I found an engine for my Jerobee

It looks like a diamond in the rough Lieven. I'm eager to see what you do with it

Bob

706jim wrote:Head looks fine. Just encased in baked on oil. You should be able to clean it off with some work.

Yes Jim, I'll wait and see when the engine arrives at my place.

rsv1cox wrote:It looks like a diamond in the rough Lieven.  I'm eager to see what you do with it

Bob

Bob, the engine is destined for the Jerobee RC car that I'm converting from electric power to nitro.

For getting an engine for your project , just a little bit more to not have to source

OVERLORD wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:It looks like a diamond in the rough Lieven.  I'm eager to see what you do with it

Bob

Bob, the engine is destined for the Jerobee RC car that I'm converting from electric power to nitro.

Yes, i meant cleaning it up, replacing the pull starter, fuel tank, etc.

Bob

All right. I have a Silber Bee tank already and I have spare flyweights but I doubt that they are worn out.. And new small e clips to hold the pinion on the shaft in case the original flys away when dismantling

OVERLORD wrote:All right. I have a Silber Bee tank already and I have spare flyweights but I doubt that they are worn out.. And new small e clips to hold the pinion on the  shaft in case the original flys away when dismantling

That's the fun part Lieven, making a diamond out of a stone.

Bob

The last few days, I studied the above picture to find out how many teeth there are on the pinion.



I can see 5 teeth but how many are there hidden? 3 or 5? I suppose 3. That makes it the standard engine #501(if unmodified) with the 8T pinion. This would match with the tank.

The engine with the heat sink tank - the one with the holes - has a 10 teeth pinion. This matches the 56T driven gear that is on the car.

I would say 8 also , that's weird how they matched the tank configuration and gearing . Do you have the gear needed ?

Eric, if it's a 8T pinion, I need a 58T driven gear, which means I will have to go out shopping

OVERLORD wrote:All right. I have a Silber Bee tank already and I have spare flyweights but I doubt that they are worn out.. And new small e clips to hold the pinion on the  shaft in case the original flys away when dismantling

Hi Lieven! I've missed you!! I need to read your other thread detailing the chassis, to get caught-up with this build. These cars have always fascinated me!

Regarding e-clips that fly away; try working inside of a large clear plastic bag. If a clip "pops" before intended.. the bag will catch it... in most cases.

The photo below shows a similar engine.. and I thought it might help you to identify the gear ratio.



I'm guessing that the "Tee Dee" version (as in your Porsche) has the same gear ratio as the #508 AJ engine??

This is a photo of your Porsche's driven-gear.. but it looks like it's marked "52" and it appears to be a smaller diameter gear.  





Does the number of teeth on the driven-gear matter.. as long as they're all the same pitch as the pinion?

Roddie, that's a good tip for the e clips. The gears for the TeeDee and the souped up BabeBee are the same : 10/56. The entry models as there are the Bandero and Comando a gear ratio of 8/58. These 56 and 58 gears are the only ones used for Cox driven cars.

The 52T gear is for an electromotor drive and this was on the Porsche when I bought it. There is also a 55T gear and 54T gear. For electric cars, the gear is mounted on the opposite - right-- side of the car.

You can check this out in the brochure you can find in the manual section of the forum.

The gears differ in size so you need a pinion that matches for each gear.

Well if it boils down to it and you can't find one you may want to get in touch with https://gascarman.blogspot.com/ Larry Miller he has helped me a few times , may take him a day or so to get back to you though ... I have looked and the animal you seek is not around here USA . Or have someone print ya one ??

Hi OVERLORD,
I am here for:
-an awesome Jarobee Cox.049 car that never arrived around here.
-converting an electric to a more earth friendly methanol/castor fuel based system.
I wish you well,
Take care,
Have fun,
Dave

I received the engine yesterday. There is a 10T pinion but unfortunately, the throttle ring is missing. The pull starter works well and the engine has compression. The standard head has seen better days. The cylinder has 1 inlet port. I removed the pinion and the flyweights are present and move freely. some pictures:

Lieven, just curious, but would a standard available Cox throttle ring work on that engine setup, to make up for the missing one?

I don't know. The throttle ring available is made for a thick wall cylinder I think.
This cylinder has a ground surface. I'll measure both to see what that gives.

According to Berney's advert, the inside diameter of the throttle ring is 14.8mm. The cox cylinder has an outside diameter of 14.73mm and the ground cylinder has a diameter of 14.65mm

OVERLORD wrote:According to Berney's advert, the inside diameter of the throttle ring is 14.8mm. The cox cylinder has an outside diameter of 14.73mm and the ground cylinder has a diameter of 14.65mm

14.8 minus 14.65 = 0.15mm = 0.006 inches or 6 thousandth. May be just a slight touch loose, but sounds like it may work. As they say in motorcycling, YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary).

(Don't take my advice seriously, afterall, it is you that needs to be satisfied, not me. )

That sounds to loose to me , i would think 0,003 would bee closer to what your looking for ?? But I was thinking that all the throttled bee's were ground cylinders so there you go . Not getting a reliable idle and shut down will bee a problem in a car application.

The throttle rings sold by Cox International are forstandard cylinders but the minimum rpm is 7000. I have spare set (thanks Bob) that I can use. Just out of curiosity, I tried the machined throttle ring on the cylinder that was on the engine but it was too small. This indicates that a ground cylinder and its throttle ring are a matched pair.