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Post  14tylbow on Sat Jan 05, 2013 10:28 pm

i wonder how cox engines are made. how do they build the piston and connecting rod in one piece with a ball joint? how do they make the ball joint in the piston?
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Post  pkrankow on Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:04 am

The socket is drilled with a collar, the collar is then swaged onto the ball of the connecting rod. It isn't a one piece affair, and it really isn't super high tech in the design.

The materials however, that was cutting edge for the time and is still pretty darn good stuff now!

Phil
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Post  SuperDave on Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:11 pm

Ditto Phil's comment above.

Consider how long ago those Cox engines were produced, the numbers manfactured and what made them so appealing to so many.

Rumor has it that Leroy Milburn Cox has been nominated for Sainthood. cheers
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Post  14tylbow on Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:33 pm

pkrankow wrote:The socket is drilled with a collar, the collar is then swaged onto the ball of the connecting rod. It isn't a one piece affair, and it really isn't super high tech in the design.

The materials however, that was cutting edge for the time and is still pretty darn good stuff now!

Phil

what exactly does that mean? the collar is then swaged onto the ball?
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Post  Surfer_kris on Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:38 pm

Here is a cut-through (by "altidsulten") that shows the attachment;

curious about cox engines B10
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Post  14tylbow on Sun Jan 06, 2013 4:00 pm

Surfer_kris wrote:Here is a cut-through (by "altidsulten") that shows the attachment;

curious about cox engines B10

wow thanks, that actually explains alot. some time last sommer i thought it would be cool if i could make one of these nitro engines from a few pieces of aluminum but i dont have a lathe, so i have been just using a drill and my hands. i made a few piston and sleeve sets but they werent quite right. i couldnt ever figure out how to make the piston pin but maby i can make that ball joint. i was trying to make a tiny replica of my traxxas 3.3 engine but cox might be easier to make.
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Post  SuperDave on Sun Jan 06, 2013 4:31 pm

Without the proper equipment and the knowledge to use it you'll pretty much SOL.
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Post  ekitten2 on Sun Jan 06, 2013 4:49 pm

alass we all have dreams

i to dream of a 049 twin...an then a opposed 4 cly cox to run in my lil cub j 3

<<( drifts off to wonder land).....
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Post  pkrankow on Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:12 pm

I think it can be done. My brother made a crude operating steam engine without a lathe when he was 14.

If you research making small engines with the correct tools, inspiration may strike for making them lacking the most important of the tools (the lathe). Steam and air engines are a common machinist student advanced project. There is a lot of information available if you look for it.

So called "popcorn engines" are just awesome!

Phil
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Post  14tylbow on Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:21 pm

SuperDave wrote:Without the proper equipment and the knowledge to use it you'll pretty much SOL.

i know how to use a lathe and all that equipment, and i think im a pretty good welder i just dont have $400 for one and i tried making a tiny oscilating steam engine and its mostly done except i need more metal for the connecting rod.
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Post  fredvon4 on Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:36 pm

As many times as I have seen that photo, I never noticed the funnel shape of the venturi.

This begs the question: When we enlarge the inlet of the back plate and then the inlet of the Tank venturi should we have a conical reamer to slightly increase the diameter and volume of the entire manifold and not just the inlet

I see a set of tapered Diamond reamers in my kit from MicroMark

http://www.micromark.com/diamond-reamers-set-of-10,9378.html
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Post  John Goddard on Sun Jan 06, 2013 6:57 pm

ekitten2 wrote:alass we all have dreams

i to dream of a 049 twin...an then a opposed 4 cly cox to run in my lil cub j 3

<<( drifts off to wonder land).....

I dream of being called Loretta and having babies.

ooooooopps wrong forum
lol!
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Post  ahrma_581 on Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:16 pm

fredvon4 wrote:As many times as I have seen that photo, I never noticed the funnel shape of the venturi.

This begs the question: When we enlarge the inlet of the back plate and then the inlet of the Tank venturi should we have a conical reamer to slightly increase the diameter and volume of the entire manifold and not just the inlet

You'd have to be very careful to not chinger up the crank end throat where the reed seat is. Bad reed seat and all work opening up intake goes down the porcelain. Probably enough to just smooth the transition where the intake is enlarged.
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Post  ekitten2 on Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:03 pm

<< giggel snorts at Goddard...im a memb or that forum as well
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Post  RknRusty on Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:41 pm

fredvon4 wrote:As many times as I have seen that photo, I never noticed the funnel shape of the venturi.

This begs the question: When we enlarge the inlet of the back plate and then the inlet of the Tank venturi should we have a conical reamer to slightly increase the diameter and volume of the entire manifold and not just the inlet

I see a set of tapered Diamond reamers in my kit from MicroMark

http://www.micromark.com/diamond-reamers-set-of-10,9378.html
If you went much bigger there wouldn't be enough vacuum to draw fuel. Just opening the small end of the venturi can make it fall on its face. Some people have opened the outlet behind the reed, but like Ahrma said, don't foul the reed seat.
That engine in the picture is not a reed valve engine, by the way, it has a rear rotary valve.

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Post  Cribbs74 on Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:57 pm

I never noticed the rotor........ Laughing

Anyway so when doing the .082 mouse mod you do not drill all the way through? I must have read it wrong.

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Post  SuperDave on Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:34 am

"I dream of being called Loretta and having babies." - Johnny Boy

Visualize the image of JB in "drag" affraid and on prowl for a mate. Clapping



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Post  RknRusty on Mon Jan 07, 2013 1:05 pm

cribbs74 wrote:...so when doing the .082 mouse mod you do not drill all the way through? I must have read it wrong.

Ron
Just turn the .082" bit through the venturi tube opening, that's all. You're only drilling air past that.

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Post  ahrma_581 on Mon Jan 07, 2013 3:56 pm

RknRusty wrote:That engine in the picture is not a reed valve engine, by the way, it has a rear rotary valve.

WHAT???? Are RR1's so common in Denmark they can afford to chop them in half???

(Think the 'rotor' is the reed clip...)
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Post  ian1954 on Mon Jan 07, 2013 4:30 pm

Tis not an RR1 but has a rear disc.
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Post  microflitedude on Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:59 pm

Yeah, thats a reed circlip on a plain Babe Bee...
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Post  fredvon4 on Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:02 pm

14TYLBOW

Two things:

I lived in Anoka MN briefly for sixth and seventh grades at springlake park while my dad commanded Twin Cities Army Ammunition plant in the sixties.....small world

In one of your posts you said something like making one of "these nitro engines"

Some of us old pharts always cringe whenever these engines are referred to as "NITRO" engines. It is true that some internal combustion 2 stroke engines do benefit from nitro methane added to the "glow" fuel....most will run just fine without ANY NITRO. In this case the fuel is primarily Methanol (one of the alcohols) and the ignition is sustained by a catalytic reaction of this alcohol with platinum in the "glow" plug.

Gasoline engines usually use a 10,000 to 60,000 volt spark jumped across and air gap in a "spark plug".

You are welcome to use the terms you learned and seem to be prevalent in the hobby

....I am just letting you know that this "NITRO" term, is really a marketing bunch of stuff started by the RC car guys to make it sound like all of them had some 3500 HP fire breather under the hood....grin
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Post  Mark Boesen on Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:09 pm

yep, i think you're right on that gas car thing, we always called 'em 'gas powered' models, even though there was no gas in the fuel, probably a carry over from the 'olden days' but it was always 'glo fuel'
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