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Post  John Goddard on Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:18 pm

Anyone have experience of these things?
I'm thinking ahead to how we're gonna get O/T to rise off ground.
Cool
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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:23 pm

John Goddard wrote:Anyone have experience of these things?
I'm thinking ahead to how we're gonna get O/T to rise off ground.
Cool
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I gave mine to Indra. I do know a little about it. What's up?
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Post  John Goddard on Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:29 pm

Was it troublesome?
I'm kinda squeezing more power out of the Teesuredeestarty and will prob
step (up?) to the full td when that go's bang or I get bored or my carb
experiments are completed.....
I'd like to get it ROG and was wondering whether the Novel would be
a logical step or just straight up to an 09 or poss even my Med15.
J
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Post  fit90 on Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:37 pm

Super engines! I have never used an R/C variant but I have several venturi equipped engines. They like to spin fast so do not use a prop bigger that a 5X3. The one I use on my Sig Hummer has a Galbreath head, Nelson plug, pressure tapped back plate and fine thread needle valve and it has unlimited vertical capability on an ASP 5.7X3 cut down to 5X3. They have a definite break in procedure that must be followed and they have a fairly long break in period as well. Over all, they are dependable, robust and great performers. Enjoy it. It is a great little engine. Yes, they do out perform an .049/.051 Tee Dee.

Bob
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Post  PV Pilot on Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:40 pm

I am putting one back together on the worktable right now. Did a bit of work to it to fix some issues I spotted and that have been posted upon elswere. Will probably pass fuel thru it today and see what it will turn.
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Post  fit90 on Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:42 pm

If you are looking for a really good throttle you might want to consider an MP Jett .061. They are a dual ball bearing engine with a true two needle carb. Since they were originally desined as diesels they are super strong and provide lots of torque which makes them super tolerant of relatively large props for their displacement. They used to offer a plain bearing version which is also an outstanding engine.

For the Norvels, I have been told that the Big Mig series is better at throttling. I can not offer any first hand experence though.

Bob
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Post  microflitedude on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:04 am

I have the "AMA" .061 RC. I got it with the prop nut stripped out, so I'm looking for another.
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Post  andrew on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:09 am

John -
Are you sure you have an AME --- there is no outward indication on the RC version to differentiate the Big Mig from the AME, so you'll have to count the intake ports. Three oblong ports on the AME; 5 round ports on the Big Mig. If it is indeed an AME, it will be quite a runner, but this model was designed to turn and is generally less user friendly. The low end is not so low, either.

Like Bob said, don't overprop it.
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Post  andrew on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:11 am

microflitedude wrote:I have the "AMA" .061 RC. I got it with the prop nut stripped out, so I'm looking for another.

Is the crankshaft stripped? These use a standard 3mm bolt if the prob screw is buggered.

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Post  fit90 on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:12 am

As far as I know the AMA does not indicate if it is an AME or a Big Mig. The best way to tell is to remove the head and count the number of ports. The AME has three and the Big Mig has five. The AME is the fast spinner and the Big Mig can handle a little bigger prop better. The Big Mig is an excellent sport engine.

RCUniverse has a sticky on their 1/2A site about the Norvels. There is some really good info in it. Norvels are also available again. I have purchased some items from the new distributor and had a very good transaction. The parts were genuine Norvel and the service was great.

I better stop selling brand X on a Cox site now.

Bob
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Post  fit90 on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:14 am

I'm a slow typer and Andrew beat me to it.

Bob
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Post  PV Pilot on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:31 am

I see AME, AMD, Big Mig. Wish they would have categorized those a bit better.
for my rebuild I also picked up a website indicated AMD 061 C/L version along with my seals and gaskets. Picked up a NV pressure tapped backplate for the C/L as I heard it helps. NO pressure backplate for the R/C version as I read that it floods it out.
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Post  John Goddard on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:42 am

Cheers Boys
Great info.
Keith, looking forward to the numbers.
Bob, no worries Ma man variety spice of life etc.. I may even mention how I've got a begrudgingly sneaking
admiration for electricky of late too.
Or maybe not.......
lol!

P.S.
It came in an AME box I'll take a gander shortly
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Post  microflitedude on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:50 am

The hex head is stripped out - I think the crank is fine. I'll need a new paper head gasket also. I tried tightening it with pliers, but the prop flew across the yard. Shocked I also need some bolts so mount it. What size?
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Post  John Goddard on Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:56 am

microflitedude wrote:The hex head is stripped out - I think the crank is fine. I'll need a new paper head gasket also. I tried tightening it with pliers, but the prop flew across the yard. Shocked I also need some bolts so mount it. What size?

I've just pushed bolts through the mount holes Matt.
Over here we'd use 2.5mm.


Also I've counted 3 H U G E great ports..
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Post  andrew on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:01 am

PV Pilot wrote:I see AME, AMD, Big Mig. Wish they would have categorized those a bit better.
for my rebuild I also picked up a website indicated AMD 061 C/L version along with my seals and gaskets. Picked up a NV pressure tapped backplate for the C/L as I heard it helps. NO pressure backplate for the R/C version as I read that it floods it out.

See this thread (about halfway down) for the AME/AMD explanation: http://coxengineforum.forumakers.com/t1552p20-fuel-for-norvel-061

Provided your muffler is seated well, you can get decent muffler pressure for the Big Mig. At one time, the AME C/L engines were available with 3 different venturi sizes: normal, big and Humongus. For the large venturi, you had to either run a pressure bladder or crankcase pressure because it was too large to support good fuel suction.
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Post  PV Pilot on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:04 am

I have a 6-32 pressure tap for the muffler, it should work. 6-32 works about the best on the small motors, so long as you know where to put it on the muffler.
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Post  John Goddard on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:12 am

PV Pilot wrote:I have a 6-32 pressure tap for the muffler, it should work. 6-32 works about the best on the small motors, so long as you know where to put it on the muffler.

Dunno if it's because it's an R/C Keith but this one has pressure off the muffler.
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Post  andrew on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:16 am

microflitedude wrote: I'll need a new paper head gasket also.

The head gaskets are copper --- COX head gaskets will interchange directly. I'm assuming you're talking about the cylinder/crankcase gasket which is fiber. You can get these from NV Engines.
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Post  fit90 on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:19 am

You might want to try a 4-40 instead of a 6-32. If the 4-40 isn'e enough you can always go up to a 6-32. Can't always go back though. Tower hobbies usually carries a Fox 4-40 pressure nipple. A muffler from an AP might be a possibility. I am not sure though. It might be worth checking out.

Bob
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Post  PV Pilot on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:23 am

Cool!, thanks for the Pic John. About where I am going to add mine, a little further back nearer to the convergance area, but still on the large tube section. I have the straight stinger exit.

Your's looks to be a later big mig with the set screws to hold the carb and pressure fitting on the muffler.

It was a bugger getting the throttle arm set to where I wanted it last night (upright). The barrel uses the threads on the fuel jet to rotate on and enought room needs to be allowed for it to rotate all the way closed and open smoothly. the probelm is that you have to hold the throttle arm where you want it,,and not allow it, or the barrel to turn as you tighten the 5MM brass hold down nut. I got it but it took a bunch of trys. That extra hand would have came in handy,,lol


Last edited by PV Pilot on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  PV Pilot on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:25 am

fit90 wrote:You might want to try a 4-40 instead of a 6-32. If the 4-40 isn'e enough you can always go up to a 6-32. Can't always go back though. Tower hobbies usually carries a Fox 4-40 pressure nipple. A muffler from an AP might be a possibility. I am not sure though. It might be worth checking out.

Bob

Thanks Bob. I have some 4-40's also, as well as plug screws to plug the holes if needed.
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Post  microflitedude on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:27 am

The prop shaft bolt's head is stripped.

Yes, I am using a Cox copper gasket under the glow head.
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Post  andrew on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:32 am

John Goddard wrote:Dunno if it's because it's an R/C Keith but this one has pressure off the muffler.

All of the later models shipped with pressure taps on the mufflers. You do need to pay attention to the muffler clip and make sure the ends that snap over the muffler haven't been spread out. The stinger cap can rotate and I have had one actually pop loose while flying. I usually decide about how I want it to be pointed, then clean and JB Weld in place. Even if they don't pop loose, they can rotate after the engine has some time on it.
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Post  PV Pilot on Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:47 am

John Goddard wrote:
microflitedude wrote:The hex head is stripped out - I think the crank is fine. I'll need a new paper head gasket also. I tried tightening it with pliers, but the prop flew across the yard. Shocked I also need some bolts so mount it. What size?

I've just pushed bolts through the mount holes Matt.
Over here we'd use 2.5mm.


Also I've counted 3 H U G E great ports..


Lucky Dog!,, you have the spicey one.

I havent pulled this NIB C/L apart yet,,fingers crossed. It is the smallish nickle plate cylinder and glued in throttle body..
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