Landing-gear tips

When I designed my Rare Bear for the 1st CEF Reed Speed contest (2014) I wanted a more scale/wider-stance on the mains; than what a standard inverted-V gear would provide... but I knew that my 1/8" balsa sheet-wing would need to support the two separate struts. What I did was to construct my sheet-wing with a 1/2-span strip-spar made of hardwood, for gear-blocks to tie-into.

The gear-blocks were also made from hardwood. I used some 3/8" (10mm) square-stock to make them. The block is first drilled-through and slotted to accept the music-wire. Once inserted into the block; the music wire can then be bent 90 degrees to lay in the slot. This will lock the strut in place when mounted to the spar.













The "mains" on my P38 had very similar hardwood gear-blocks.. except that they were "epoxied" into the 90 degree intersection of the sheet-wing and profile-fuse.

















I'll admit; it's the fabricating/building that I enjoy the most!  

rdw777 wrote:

Roddie wrote:I'll admit; it's the fabricating/building that I enjoy the most!  Smile

I like the building and fab part too Roddie….. Sometimes, Well maybe most of time, A part doesn’t exist to what we have envisioned ….With model building much of it tends to be mechanically oriented…..Fabbing the individual parts makes finished  “whole “ seem very satisfying

Yes indeed. I'm in awe... of some of the work that you've posted here Robert. If it's not fun.. it's not worth spending time on IMHO..

1975 control line guy wrote:Roddie,

I also picked up reamers to enlarge a hole if needed:

Ultra Fine 12 Pc Needle Reamer Set | 1/64" Size | Perfect for Jewelry Making | Includes Plastic Storage Case

SE 10-Piece Diamond-Coated Tapered Bead Reamer Set - 2-¾ Inch Length, ⅛-Inch Shank, Compatible with Rotary Tools - Ideal for Jewelry Making, Crafts, and More - DF83611

I already use the dremel and diamond cut off wheels in my shop.

I don't have any reamers... but I can see how they'd be useful for a lot of what I do. I have and maintain a full (fractional/#/letter) twist-drill index from .040" thru .500" diameter.



and a separate fractional-only index for everyday use.



I usually resort to these when I need to slightly enlarge a hole/bore.. but oftentimes they "grab" because of their radial twist.. which can cause problems. Straight-fluted reamers are a much better solution.

1975 control line guy wrote:I think I have found the reamers for my model airplane shop, carb reamers

Wow.. those are small!! For servicing carburetor jets?

Wheel retention on a flying model may need to be applied to the "inner-side" of the wheel.. especially if you want to use a wheel(s) which have a thin/streamlined cross-section. I use a paper-punch with .005" K & S brass sheet to make a "backing-plate" which is soldered onto your steel axle. An awl or small brad can be used to pierce the center of the little brass disc enough to push it onto the axle for soldering.



I had previously made a fuel-tank soldering-jig which has since served other applications.





Basically a pair of equal-size spruce-wood beams, T-nuts and matching machine-screws/flat-washers. An easy-to-make 3rd hand. I used the longest-length machine screws in my shop when I made mine.. but haven't needed to open the jaws up anywhere near that far.

I had some custom wheels that I wanted to use on my 1/2A C/L P-38.. and those wheels are only 3mm width. Axle "backing-plates" would guard against any binding of the wheel hubs.. so I made some and soldered them onto my axles. Soldering can be fun.. and I like the strength that it adds to the metal joints on landing gear components.











It may be obsessive.. but you don't want any of your airplane's wheel-hubs to bind-up on their axles.  

This would be very helpful on struts having less an angle than 90 degrees to the axle.. as with the popular inverted-V gear on numerous model-airplane designs.