Log in
Search
Latest topics
» Cox 020 PeeWee rebuild questions by GallopingGhostler Today at 2:24 am
» L4 Grasshopper
by latole Today at 2:16 am
» **VOTE-ON-THE-NEXT-COX-ENGINE-OF-THE-MONTH** (November 2024)
by Admin Today at 1:13 am
» Dodge Viper - What a waste but brilliant marketing
by Admin Today at 1:07 am
» COX .020 POWERED SPEEDSTER
by TD ABUSER Today at 12:44 am
» My N-1R build log
by roddie Today at 12:00 am
» PAW 80 and possible use
by ffkiwi Yesterday at 9:45 pm
» Brushless motors?
by rsv1cox Yesterday at 4:53 pm
» Free Flight Radio Assist
by rdw777 Yesterday at 4:28 pm
» Music-wire bending tools (DIY video)
by 1975 control line guy Yesterday at 8:32 am
» Ultrasonic Cleaners??
by sosam117 Thu Nov 07, 2024 11:26 am
» My CA or CyA (super glue) allergy
by rsv1cox Thu Nov 07, 2024 9:52 am
My N-1R build log
Page 2 of 2
Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Re: My N-1R build log
1975 control line guy wrote:Which way will the curl face
and we have a winner! Correct.. the axles should be a left-hand and a right-hand. The coil is meant to be on the backside of the strut.. and the axle's "end" is meant to face outward.. so what I have there are two port-side struts. I'll need to make-up another strut for the starboard-side. I'll use one of these two on another model down the road.
Re: My N-1R build log
Hanging in here
getback- Top Poster
-
Posts : 10415
Join date : 2013-01-18
Age : 67
Location : julian , NC
Re: My N-1R build log
I messed around with one of the Golden Bee's that I got in that consignment-lot several years ago. The copper reed was badly creased. It looked like someone took it out.. "butchered it".. then reinstalled it. One of the "legs" was bent completely over itself flat.. I had some 2nd hand spares that were in decent shape.. so I installed one and it passed the "blow/suck" test with flying colors.
I made a few venturi gaskets from .031" silicone sheet by using my new leather-punches. I used a 7/32" punch to cut the OD.. followed by a 1/8" punch to cut the ID.
A slight squeezing-together of the tank-bowl to the backplate, compresses the soft rubber for a quality seal that won't stress the backplate when the screws are tightened.
The fuel line was of the clear-vinyl type and was brittle-hardened from age. I'm assuming it was the original.. because of the little internal coil-spring. I used a pencil-type soldering-iron with a chisel-tip to melt-through the line, which prevented breaking-off the fragile nipple. This worked very well.. and I'd highly recommend doing it that way.
My engine notes..
I got a pair of 38mm spinners, which should blend-in nice with my 1.5" dia. nacelle-tubes.
I made a few venturi gaskets from .031" silicone sheet by using my new leather-punches. I used a 7/32" punch to cut the OD.. followed by a 1/8" punch to cut the ID.
A slight squeezing-together of the tank-bowl to the backplate, compresses the soft rubber for a quality seal that won't stress the backplate when the screws are tightened.
The fuel line was of the clear-vinyl type and was brittle-hardened from age. I'm assuming it was the original.. because of the little internal coil-spring. I used a pencil-type soldering-iron with a chisel-tip to melt-through the line, which prevented breaking-off the fragile nipple. This worked very well.. and I'd highly recommend doing it that way.
My engine notes..
I got a pair of 38mm spinners, which should blend-in nice with my 1.5" dia. nacelle-tubes.
Last edited by roddie on Tue Oct 29, 2024 9:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
Re: My N-1R build log
Golden Bee #2.. the 2nd from that same consignment-lot I scored in Fiskdale, MA at Hog Heaven Hobbies circa 2017..
I may have mentioned in another thread; that both of these engines have slight damage to the lower vent-tubes in their tank-bowls..
........ maybe road-rash from bellie-landings on models sans landing-gear?
whatever... this 2nd engine is in somewhat better shape.
As with the 1st engine; I installed a homemade .031" silicone rubber venturi gasket.
My engine notes..
I may have mentioned in another thread; that both of these engines have slight damage to the lower vent-tubes in their tank-bowls..
........ maybe road-rash from bellie-landings on models sans landing-gear?
whatever... this 2nd engine is in somewhat better shape.
As with the 1st engine; I installed a homemade .031" silicone rubber venturi gasket.
My engine notes..
Re: My N-1R build log
This will be the 1st time running either of those Golden Bees.. and I'm kinda' psyched that I have a project slated for the pair. I'm going to attempt... to "re-clock" the fuel pick-up location in their tank-bowls to favor control-line flight with the NVA in the horizontal position. It's definitely NOT an optimal position for the fuel pick-up though. I'm replacing the OEM fuel-line/pick-up with silicone tubing. This alone can present a challenge when it comes to holding it in position. There aren't petitions in place on the backplate-casting, for locating a fuel pick-up in this position.. so I may need to improvise...
Re: My N-1R build log
Those homemade venturi gaskets look good Roddie…. Maybe just a little plump to get that nice “squish” when tighten the tank screws up…. I like mine the same way…. Any special way you make them?
rdw777- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 1672
Join date : 2021-03-11
Location : West Texas
Re: My N-1R build log
rdw777 wrote:Those homemade venturi gaskets look good Roddie…. Maybe just a little plump to get that nice “squish” when tighten the tank screws up…. I like mine the same way…. Any special way you make them?
Hi Robert, The material is .031" silicone sheet. I sourced a set of leather punches a while back. I first use a 7/32" punch.. and poke-out the little disc.. then I "center" a 1/8" punch as close as I can get it by eye...... to make the 2nd punch. I find it easier to line-up that way, rather than punching the small hole first.
Re: My N-1R build log
Thanks Roddie, Your method produces a definite thickness which is great…. I cut mine from silicone fuel line on a piece of brass tubing spinning in a drill press…. It may take a few tries to get the right thickness…. Yours is repeatable every time, Nice!
rdw777- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 1672
Join date : 2021-03-11
Location : West Texas
Re: My N-1R build log
rdw777 wrote:Thanks Roddie, Your method produces a definite thickness which is great…. I cut mine from silicone fuel line on a piece of brass tubing spinning in a drill press…. It may take a few tries to get the right thickness…. Yours is repeatable every time, Nice!
I bought the punch set expressly for the fabrication of my homemade silencer/muffler's silicone/outer-component. I had been using brass tubing.. which "worked"... but the punch-set is something that I'd wanted to add to my hobby-tool arsenal for some time.
The silicone sheet that I use for the muffler is .045" thickness which is ideal. That's the same exact thickness of the butyl rubber from the bicycle tire inner-tube material that I used when I first started making the mufflers. I had also sourced some thinner .031" sheet and some thicker .078" sheet. The thinner sheet was prone to tearing and the thicker sheet was too thick to staple using standard paper-staples; not to mention heavier weight than necessary.
Nacelle construction
Shown above; the starboard (control line-outboard) engine nacelle layout. A 38mm cylindrical structure of yet-to-be determined final length. A 6.3mm hardwood dowel runs through the center of all bulkhead-discs; providing alignment. The 1st and 2nd bulkheads (behind firewall) support the starboard-side of the central-structure by providing "blocks" which the central-structure will mount atop rigidly... with small screws and gussets epoxied-in. This will locate both nacelles slightly "lower" than the central structure.. for a more scale-look.
Bulkhead #2 rearward.. is purely cosmetic.. but not necessarily non-functional. This outboard nacelle is counter-weighted using X2 steel fender-washers that also fit onto the centering-dowel.
Here's a look at how the two nacelles will tie-in to the plywood central structure. The central structure will consist of two parts (layers). Only "one" is shown here. A standard bellcrank will mount with its pivot/bushing/screw running through both of the 3mm lite-ply layers, on the model's center-line.. with the bellcrank on the "bottom-side".
Re: My N-1R build log
I love the Golden Bee engines roddie. Carries the yellow paint scheme of the Naboo better than any other. Nicely thought out structures and the built-in outside counterweights.
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11207
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: My N-1R build log
rsv1cox wrote:I love the Golden Bee engines roddie. Carries the yellow paint scheme of the Naboo better than any other. Nicely thought out structures and the built-in outside counterweights.
Hey THANKS Robert! There's actually not a whole lot more going into this model outside of the 2nd part to the 3mm lite-ply central structure. The floating-tail "FLEX-EL" (TM) is a single piece of thin (.020"/.5mm) plastic sheet; a flexible-panel which attaches rigidly to the central-structure's trailing-edge. Conventional hinging will not be applied in this design. A conventional control-horn however will be used.. and will mount "centrally" and slightly "rearward" of that trailing-edge.. so as to "bend" the flexible-panel via a conventional .062" (1.6mm) music-wire push-rod. Incidentally; conventional lead-out lines will be used.. and will be routed through guides in the inboard engine-nacelle.
Shifting-gears now... back to the landing-gear, mounts and wheels. Anything "nacelle-related" needs to be worked-out before I go any further.
Re: My N-1R build log
Looks like a good sturdy mount for the twin Golden Bees….. Kind of foundational for everything else to be built around I suppose
rdw777- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 1672
Join date : 2021-03-11
Location : West Texas
Re: My N-1R build log
rdw777 wrote:Looks like a good sturdy mount for the twin Golden Bees….. Kind of foundational for everything else to be built around I suppose
Yes Robert, I'll have the opportunity to utilize some of that triangular-ply gusset-stock in key areas. The 3mm lite-ply panels need some reinforcement. Ultimately; I tie the nacelles together with full-width spars made from that triangular ply stock. I'm trying to be mindful of added weight. I started this project envisioning the framework to be constructed like a "kite"... with 'skins" to control it. I'd like to apply a fully-symmetrical airfoil to the rigid central-section.. but I don't think there's enough "area" to make it worth the extra weight-penalty. We'll see.. I've thought about it.. and it depends partially on whether I can find a "wider" flex-panel for the tail. I save a LOT of plastic packaging for re-purposing.
Re: My N-1R build log
Looking good Roddie
akjgardner- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 1596
Join date : 2014-12-28
Age : 65
Location : Greensberg Indiana
Re: My N-1R build log
akjgardner wrote:Looking good Roddie
Thanks Joe, I hope to get more done tomorrow..
nacelle/strut integration
I'm "pinning" the .062" music-wire gear-struts into the nacelles tonight with epoxy.
The hardwood dowels provide the alignment for the discs to form the cylindrical framework for the nacelle. The finished nacelles will be two of the more distinct scale-like features of the craft.. and I want them to be sturdy enough to provide symmetrical strength across the thin cross-section of the central-structure.
The hardwood dowels provide the alignment for the discs to form the cylindrical framework for the nacelle. The finished nacelles will be two of the more distinct scale-like features of the craft.. and I want them to be sturdy enough to provide symmetrical strength across the thin cross-section of the central-structure.
Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Similar topics
» Guillows Cessna 150 build circa 1970 (Build Log)
» Looking for first RC build...
» Help Deciding on Kit
» look what rkflyer sent me and jack AGAIN!
» PT 19 Build
» Looking for first RC build...
» Help Deciding on Kit
» look what rkflyer sent me and jack AGAIN!
» PT 19 Build
Page 2 of 2
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum