Old CL Gee Bee

rdw777 wrote:Hi Jim, I checked today but looks like Monday then I’m out of town for a day or two….
I think you’re right about the OK Cub engine and radially mounted….. Another seller’s photo blown up a bit….. One has to wonder about the cowled engine mixing exhaust with intake….Unless it’s blown out enough thru the opening for the head….. I’d like to keep the Cub but will just have to try it and see….A Cox engine piped to the outside could be an option if needed….

The builder did a nice job of carving and shaping that baseball bat sized fuselage.

I saw a real Gee Bee at a local airshow doing real low and sloooow rolls and that was the most impressive thing I've ever seen an airplane do.
When I first got into the hobby and saw photos of those planes they looked ridiculous to me...like something out of a Popeye cartoon.
Especially with the propeller barely wider than the cowl..it just didn't look like it would work.

I agree TD, First glance it looks like the builder did a good job…. Picked it up this morning but on the road all day so it gets to ride along….. Looking forward to a better assessment in a few days

Thanks Bob!….Yes, I think it will come apart along that line….. It’s glued at the seam but the left side is already loose…. The glue is old a brittle so maybe a little careful work will get apart…. The aftermarket needle is good for a Cub, Nice long taper on it….The canopy and missing part of the fin was not included but shouldn’t be to hard to fab up…. I have a couple of small bottles of Aerogloss dope, Yellow and silver that will be good for touch ups…

WooHoo! Good for you, RDW. I look forward to the rehab.
Will you attempt to fly it?
I'm dying to see inside when you peel it open.

Thanks Jim!…. Yes, If we can get it mechanically sound would love to fly it….. We’ll get it weighed and measured and hopefully some of our CL expertise here on the forum can let me know what to expect….

I know I'm jumping the gun on this one...but I'm smitten!

Here is the Paul Del Gado oz8263 printed at 50%, with a product engine printed (at full-size, I hope) laid on the respective prints.

Seems to me this should work out just fine.

The needle is a Perfect flexible needle. They also made a ridgid version. I've found it really is in the spraybar that can make a lot of difference as well. Sometimes the Perfect needles work and sometimes the old OK versions work better.

One thing for certain, do not remove the cylinder if the piston is stuck to the cylinder walls. This is a older cub from the late 40's, the .049 and the .074 used similar bolt patterns and these two are interchangeable. I personally would avoid any disassembly if possible. The backplates of these engines changed over the years and one was magnesium and the later being aluminum. The mag versions can crumble and the tits with the notches will more or less break off if the improper wrench is used. I found the early version Wen-Mac wrench which uses similar style construction will fit the backplate. If heat and penetrating oil works to free it up, your better off and just run it. . The shim style gaskets used under the base of the cylinder typically tears as well. This early version OK uses a heavier rod vs the later production models. You don't want to destroy if you spin off the cylinder and the piston is stuck as it will instantly twist it.

It was easy to pop apart because of the very dry and brittle glue joint….. Looking at the inside makes it appear more like a kit to me…. I’ll probably try to get the wing and stabilizer separated as well…..The wing is solid balsa, Airfoiled, 3/16” thick, Flat on the bottom, Shaped on the top….Will be easier for repairs and to sketch it up separated too….





Thanks for the engine advice Ken…. Strangely, The back plate was only finger tight ….
The engine was free but very dry…. A little air tool oil lube produces a nice pop now….Maybe the original owner put it up well…..The best I can tell from Adrian’s model engine site this model Cub was produced from ‘49 to ‘53…
Fortunately it does not appear to have even been “plier-ed “…. Yes, I think only a good internal wash out and maybe a new plug and see if it’ll run….




It’s pretty heavy for its size IMO….
6.38 oz (181 grams)…. About 30 sq in of wing area…. That’s about 6 grams per sq in….Compared to my Jim Walker Firebaby at around 2 grams per sq in…. Three times as heavy wing load….. But that may be comparing apples to oranges…. The solid rubber wheels are 1-1/2”diameter and weigh 1/2 oz each…. I’ll probably build some lighter ones…. Found some old bottles of dope for touch ups….More as I get time to work on it …
   

It's good you have the aluminum backplate. Most of my magnesium versions are almost so corroded the indents are gone from oxidation. It also appears that the hollowed out portion of the belly pan was done by a machine vs by hand indicating that it might probably was a kit. I've experienced good success with this version Cub.

    The glow plug is a OK plug either a standard long G-2 or a short G-3. These are actually good glow plugs and I certainly wouldn't hesitate to use it.

         Assuming you didn't move that tank and reposition for a photo, that tank is positioned upside down and would not work for counterclockwise flying.

I can smell that Aero Gloss already. MMMMMM MMMMM, love the smell of silvaire aluminum in the morning.

I'm currently in the process of a hollow logger myself. It will also be Cub powered. This would be the Lil Stinker. I like to hollow until I can see light through the shell. I've come through in a few places already. It takes a lot of time to do these properly.

   




  A flying buddy started it and fouled it all up. I took it from him and I will finish it properly. He didn't sand anything or hollow. I suppose it would've made earth shattering landings if left.

RDW,

Great pictures!

What is the prop diameter?
What is the fuselage major diameter?
What is the fuselage length?

What is the wingspan?
What is the elevator/stabilizor span?

Thanks in advance.

I’m going to take your work on Lil Stinker as a prompt Ken to hollow out the Gee Bee some more to try and loose more weight…..Its little wing is going to need all the help it can get…..Will like to see how Lil Stinker turns out!!

Great choice of engines Bob…. Cubs and hollow logs just seem to go together…. Very abbreviated but two 2x3x12 blocks of balsa will do the job for the fuse…Probably tacked together to carve the outside then popped apart to carve the inside…. I’ll get some exact measurements for shapes soon…You’ve opened a can of worms Bob …. I like building but restorations offer some new challenges that are fun….

Hi Jim…

Prop diameter is 6”… Practically touching when the wings are leveled so I may have to try 5-1/2

Fuse max dia is 2-3/4” (width)…. I’ll get a better idea on height when I get the wing off..
Fuse is 9” long…. Short and fat!!!

Wingspan 13-1/2”…. 2-1/2” chord

Stab/elevator 5-3/8 span x 2-5/8” max chord

Here’s a straight overhead shot of it….

Its looking pretty easy pleasy so far with everything coming apart without a hitch. Don't seem to bee much damage to deal with either , your on the way to making a replica and or repair both now ?

Nice hollow log (emphasis on the ”log” ) model

Definitely looks more and more like a kit, must be quite a rare one though, since we don’t have a positive ID of the manufacturer yet. Looks very cool even without the distinctive wheel pants of the real one, the big wheels and indeed quite impressive fuselage make it look just right.