently she who was in charge didn't feel like entertaining the conversation anymore. "Sir, we told you that never happens!" I replied "I guess these aren't yours then?" And tossed their trinkets into their trashcan. I promptly left. I never got the first package, and the service DID try to locate via GPS where the driver was when he dropped off the package...at the school. PayPal fixed it their way. So I ordered from a different vendor. I have no idea how the original vendor handled it from their end, but I did provide him with all I had/knew.

Anyway, good thing you have classy neighbors!

But the main reason for my reply. I have a can of very similar spray paint. The cap indicates a very bright, almost chrome-like finish. It was purchased to repair the reflectors in the TR6 backlights. I was sorely disappointed to spray a dark silver on my freshly prepped assemblies, but I needed to get done "now."

I will say it was an acceptable color for my oldest son's Ninja brake pedal. Yours looks a lot brighter! Great job on the belly plates.

That’s great news on the oil pressure Bob, Looks like the motor is going to be pretty solid …..Hopefully to get the dash gauge to work is just a wiring issue that can be easily found…..Maybe you could try an ohm meter at the wiring for the sending unit and see if you get anything and trace from there….. Check the sending unit it too, I’m guessing should have variable resistance as pressure rises and falls…. Quit burnin yourself compadre!!! …. But have fun with your project…. Making good progress…

Looks good out in the sunshine Bob…. Definitely 80’s look…., Hard to believe that’s getting to be a long time ago….

If the gauge deflects from a straight voltage application, That’s a good thing…. I think you mentioned you were on a Mazda forum and have a buddy or two that knows some things, Those probably will get you going the right direction….. My knee jerk reaction without knowing much would be to try and put some regulated air pressure on the sensor and see if you can get a change in resistance (hi and lo pressure) on the contacts… Just be careful on too much hi pressure….

You should be able to test the sending unit with a simple multimeter set to resistance setting. Wire off and engine off, it will have a set resistance. Some have it where when the oil pressure increases, so does the resistance. Others, it is the opposite, which is more likely. Depending on how wired, if oil gauge is like an Ammeter (or Milliammeter), then zero oil pressure, sensor is in a highest resistance state (almost no current through oil meter). With oil pressurizing the sensor, it will drop in resistance (increased current indicating higher oil pressure).

Example test, http://www.marshallinstruments.com/faqs/detail.cfm?id=34 Marshall Auto Gauges: How can I troubleshoot my electric oil pressure gauge?

Your Mazda Owner's Club or group should have someone who knows what he is doing, and can advise accordingly, if your manual does not outline a testing procedure.

rsv1cox wrote:Latest is the radio in the RX-7.  Blows a 15 amp every time you turn it on.  But and the one that really gripes.....I broke the press on/off knob and it disintegrated well beyond repair.  I'm sure I would have had a replacement that would work.

Thanks for the link George.  I haven't given up folks.....

You're welcome, Bob. Does the RX-7 club have dibs on a replacement radio that is in keeping more or less with the looks but has upgraded features to improve what you got? May be instead of cassette, CD? or MP3 and Bluetooth capable? Hands off calling of your cellphone?

rsv1cox wrote:

The unit looks bigger than a double DIN and on a local audio accessory site they show an upgrade with a double DIN and add a single DIN pocket below.
But, if you're like me you will want to have it looking original and unmolested.

Our 80 Series Landcruister still has the original double DIN Fujitsu10 logic system with cassette track select etc. and I was simply planning on using a cassette adaptor plugged into my phone, but there appears to be something mechanically wrong with the deck as the cassette won't fully insert.  Dratt!!!
Gotta find some old bloke who still knows how to fix this stuff.