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Post  Cox International Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:14 pm

We will be stocking some black oxided socket head screws, matching washers, blind nuts (and Tee nuts for 4-40). If I measured correctly:

2-56 is for .010 and .020
3-48 is for Babe Bee and Tee Dee .049
4-40 is for .049 with production backplates

The question is what sortiment of lenghts for each size should we stock? We would like to limit stock to what Cox modellers use and we will presumably sell.

For 2-56: 1/2" ?
For 3-48: 3/4" ?
For 4-40: 3/4" & 1" ?

Blind (self-locking) nuts for sure for all sizes?
Also regular nuts w. washers, yes/no?
Tee nuts where available?

Input / suggestions?



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Post  pkrankow Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:01 pm

I am so used to having to cut whatever I can find so it isn't too long! If they are completely threaded 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch makes me happy, they are easy to cut.

Phil

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Post  ian1954 Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:09 pm

I would like 1 1/4 inch - they are easy to cut and trim. Spring washers would be an advantage too.
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Post  Cox International Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:59 pm

My preference would be to offer correct sizes/lenghts, ready-to-use, seeing that we have a substantial amount of "newbies" to the hobby that buy from us.
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Post  pkrankow Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:26 pm

The engine mounting bolts on my Baby Ringmaster (original production from more than 20 years ago) are 1/2 inch long. It has a sheet metal motor mount.

Phil
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Post  RknRusty Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:54 pm

My short answer for 2-56 engine mounting bolts is:
3/4" if nuts and lock washers(or nylock nuts), and thrust plates are used to secure the engine.
1/2" if blind nuts are used (this eliminates the need for one of the metal thrust plates but may not accommodate Nylocks).

My long answer for 2-56 engine mounting bolts is:
For the Tee Dee Beam mount on a plane with a 1/4" fuselage, the screw passes through a washer, the engine mount, another 2 washers for thrust offset, and a 1/16" metal thrust plate on each side of the fuse, then another washer and nut or a self-locking nylock nut. You have to have at least 3/4" for all that. (If blind nuts are used I eliminate the extra hardware on the opposite side of the engine)

I would say the same for the 3-48 as that might be better for a uhhh... NorvelSmile

EDIT: Tell ya what, tomorrow morning I'll go out to the shop and try to simplify the answer.

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Post  microflitedude Fri Jan 04, 2013 10:03 pm

Whoooo!!

Been waiting a while for this stuff. Smile
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Post  andrew Fri Jan 04, 2013 10:18 pm

pkrankow wrote:I am so used to having to cut whatever I can find so it isn't too long! If they are completely threaded 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch makes me happy, they are easy to cut.
Phil
COX International wrote:
My preference would be to offer correct sizes/lenghts, ready-to-use, seeing that we have a substantial amount of "newbies" to the hobby that buy from us.

I can fully understand a need to provide appropriately sized screws for the newbie, but I agree with Phil on this one. There are so many different applications and needs for varying lengths, I always bulk buy a single long length and cut to size as needed. In any event, I almost always end up cutting to length anyway, even if it's an 1/8" or less.

But, I'm guess I'm not a newbie; heck, I'm even beyond oldie --- maybe an extra oldie. Sad
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Post  iskandar taib Sat Jan 05, 2013 3:54 am

I use 3/4" 3-48 bolts to mount Tee Dees and Norvels and the like on beam mounts. SIG sells round pan head ones in bulk, I bought a bag of them years ago. So I'd say 3/4" would be about right for 3-48.

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Post  Surfer_kris Sat Jan 05, 2013 9:12 am

Matching bolts and blindnuts are a good idea. I can under stand that you want to go with imperial threads but the for the rest of us a metric solution would be better.

The best match I have found for the Pee Wee are M2 bolts (allen key head) and the blind nuts (in aluminium) made by MP Jet. For larger engines there are also M3 blind nuts with too different lengths (the short ones are fine a typical plywood firewall). Here is a pee wee with an M2 screw and blindnut to show what it looks like;

Need help selecting socket screws Img_0610
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Post  Surfer_kris Sat Jan 05, 2013 9:31 am

Here is another example, a TD 05RC, M2 all around and the Aluminium blind-nuts from MP Jet in the firewall (I can check the bolt lengths too, if anyone is interested );

Need help selecting socket screws Img_1312
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Post  Cox International Sat Jan 05, 2013 11:38 am

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Looks as if the 3 popular sizes for all 3 bolts are:
1/2"
3/4"
1" or longer for the modellers that like to cut to length.

For the "nut" part 3 different solutions:
Regular nuts & washers
Self-locking nuts with the Nylon inserts
Blind nuts that embed themselves in the wood

I am thinking that regular nuts and washers may not be necessary if there are self-locking nuts available? Trying to keep the # of products to a minimum but still present options that will be purchased.

Personally, I am 100% Metric and struggle with the Imperial measurement system but adding all Metric equivalents doubles the fastener inventory and I am not sure if we can do this at the moment.

We will also get some #2 and #3 sheet metal screws in a couple of lenghts.
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Post  pkrankow Sat Jan 05, 2013 11:47 am

1/2 inch on the sheet metal screws please. That is about perfect for going through the engine back plate and through a 1/8 inch bulkhead glued to balsa. Maybe a little shorter would be nice too, but if it is too long I cut them down and don't think too hard about it.

Phil
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Post  Cox International Sat Jan 05, 2013 2:01 pm

pkrankow wrote:1/2 inch on the sheet metal screws please. That is about perfect for going through the engine back plate and through a 1/8 inch bulkhead glued to balsa. Maybe a little shorter would be nice too, but if it is too long I cut them down and don't think too hard about it.

Phil

The plan was for 1/2" and 3/4".
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