My Mazda RX-7GSL-SE build log with the occasional balsa inclusion

Yabby wrote:Hey Bob, the packet for those injectors looks like a deisel packet. Now that is extreme! A diesel rotary mazda. Lol. I guess they are injectors made for diesels that happen to also be just right for the Rx7.

Well, I guess you could say that the engine is similar to a diesel. I believe that the oil is mixed with gasoline prior to being injected into the cylinder like a 2 cycle engine, to lubricate the rotor seals.

GallopingGhostler wrote:

Yabby wrote:Hey Bob, the packet for those injectors looks like a deisel packet. Now that is extreme! A diesel rotary mazda. Lol. I guess they are injectors made for diesels that happen to also be just right for the Rx7.

Well, I guess you could say that the engine is similar to a diesel. I believe that the oil is mixed with gasoline prior to being injected into the cylinder like a 2 cycle engine, to lubricate the rotor seals.

Thankfully it's gas. Diesel is out of sight $ and my tractor drinks it like water. I'm about to go back to my ATV a cart and a sore back instead of the bucket.

Filled the last hole. The engine compartment is back to as received minus all the gook, leaves and mice nests.





But oh, oh....spare parts. Go somewhere on the throttle assembly. Rusty and hanging free, I will have to check my old pictures to see where they go.

But oh, oh....spare parts.  Go somewhere on the throttle assembly.  Rusty and hanging free, I will have to check my old pictures to see where they go.



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The two bolts with the flange on them go to a "wire" style hose clamps the Japanese auto makers are fond of using, did you replace some hose clamps?

Good catch.

Yes, I went to my pictures yesterday and found where they all went. The funny bolts do go to the wired clamps that were on the lines to the water choke. I had traditional spares and replaced them. The clip went to a relay cable that is part of the emissions control, and the insulated cable clip goes on an intake manifold bolt.

Disassembly continues with some signs of hope.  

Pucker time removing the window glass.  One little slip.  Nylon clips had to be removed before the glass could the lifted out of the door and I had no idea how to do it.  I thought they were U clips but no, just expansions through the glass.  A box cutter blade removed them





Top of door weatherstrip was dried and cracked, pried it out.  I have new replacements.





Glimmers of hope, starting some put back togethers......... Drivers side door trim was bent like a pretzel and tossed in the rear hatch.  Heat flattened but did not remove the curve so I built a jig.





Under body shields. Wire brush, wire wheel, sandpaper, sandblasting.

Everything is fine Good work.

Looking really swell, Bob.

I used "epoxy" spray paint cans on my sandblasted TR6 suspension parts. They had held up to normal use just fine. I don't remember going through a whole lot of effort to get the paint, so I believe it was purchased at Lowe's. I think it was their "appliance" paint (refrigerators, washing machines, etc). It even looked good on that Shadow I rebuilt a while back, although it took a quick shot of poly-urethane clear to shine the epoxy paint up. After that it wasn't too far off from the factory paint on the tank.

The splash pans would look great in black, although white will make it easier to watch for leaks. Splash pans go on last after everything has been installed for the last time, proven to be complete and trouble-free. I paint the "parts" now, and hang them where the paint can cure in sunlight for as long as possible. I bet you do the same, or close to it.

Thanks Jim,  They are pressed mild steel panels natural and unpainted but perhaps treated in some way..  I'm using up all my old half empty spray cans knowing that I'm not restoring an old Packard or Mercedes.  More like painting a moustache on the Mona Lisa. Were it a better example I would spend more time, effort and money on it.  

Spent most of the morning cleaning up the guard under the engine.  Usually these are oil soaked and not rusty.  Mazda did too good a job sealing the engine and this one was quite rusty.  Gave up on sandblasting and used Comet, dish soap, wire brush, and a rust remover (like a steel wool pad on steroids) to get much of it.  Hoping that Rust-oleum will do the rest.  

One more shield to go, a long one that protects the catalitic converter and the exhaust pipes.  Yes, a long time before they are put back on.

Misty humid day today.  Have to wait before I paint it.

Hey Bob , I feel you with the humidity its here to , rain next 2 days . Are you using the Scotch-Brite Roloc pads these things are amazing not cheap but good and fast . They will clean up some pretty nasty stuff in a flash . That's pretty wild the way the fuel cycles through the system until needed . Never worked on many of the Mazda's seems at the time the parts where hard to get and my boss didn't want them waiting in a small parking lot . I got to put a rear window in my truck now that i finally got it LOL after the rain and cool pass .

"That's pretty wild the way the fuel cycles through the system until needed."

Amazed me too Eric.  I'm not familiar with these new-fangled fuel injection systems.  

That fuel rail is about 1/2" in diameter and fuel rushess through it like Man-O-War at the Kentucky Derby.  Thinking about it, I'm not sure that's a great idea but fuel rails are common in fuel injection systems.  

Sun came out yesterday PM so I painted the other splash pan.  Two down one to go.




On the down side, UPS delivered my oil injection parts yesterday.  Too bad they delivered them to someone else.  Ever try to lodge a claim with UPS.  A trip to the dentist is a better experience.  Never did achieve success.  They send you on a circle like a dog chasing his tail.

It is interesting that all electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems do that recirculating. I think it may be related to having sufficient fuel available during highest demand (I.e., lead foot, pedal to the metal ). Stand fuel systems, carburetor(s) have a built in reservoir, it's float valve keeps it topped off. You don't have this with EFI.

Bob, PM'd you, I think there could be a good reason to break your model plane sabbatical if you act quick enough.

GallopingGhostler wrote:It is interesting that all electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems do that recirculating. I think it may be related to having sufficient fuel available during highest demand (I.e., lead foot, pedal to the metal ). Stand fuel systems, carburetor(s) have a built in reservoir, it's float valve keeps it topped off. You don't have this with EFI.

Bob, PM'd you, I think there could be a good reason to break your model plane sabbatical if you act quick enough.

I saw that George and answered. As I mentioned I have two already, one NIB. But they are both yellow. I don't have one in green. Enough reason for me to jump on it...............several months ago.





And the "Wall of shame" where models go to die not to fly is full. No more room at the Inn.




On the bright side a good neighbor delivered my mis-sent oil injectors this morning while I was out shopping. Don't these UPS drivers have GPS!!!!

Bob, no problems, I'm glad I don't suffer from such a buying problem, especially after the K&B .09 Green Head Torpedo, Fox .09 Rocket, .15 Sportsman, .051 TD, and
never ending .049 Thermal Hopper

Yeah, I gather that they put these UPS drivers under such insane delivery schedules, that they don't have much time door to door, long hours, long rural routes (at least here).

Bob,
I'm glad the guy dropped it near by. Our town is broken into north and south. Southside address very similar to mine happens to be a school. One time my package was "delivered," and within a day or two of attempting to have "delivery service" discover/fix the issue, I got "school's" school promotion articles (posters in a tube).

That got me to thinking...hmmm, maybe that's where my items are.

So a quick visit to the school's main office ensued. "No Sir,.we don't have anything not belonging to us." "Ok...but can you look again? It would have gotten here two days ago," I said. Apparently she who was in charge didn't feel like entertaining the conversation anymore. "Sir, we told you that never happens!" I replied "I guess these aren't yours then?" And tossed their trinkets into their trashcan. I promptly left. I never got the first package, and the service DID try to locate via GPS where the driver was when he dropped off the package...at the school. PayPal fixed it their way. So I ordered from a different vendor. I have no idea how the original vendor handled it from their end, but I did provide him with all I had/knew.

Anyway, good thing you have classy neighbors!

But the main reason for my reply. I have a can of very similar spray paint. The cap indicates a very bright, almost chrome-like finish. It was purchased to repair the reflectors in the TR6 backlights. I was sorely disappointed to spray a dark silver on my freshly prepped assemblies, but I needed to get done "now."

I will say it was an acceptable color for my oldest son's Ninja brake pedal. Yours looks a lot brighter! Great job on the belly plates.

I have used three different Rust-oleum spray cans on these panels, a primer and two different applications both different in shade that is more pronounced than is shown in these pictures.  The can in the middle is the one I used to finish this panel I may have to top coat it with what remains in the other can to match.  The loft is a great place to stick these things until needed.




The fellow in Georgia that sold me the intake manifold/throttle body/dynamic chamber combo has turned out to be a friend and a valuable source of information about these early RX-7's.  He just sent me an oil pressure gauge that connects directly to the engine and a set of proper oil injectors when he noticed that the ones I got from the ebay vendor were not correct for my year.  Got both today thanks to a good neighbor.





The parts vendor did a great job cleaning them up.  Looks like a mechanical pump with a rectangular drive for the impeller.

I hitched up the oil pressure gauge that a friend in Georgia sent me.  Not just good oil pressure but great pressure that converts to 60/72 PSI.  On the high side of normal for these.




But.........I removed it and installed the new OP sender and the cars interior gauge is still not working.



With every silver lining there is always a cloud.

Warming the engine up I'm getting gobs of smoke.  I think a mouse had built a nest somewhere in or around the exhaust manifold either that or leaves.  Leaves were everywhere in this car.




Also got my second RX-7 injury.  Boo Hoo

That’s great news on the oil pressure Bob, Looks like the motor is going to be pretty solid …..Hopefully to get the dash gauge to work is just a wiring issue that can be easily found…..Maybe you could try an ohm meter at the wiring for the sending unit and see if you get anything and trace from there….. Check the sending unit it too, I’m guessing should have variable resistance as pressure rises and falls…. Quit burnin yourself compadre!!! …. But have fun with your project…. Making good progress…

Thanks Robert, Compression injury, trying to get my hand/arm inbetween solid immovable objects. I'm slow to learn the consequences.

We checked the gauge by shorting it out and it deflects. Perhaps not the best check. Still looking into it. Hard to believe that we have two bad senders.

Light of day. Learned that the power steering works something I have been wondering about. Starts right off, no choke or foot throttle. Less smoke today. Mickey is being cremated in stages.




Cleaned up and painted more panels. Loft is getting crowded.

Looks good out in the sunshine Bob…. Definitely 80’s look…., Hard to believe that’s getting to be a long time ago….

If the gauge deflects from a straight voltage application, That’s a good thing…. I think you mentioned you were on a Mazda forum and have a buddy or two that knows some things, Those probably will get you going the right direction….. My knee jerk reaction without knowing much would be to try and put some regulated air pressure on the sensor and see if you can get a change in resistance (hi and lo pressure) on the contacts… Just be careful on too much hi pressure….

You should be able to test the sending unit with a simple multimeter set to resistance setting. Wire off and engine off, it will have a set resistance. Some have it where when the oil pressure increases, so does the resistance. Others, it is the opposite, which is more likely. Depending on how wired, if oil gauge is like an Ammeter (or Milliammeter), then zero oil pressure, sensor is in a highest resistance state (almost no current through oil meter). With oil pressurizing the sensor, it will drop in resistance (increased current indicating higher oil pressure).

Example test, http://www.marshallinstruments.com/faqs/detail.cfm?id=34 Marshall Auto Gauges: How can I troubleshoot my electric oil pressure gauge?

Your Mazda Owner's Club or group should have someone who knows what he is doing, and can advise accordingly, if your manual does not outline a testing procedure.

Years ago I got rid of my extensive stash of electronics. Capacitors, resistors, diodes, and yes vacuum tubes. Now that I'm retired I thought I'll never find a use for this stuff, so out you go. Among them was a nice collection of radio, TV, and amplifier control knobs. The best laid plans..........

So, how many times since have I found a need............. dozens, hundreds.........

Latest is the radio in the RX-7. Blows a 15 amp every time you turn it on. But and the one that really gripes.....I broke the press on/off knob and it disintegrated well beyond repair. I'm sure I would have had a replacement that would work.

Thanks for the link George. I haven't given up folks.....



BTW.........That working power steering, a really big deal for me. This thing is trying it's best to get along. I hate to tear it down again to put it back together dotting all the i's and crossing all the T's, a months long evolution. I want to drive it down town and do donuts in a parking lot. ............Nah, not really me. I gave that up weeks ago.

rsv1cox wrote:Latest is the radio in the RX-7.  Blows a 15 amp every time you turn it on.  But and the one that really gripes.....I broke the press on/off knob and it disintegrated well beyond repair.  I'm sure I would have had a replacement that would work.

Thanks for the link George.  I haven't given up folks.....

You're welcome, Bob. Does the RX-7 club have dibs on a replacement radio that is in keeping more or less with the looks but has upgraded features to improve what you got? May be instead of cassette, CD? or MP3 and Bluetooth capable? Hands off calling of your cellphone?

rsv1cox wrote:

The unit looks bigger than a double DIN and on a local audio accessory site they show an upgrade with a double DIN and add a single DIN pocket below.
But, if you're like me you will want to have it looking original and unmolested.

Our 80 Series Landcruister still has the original double DIN Fujitsu10 logic system with cassette track select etc. and I was simply planning on using a cassette adaptor plugged into my phone, but there appears to be something mechanically wrong with the deck as the cassette won't fully insert.  Dratt!!!
Gotta find some old bloke who still knows how to fix this stuff.