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TD .049 carb body wanted. Empty TD .049 carb body wanted.

Post  RknRusty Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:02 pm

I noticed mine was cracked badly while cleaning the engine. I see Bernie has the plastic ones, but I'm thinking of going with aluminum. I've heard good and not so good about them.

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Post  Jason_WI Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:20 pm

I think when the first aluminum carb bodies came out they did not have teflon gaskets with them and they tended to leak. I assembled the one I have with clear RTV to seal up against the crankcase. Just a thin film is all that is needed.

I perfer the plastic ones but that is just me.
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:46 pm

Jason_WI wrote:I think when the first aluminum carb bodies came out they did not have teflon gaskets with them and they tended to leak. I assembled the one I have with clear RTV to seal up against the crankcase. Just a thin film is all t
hat is needed.

I perfer the plastic ones but that is just me.

I agree, the plastic ones look more the part. However, performance and longevity of the aluminum ones are a perfect fit for the runners.
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Post  Ken Cook Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:03 am

Although I'm a big fan of the aluminum carb bodies, the plastic works. The cracked carb body can be easily fixed. A piece of K&S 3/8 brass tubing fits over the molded part tightly. It can be inserted over the plastic then scribed around the tubing using a Sharpie. File the brass to fit the angle of the carb body while also filing the radius of the carb body onto the underside. I then used a razor saw to cut off the part leaving it a bit proud of the top of plastic.

I proceed to sand lightly on the plastic and using a Q-tip I apply epoxy around the perimeter of the plastic carb stem. The brass ring / collar can now be installed tightly around the plastic stem. Use another Q-tip and alcohol to clean the threads of any epoxy that squeezed through the cracks and into the threaded area. The following day, stuff cotton ball or pieces of towel into the threaded carb body hole. Proceed to file the brass that was left proud of the body back down flush. I've done several and can provide pictures if requested.

One extremely nice feature of the aluminum body is that if you plant the bird nose in, when you pull the plane out of the ground you have a guaranteed insurance the venturi and needle valve body isn't going to stay in the dirt and be lost. The o-ring version also helps keep dirt out of the crankcase as well in this situation. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:13 am

This crack goes all the way down the threaded throat and continues on to the front end. It's busted wide open so I don't know if the usual fix would seal it. JB Weld might help, but I'll just wait till i get a new one. maybe I can turn the old one into a spare.

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Post  Ken Cook Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:38 am

Good point Rusty, that one sounds like it served it's useful life and now has become a gift to the god of speed. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:31 am

It's probably brittle. It's a very old one without the molded brace. I see a nice one on the bay for $15 and a dollar shipping, but I'm leaning toward the frugal choice of Bernie or Matt. I need to check Ex Model Engines.

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