My N-1R build log

rsv1cox Today at 8:05 am
Radically different roddie from the Cox Naboo. I'm interested to find out how your flex tail is going to work. Maybe you could construct a wind tunnel to test it. A fan and some duct work should do it. Suspend on a pedestal or strings.

Smooth roddie, really smooth.
I think that the only way to know if it's going to work.. is trial by fire..   There's no wing..   not even a sheet-wing..   Being set up for control-line; a whole different set of dynamics come into play.. as compared to free-flying. I chose a twin-engine design for two reasons. The "movie" version of the N-1 has twin-engines.. and I felt; using that configuration would provide some good power.. which as we all know is important.  

rdw777 Today at 10:17 am

Roddie wrote:  I'm lucky that she wants to join in my modeling madness..
 

You bet Roddie…. I’m lucky too…. After I finish one she tells me it’s her favorite.

Balance point stuff:…. On some of my RC’s in the past that had an unknown balance point I would make simple chuck gliders in a reduced size ….. Toss them around and balance with clay until they would glide…. Then move the balance point forward a little on the real one for a margin of safety…..I wonder if something similar could be done for intended CL?… A string and a dowel to pull it around the circle?….. I think the outline of your fighter as a simple flat plate would be sufficient…. Maybe even just a piece of cardboard or foam….Just a thought.

We're both lucky Robert! Things could be very different...







............... Balance point stuff.. I'll be testing this FlexEL control system.. and the only way to do that is with operative lead-outs with lines and a handle. The thrust of the engines is essential for that test. For all I know; giving down-elevator input could cause an opposite "flap-like" action. I'm pretty sure that either way; the model will rise and fall with the current controls. Whether it will "turn" remains to be seen..

getback Today at 12:53 pm
Hey man U going to leave the ass end flopping like that ? Bee interesting to see what will happen but I think it will bee a lot of up/down OR maybe it will fly like a bird with the tail feathers to guide it in the direction you are imputing? Either way it looks pretty darn Cool and Lynne want to help ( cant ask for more than that )

Eric.. do you really think that I would "leave the ass end flopping like that"..?



I love you man! I know what you mean though.. and I've wondered about it too. The forward controllable-section of the tail is NOT subject to "flapping/flopping"... it tapers rearward from that point.. and if there's flapping/flopping involved there; it might actually help to laterally stabilize the model at speed.

akjgardner Today at 1:39 pm

roddie wrote: I'm still dealing with my CA allergy from when I used it on my foam tires..

I used white glue on the foam parts of my ME109 and my FW 190 builds it made them rigid and I was able to paint them without melting the foam.

Yea.. I posted about that glue allergy almost 3 weeks ago Joe.. and today the weather turned and we got the first significant rain in more than a month... and my sinuses are even worse. I like the "lack of having to clamp".. and speed of assembly that the super-glues offer. I just need to provide absolute ventilation when I use them.

roddie wrote:akjgardner Today at 1:39 pm
roddie wrote: I'm still dealing with my CA allergy from when I used it on my foam tires..
I used white glue on the foam parts of my ME109 and my FW 190 builds it made them rigid and I was able to paint them without melting the foam.

Yea.. I posted about that glue allergy almost 3 weeks ago Joe.. and today the weather turned and we got the first significant rain in more than a month... and my sinuses are even worse. I like the "lack of having to clamp".. and speed of assembly that the super-glues offer. I just need to provide absolute ventilation when I use them.  

No wonder why I had a happy childhood!

Water based Aliphatic Carpenter's glue and Urethane Varnishes don't give me the same buzz nowadays!

Plus, it was easier to block spam callers in the old days!



Here is the best part of the "Good Old Days":

......... ............. I used my table saw this evening... and was concerned that the smoke detector outside the cellar door would go off........



Luckily it didn't.. My grandfather (mom's dad) gave me that saw.. and I think of him whenever I see it.. and especially when I use it.

It has a cast-iron table.. and a 1/2" arbor. I have to use adapter-rings on modern saw blades with 5/8" arbor-holes.



I needed to rip-down more 1/2" square stock to make a couple more "disc assemblies" for the engine-nacelles.



I'd been putting it off.. because it's a bit involved.

These are the first ones I did..







I'm using 5-minute epoxy.. but I'll let it cure overnight before using the hole-saw.

Yesterday I went to work on cutting-out a 2nd run of nacelle-discs. A bit of a different method used on these. I marked and drilled pilot-holes through my stock..









... then I turned the work-piece over and "scored" the plywood-side with the hole-saw; just breaking the surface.



... then I turn the work-piece back over to finish-up. This prevents "splintering" when the hole-saw breaks through.





No splintering like there was on the 1st discs..



The hole-saw mandrel's drill is 15/64" (.234").. and NOT 1/4" as I had assumed. This is why the 1st-run of discs would not fit on my 1/4" hardwood dowels. The 1/4" reference on the hole-saw packaging is referring to the "hex-drive"..

I used a 1/4 spade-bit to open-up the center-holes another .016"..........



These extra discs will allow me to establish the final-length of the nacelles, in order to finish them off.

I collected small sheet-metal screws when my job was taking computer-servers apart (AVR) some ten years ago. It was easy enough to do.. and I knew that I could use them. I'd sort them at home.. at my convenience.



I used the "shortest" ones in that assortment (1/4" length) to tie the two center-sections together.





I didn't want to "glue" those two components.. in case of an accident.



The cross-member that the nacelles mount to, needs reinforcement. I have options...... but want to keep that component a "bolt-on" with the option to swap it out. If there has to be a weak link in the design; better to be able to plan for it. The nacelle-to-cross-member joint is a "screw-mount". If one of the nacelles is involved in a "ground-strike" it should snap-off that side of the cross-member. The nacelles themselves are much less prone to damage.  

I gave them a little attention today too. The "backer-discs" are now tied-into the main nacelles with those little sheet-metal screws. This served to anchor the steel fender-washers on the outboard nacelle; for the purpose of counter-weighting the control-lines.





Just a single-screw on the inboard side.





The "lead-outs" might go right-through this void in-between the 1st and 2nd bulkhead-discs.





hey... NASA stuff wasn't pretty..

I need to weigh the model again.

I love what your doing with this model roddie........and I use those exact same sheet metal screws all the time just not in model building. You are going to need all the power that those Golden Bees generate. I'm not sure the "take-down " option is a favorable one. The scales will tell.

If you fly it and it flys great. Great! If it's a lead sled then you have had the fun in building. I have a few of those sleds and it's no loss to me.

Looking forward to your next installment.

Good engineering to plan for adjustments and repairability roddie…. You might even want to be able make changes down the road….. Also helpful for maintenance …. A unique looking machine for sure