Spray catalyst type clear over dope?

Ken's got some good pointers.

Can't say about that particular product. If nothing else, you could do a test case on scrap cardboard. Then you'll know for sure.

I've been a long time dope fan, at one time had 20 four oz. bottles of Sig dope, but over time over half age hardened, irredeemable. The solvents were still there, sealed bottle. So, it is like starting new.

Have now a collection of Rustoleum enamel spray. Times have changed.

I also meant to add that I have also used the Spraymax2k clear. There's a plunger on the bottom of the can and you pop it which mixes the hardener inside the can. This product does work well. Unfortunately, you really need to use the can within a day. It hardens completely so you almost need to plan your projects or else your throwing it out. This product has gone up nearly $10 a can in cost over the past two years.

Thank you guys! I'm going to test a bit of cured dope I have on balsa sheet and if it don't curdle, spray the Baby ringmaster and Lil Wizard before flying.

I am not a fan of any spray can because they harden in the can. The 2K is even worse. I had always wanted some automotive two part clear, but last that I looked 10 years ago it was only available in gallons for about $100 + hardener. Not sure what it is now. Maybe a quart or litre is more reasonable if you can get it. I can't see putting clear over dope anyway because it is already fuelproof if it is butyrate. Unless you need a protection coat over Letraset or something. The old Hobbypoxy clear was great for that. I wonder if the marine stores still carry it. I had trouble breathing last time I went to the marina and saw the prices of paint.

Truth is that NO dope is fuel proof and never was. Sig Lite Coat clear has always been the most fuel resistant clear available to modelers. Not only the most fuel resistant, it's the most warp proof and also the clearest of clears. Higher nitro which a 1/2A uses is like pouring dope thinner on the model, it will wash it right off in short order. Brodak dope is utterly complete crap and will wash off with 10% nitro. I top coat all Brodak colors using Sig Lite Coat. I just prefer Brodak colors because they offer more of them. In addition, Sig hasn't had dope for over a year now and what they have is limited with NO thinner. Sig thinner is one of the major reasons the product works so well. Sig thinner is the ONLY thinner that dries slow, therefore the end user has less issues with adhering, blushing, brush strokes and dries the hardest . It also offers the best gloss appearance because the longer the open time of the product on the surface, the flatter the appearance and the greater the gloss.

             I can certainly see the need for more gloss and better protection with a spray on clear coat.  Epoxy based paints were and still are the choice for those using the high nitro and those in demand for higher gloss finishes with durability. Klass Kote provides such paints and work terrifically.

Thank you Ken..I don't have much experience using Sig dope, just a few planes in my youth brushed on full strength and as of recently using a bit of retarder but no thinner on the 1\2a stuff I've been building..probably why I had so many challanges. VERY good info on the Brodak needing topcoat sealer the olive color will need some on the Wizard then, thanks for that!

We have to hope that Sig continues to carry dope and some of the old school products that we are used to after the big move.