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Cox Engine of The Month
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fredvon4's

"Tee Dee .049"



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Post  proctor on Sun May 27, 2012 12:20 pm

Hope you chaps have not been keeping the Dickybird Cox engine
a secret. Do Dickybirds mods to a TD 0.49 and what you get is:
Easy starting by hand.
No fuel draw problems.
Very low idle for as long as you like.
Instant pick up and smooth transition to only slightly reduced top end.
A little fiddling time with hand tools.
Details over on RCU under ' Powered by Dickybirds famous Cox engine'
Well if you all know about it I've got two questions about the
TD 0.049 anyway.
Does the small aluminium washer go on first before screwing on carb.
Should you use any sealant/thread lock on backplate, there's no
gasket and I found one of mine, not even hand tight.
I've done the mod and was very, very impressed. John
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Post  andrew on Sun May 27, 2012 12:44 pm

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Post  Surfer_kris on Sun May 27, 2012 1:17 pm

The link has a problem...

Is it this engine mod?; Wasp carb on TD
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Post  andrew on Sun May 27, 2012 1:47 pm

The link still opens for me. Do a search on the title: Powered by Dickeybirds Famous Cox Engine

The thread covered some of Milton's mods and is about 4 pages long.
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Post  Surfer_kris on Sun May 27, 2012 1:59 pm

I'm only getting this;

Dickybirds famous Cox engine Error_10
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Post  andrew on Sun May 27, 2012 2:38 pm

Now, I can only see pages 2 and 4 of the thread. Looks like RCU is still running at it's recent level of performance.

Here is another link: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_688342/anchors_688342/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#688342
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Post  John Goddard on Sun May 27, 2012 3:04 pm

But the link where the mods are suppoesd to be ain't there Andrew.
Sad
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Post  proctor on Sun May 27, 2012 5:41 pm

John, details of the mods are on page one of the four page thread.
The link opens fine for me and is basically this:
Drill TD 0.049 venturi out with 1/8" drill.
Glue in a piece of 1/8" K&S aluminium tubing using JB Weld, got JB Weld from
Amazon UK. Leave 24hrs to cure.
Use scalpel to blend in 1/8 tube to venturi shape.
Drill through the three tiny fuel holes (0.028")
I used 0.032"drill cause it was all I had, made no difference.
Use 3/32" drill like a file to clear any bits from drilling out tiny holes.
Change TD cyl/piston assy for a surestart one with the usual throttle ring.
Best cyl has two transfer and two booster ports and slit type exhaust port
and no spi. Use standard Babybee 3 fin head with three head shims.
Try link later John and it will work, had same problem.
john
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Post  Cribbs74 on Sun May 27, 2012 6:04 pm

proctor wrote:Hope you chaps have not been keeping the Dickybird Cox engine
a secret. Do Dickybirds mods to a TD 0.49 and what you get is:
Easy starting by hand.
No fuel draw problems.
Very low idle for as long as you like.
Instant pick up and smooth transition to only slightly reduced top end.
A little fiddling time with hand tools.
Details over on RCU under ' Powered by Dickybirds famous Cox engine'
Well if you all know about it I've got two questions about the
TD 0.049 anyway.
Does the small aluminium washer go on first before screwing on carb.
Should you use any sealant/thread lock on backplate, there's no
gasket and I found one of mine, not even hand tight.


I've done the mod and was very, very impressed. John

The small aluminum washer is usually for clearance when running a muffler. Are you running one? I think it goes between the venturi and NVB.
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Post  proctor on Sun May 27, 2012 6:28 pm

Thanks, no I'm not running a muffler with this mod but there was one
on engine as received.
BTW I'm running the Cox, black, square tipped 5x3 which Milton ( Dickybird)
advised. Says it pulls hard from slow speed and fast at high speed.
Milton knows his stuff so I hope you are reading this Rusty. Huh...
Have not flown with one yet though, but runs nice on bench.
John
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Post  ahrma_581 on Mon May 28, 2012 12:05 pm

proctor wrote:John, details of the mods are on page one of the four page thread.
The link opens fine for me and is basically this:
Drill TD 0.049 venturi out with 1/8" drill.
Glue in a piece of 1/8" K&S aluminium tubing using JB Weld, got JB Weld from
Amazon UK. Leave 24hrs to cure.
Use scalpel to blend in 1/8 tube to venturi shape.
Drill through the three tiny fuel holes (0.028")
I used 0.032"drill cause it was all I had, made no difference.
Use 3/32" drill like a file to clear any bits from drilling out tiny holes.
Change TD cyl/piston assy for a surestart one with the usual throttle ring.
Best cyl has two transfer and two booster ports and slit type exhaust port
and no spi. Use standard Babybee 3 fin head with three head shims.
Try link later John and it will work, had same problem.
john

Waiting for them to get to the part where you remove the TD crank/crankcase and replace it with Babe-Bee parts.... Popcorn
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Post  John Goddard on Tue May 29, 2012 6:15 am

proctor wrote:John, details of the mods are on page one of the four page thread.
The link opens fine for me and is basically this:
Drill TD 0.049 venturi out with 1/8" drill.
Glue in a piece of 1/8" K&S aluminium tubing using JB Weld, got JB Weld from
Amazon UK. Leave 24hrs to cure.
Use scalpel to blend in 1/8 tube to venturi shape.
Drill through the three tiny fuel holes (0.028")
I used 0.032"drill cause it was all I had, made no difference.
Use 3/32" drill like a file to clear any bits from drilling out tiny holes.
Change TD cyl/piston assy for a surestart one with the usual throttle ring.
Best cyl has two transfer and two booster ports and slit type exhaust port
and no spi. Use standard Babybee 3 fin head with three head shims.
Try link later John and it will work, had same problem.
john

John I think I've got most of the bits except for the tubing but more importantly
what kind of numbers do we get with this mod?
I got a very reliable 17.5 with my first incarnation of the shuretdstarty which
was a sure start with throttle ringed medallion cylinder and TD head.
Being a sure start at heart, it fired first spin of the spring and throttled better than
all my other Cox R/C efforts so far. The 'idle' was laughable at 9k but if you look at the vid you'll see it works
So point of the above is,- if making the above mods are we going to end up significantly better than
17,500 rpm on 25% and a Bernie WobbleMeister fluro Yellow 5x3?
P.S.
I've just noticed this was made before Bernies Yellow Perils
maybe it was a 6x3 who can remember........................?



Last edited by John Goddard on Wed May 30, 2012 5:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  proctor on Tue May 29, 2012 12:35 pm

Just run it on my fuel marked 20%Nitro but it could be plus or minus.
Was using a Cox tank mount and was astonished how quickly it
emptied. Used a yellow number, as you say Wobblemeister.
Top end was not an issue other than self induced deafness and the
first plug I have burnt out, over 19,000 but saw my dodgy tach
read 20,000. Idle was not great on this prop, no better than your
7000. Starting brilliant, first flick,transition great.
Now bear in mind I have just bushed out using only with 1/8" al tube.
Thread says 1/8 and then 3/32 but then goes on to suggest drilling
out very close to 3/32 with a number drill I don't have.
Discovered head shims are of varying thickness I would start with at least
4. Anyway you are the boy who is supposed to be making the mistakes
so we don't have to, so I will be watching this space.
Milton says #41 drill, 0.096" for venturi, #70, 0.028" for fuel feed holes. john
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Post  proctor on Tue May 29, 2012 12:58 pm

More an addendum than a reply.
Been thinking that the size for the fuel feed holes may be critical
at idle, should be 0.028" I drilled 0.032" but there is 3 of them.
When I run my first test I was using the cyl with just two transfer
ports and no boost ports and of course no spi, idle was much
better but didn't tacho it. John
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Post  RknRusty on Tue May 29, 2012 1:42 pm

proctor wrote:Thanks, no I'm not running a muffler with this mod but there was one
on engine as received.
BTW I'm running the Cox, black, square tipped 5x3 which Milton ( Dickybird)
advised. Says it pulls hard from slow speed and fast at high speed.
Milton knows his stuff so I hope you are reading this Rusty. Huh...
Have not flown with one yet though, but runs nice on bench.
John
Oh, I actually hadn't been following this thread, just happened to see my name. But that is correct about the 5x3, good torque and fast top end. Now I need to go back and read the whole thing.

Also, the hubs on those props are hard to balance. If you can't get it balanced after you balance the blades, position the heavy side of the hub 180 degrees opposite the piston throw (piston at TDC/hub pointed the other way). That adds to the already insufficient counterbalance that Cox engines inherently have.

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Post  RknRusty on Wed May 30, 2012 10:19 pm

I just now read up on the project. So it's all about de-tuning a Tee Dee to make it more RC friendly. Choke the Tee Dee venturi and open the shower holes to give it better fuel suction so it draws fuel more reliably, especially when throttled back. and give it a milder cylinder. Those Surestart cylinders are not as mildly ported as people originally assumed when they first appeared. But they did eliminate SPI, a necessity for use with an exhaust throttle.

You basically take a fire breathing Tee Dee .049 and castrate it to turn it into the equivalent of a Medallion .049 RC. No offense meant to Dickybird, an accomplished Cox guy. Wouldn't it be easier to just buy a Medallion? It's already tamely ported with a stronger fuel draw. I suppose you could reduce the venturi size on it too. The rest is already there.

Look at GermanBeez RC Medallion. It idles and transitions great.
Fast forward to 3:20 to hear its slowest idle.


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Post  proctor on Thu May 31, 2012 11:10 am

Your quite right of course Rusty but I have a Medallion throttled and
muffled and it is the business.
It is fun though to try and get the TD's top end with the Medallions
throttling and it's not really castration because only bit modified is
the venturi which is readily replaceable.
Was it successful, not entirely. Venturi sleeved with 1/8 tube gave great
starting, good throttling, 20,000 top end but not the idling of the medallion.
Sleeved out with 3/32 inside 1/8 tube and drilled out 5/64 gave
18,600 but no significant improvement in lowest idle but an engine
I would would be happy to put in a RC model just for easy handling at field.
Project over, not yet, must get a hold of the exact number drills Milton
specified and castrate another venturi Huh... .
John
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Post  RknRusty on Thu May 31, 2012 2:00 pm

proctor wrote:Your quite right of course Rusty but I have a Medallion throttled and
muffled and it is the business.
It is fun though to try and get the TD's top end with the Medallions
throttling and it's not really castration because only bit modified is
the venturi which is readily replaceable.
Was it successful, not entirely. Venturi sleeved with 1/8 tube gave great
starting, good throttling, 20,000 top end but not the idling of the medallion.
Sleeved out with 3/32 inside 1/8 tube and drilled out 5/64 gave
18,600 but no significant improvement in lowest idle but an engine
I would would be happy to put in a RC model just for easy handling at field.
Project over, not yet, must get a hold of the exact number drills Milton
specified and castrate another venturi Huh... .
John
Dickybirds famous Cox engine Laugh-1 That's cool, JP, experimentation is good. It might be the ultimate RC engine. I was in an especially smartass mood when I made that last post.

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Post  Surfer_kris on Thu May 31, 2012 2:27 pm

The ultimate throttled cox TD style would be the .05RC engine I guess. Carbs are now easily available and the only thing missing is the muffler which is harder to find. The 05RC spins a 6x3 prop with more authority than in the video above.

For a comparison on a 6x3 prop, 10% nitro, and low compression head;
(it will do 17200 with a little higher compression setting)

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Post  John Goddard on Thu May 31, 2012 4:09 pm

Surfer_kris wrote:The ultimate throttled cox TD style would be the .05RC engine I guess. Carbs are now easily available and the only thing missing is the muffler which is harder to find. The 05RC spins a 6x3 prop with more authority than in the video above.

Au Contraire
http://coxengineforum.forumakers.com/t2543-raw-power-three

Wink


Last edited by RknRusty on Thu May 31, 2012 5:05 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Fixed quote tags)
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Post  microflitedude on Thu May 31, 2012 4:51 pm

Check this out.

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Post  Surfer_kris on Thu May 31, 2012 4:56 pm


That's an .09 engine though?

There are also the RC conversions for the Medallions, here is a little line-up with the .05 and .09 engines;

Dickybirds famous Cox engine Img_1710
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Post  microflitedude on Thu May 31, 2012 4:58 pm

That slider exhaust throttle is the best....
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Post  Surfer_kris on Thu May 31, 2012 5:02 pm

microflitedude wrote:That slider exhaust throttle is the best....

And the loudest at full throttle...
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