Thrust Washer

I think he may want drive plate. I call them thrust washers myself. Vendor has both of these items.

microflitedude wrote:I need a thrust washer for my Killer Bee.

Does the drive plate not go on far enough?
You can get steel ones if you don't use an electric starter.

EDIT: I wrote that before I saw Dan's post.

A steel thrust washer that will not extend past the crankcase neck OD. Not a drive plate.

Any particular reason for a steel One Matt?

The phenolics that Bernie sells are just a touch bigger than the crankcase neck OD's,,but you can carefully trim them down and get it right to the OD.

http://www.exmodelengines.com/product.php?productid=17658&cat=266&page=1

Matt

I have several that were removed from my Killer Bees, dont use em.
Shoot me your address and Ill mail you one

crankbndr wrote:I have several that were removed from my Killer Bees, dont use em.
Shoot me your address and Ill mail you one

PM sent.

RknRusty wrote:

microflitedude wrote:I need a thrust washer for my Killer Bee.

Does the drive plate not go on far enough?

Just wondering why you need a thrust washer.

Is the phenolic washer preferred, for starter users?
Yes guilty as charged, occasional starter user. John

RknRusty wrote:

RknRusty wrote:

microflitedude wrote:I need a thrust washer for my Killer Bee.

Does the drive plate not go on far enough?

Just wondering why you need a thrust washer.

Yes, I don't think it goes on far enough. Plus I think the original KBs had them. Not sure though.

microflitedude wrote:I need a thrust washer for my Killer Bee.
...I don't think it goes on far enough.

Add a washer or two on top of the prop you're using to pull the plate on. It may go on further.

microflitedude wrote:Plus I think the original KBs had them.

That doesn't necessarily mean it needs one.

I don't want to strip the threads though.

Your screw may have hit bottom before the drive plate was fully seated. If there is more room under where it already is, then you won't have to force it. A couple of washers will let you get it on the last bit. If it doesn't move any more with reasonable force, then you really do need a thrust washer.

RknRusty wrote:Your screw may have hit bottom before the drive plate was fully seated. If there is more room under where it already is, then you won't have to force it. A couple of washers will let you get it on the last bit. If it doesn't move any more with reasonable force, then you really do need a thrust washer.

I was using one of these things - http://coxengines.ca/assembly-tool-for-cox-.049-engines.html

I guess I could use a standard screw though.

I recently installed a steel thrust-washer on my Cox .049 reed-valve engine which will be used in a marine (pusher/wet prop) application. The thrust-washer was sourced from EX Model engines.. and designed for the purpose.

The nose of this crankcase is pretty well worn..

roddie wrote:I recently installed a steel thrust-washer on my Cox .049 reed-valve engine which will be used in a marine (pusher/wet prop) application. The thrust-washer was sourced from EX Model engines.. and designed for the purpose.

The nose of this crankcase is pretty well worn..  

We used to have a 'thrust washer' that would fit over the journal of the crankshaft to clean up some slop from worn crankcases similar to this case. I'm pretty sure they are all gone, but can take a look if your interested.

EXModelEngines wrote:

We used to have a 'thrust washer' that would fit over the journal of the crankshaft to clean up some slop from worn crankcases similar to this case. I'm pretty sure they are all gone, but can take a look if your interested.

Hi Matt, Thanks for your reply. No need to search for me.. (thank you anyway) I think I need to drill-out and install a 2nd thrust-washer to clear the crank journal.. or else the 1st washer is just going to grind-away on the front of the case.. same as a drive-plate would..   The whole idea is to provide some sort of bearing to lessen the friction between the surfaces.

Incidentally; the .049/.051 reed-valve crank journal's OD is .218" (7/32"). A #2 drill has a .221" dia. which would work.

I found a steel flat-washer in my stock.. with a .220" ID.. so I pulled the drive-washer off again, removed the thrust-washer and swapped-in this replacement. Re-installing the drive-washer was tricky.. because the new flat-washer tends to "slip-off" the crank journal.. onto the smaller diameter (.187") splined-end. My first attempt got "pinched" by the drive-washer.. which required a "nudge" in removal-mode to re-position it.

some pics..

I cut a "square" piece of scrap 1/2" thickness foam anti-fatigue matting.. more like 1/2" X 9/16".. and about one inch long.. for a tight fit into the back of the crankcase.



I found that this helped to initially set the splined-joint.. without having to poke a finger through the back of the crankcase to keep the crank from backing-out..



The 3/16 hex insert bit was pressed against the crank through the back of the case.. with a 5-40 stub-screw and spinner-hub against the opposing vise-jaw.

The end result was definitely worth the fuss.

Roddie, you solved your problem in a similar manner that I'd do. Amazing what a fertile brain with odds and ends can do.

Memory is a little hazy for the moment, but I think amongst my stash of parts that I purchased some of Ex Model Engine's thrust plate washers maybe about a year, year and a half ago.

These are a slick way to retain the original thrust plate but provide harder metal to mitigate crankcase and thrust plate wear, plus take up some backlash in pusher configeration.

It is a kinder gentler solution. Now it is out-of-pocket, but when I am in a better position, want to use such for two rear engine model kits I have yet to build, the Estes-Sterling Star Wars X-Wing profile and Y-Wing profile C/L half-A kits.

I have new engines for this, so the stock stainless Killer Bee thrust washers should work as the crankcases don't have the mileage of your engine.

The Use of two thrust washers I did the same with an engine that was very worn and the result was very good a gain in rpm was noted in the pusher configuration But we have to modify one so that it is possible to insert it so that would fit over the journal of the crankshaft And act in a way to reduce friction very effectively The engin is a sur start used with a choke tube carburetor Using any carburetor causes the crankshaft to suck inside the engine crankcase. When the engine is idling After several years of use This has worn out a lot of the crankcase and wit so mutch play I noticed that the crankshaft pin could touch the reed valve retainer And had even worn out the back plate part that retain the valve retainer And many here have probably already noticed this small drop of oil which accumulates at the end of the crank when the engine is running but with a carburetor it will always be sucked in when idling. Since I have had this problem now I always lubricate the thrust washer. Before starting.... choke tube carb effect of using a carburetor restrictor valve is that the oil and fuel does not get to that location it is sort of sucked in