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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Oct 08, 2011 3:14 pm

Hello. I have been planning on getting a diesel for a while. I have read up about them and now know how it all works now. I was wondering if I could just dieselize my current tanked motor. I didn't know if they could run right with a tank. The motor runs beautifully on nitro swinging a 6 x 4 prop at full speed. It also has way more compression than any of my motors. I have to flick it backwards to get it to run forwards. I have tried several times and this is the only way to get it to run forward. I use a papermate 80% recycled material pen as a chicken stick.


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Post  gcb Sat Oct 08, 2011 4:27 pm

Jacob,

The crankshaft on the reed engines is a bit weak for diesel use. You will need a special crankshaft.

You will need the diesel conversion head.

If you used silicone for your fuel pickup inside the tank, you will need diesel tubing (diesel fuel causes silicone to swell).

If your local hobby shop does not have them, Cox International has all of those things.

Good luck.

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Post  nitroairplane Sat Oct 08, 2011 6:17 pm

You will also need some diesel fuel you can make your own or buy it from: Eric Clutton(doctor diesel), Aerodyne or Davis diesel.
If you want you can alsonw swing a larger prop as a diesel.
I recomend a MECOA head and not a Davis one as the coutergaskets are bot nice to work with buy O rings in the MECOA heads are great.
Yes you should buy a killer crank but not essential if you are good with diesels I have seen them run stock as diesel. You may make a simple head by using discs cut from
Drinks cans under the head and you then have a fixed compression engine.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Oct 08, 2011 6:48 pm

How can I tell if one of my engines has a killer crankshaft. I bought a high performance engine and I am not sure what it has. This engine is not tanked.
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Post  microflitedude Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:25 pm

Godsey3.0 wrote:How can I tell if one of my engines has a killer crankshaft. I bought a high performance engine and I am not sure what it has. This engine is not tanked.

The one on the right is a Killer Bee crankshaft, the left is a standard reedie shaft.

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Post  Godsey3.0 Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:58 pm

Ok I am getting ready to buy this engine: http://coxengines.ca/product.php?productid=454&cat=36&page=1
I know I need fuel and different fuel lines. Can I use the same fuel tank or do I need a different one?
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Post  SuperDave Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:17 pm

I wouldn't mix two different fues (glo & diesel) in the same tank and risk contamination.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:25 pm

What if I had a new tank. Would it be fine?
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Post  microflitedude Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:49 pm

Most glow tanks are compatible, but they vary. Sullivan makes a small 1oz tank with an optional gas stopper. That would be a good choice. I think you get around 20 mins of flying time.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Thu Oct 13, 2011 8:59 pm

Ok. Thanks.
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Post  nitroairplane Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:56 am

Godsey3.0 wrote:What if I had a new tank. Would it be fine?

I do not reccomend plastic tanks or furl bottles for diesel because some will melt.
Also ether does not want to be contained so it will go through the tank walls on some plastic tanks.
I would go with a tin wedge tank.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Fri Oct 14, 2011 5:51 am

How to those wedge tanks work. I see three tubes. Do they have a pick up line in them?
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Post  andrew Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:43 am

The tube coming out the top of the tank runs to the bottom. The tube coming out of the bottom runs to the top. So regardless of orientation or the plane (upright or inverted), one tube will serve as a vent and neither tube will leak fuel. The tube coming out the front runs along the wedge all the way to the back -- as the plane flies in the circle and thru manuvers, fuel is slung to the outside, into the wedge part and back of the tank (the tank mounts on the outboard side of the plane), so the fuel pickup tube is able to suck the last fuel remaining.
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Post  nitroairplane Fri Oct 14, 2011 3:37 pm

andrew wrote:The tube coming out the top of the tank runs to the bottom. The tube coming out of the bottom runs to the top. So regardless of orientation or the plane (upright or inverted), one tube will serve as a vent and neither tube will leak fuel. The tube coming out the front runs along the wedge all the way to the back -- as the plane flies in the circle and thru manuvers, fuel is slung to the outside, into the wedge part and back of the tank (the tank mounts on the outboard side of the plane), so the fuel pickup tube is able to suck the last fuel remaining.

The only diss-advantages are that they are slightly heavier for their size and do not use back pressure.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sun Oct 16, 2011 11:16 am

What size prop should I use for this engine. Can it handle a 7 inch?
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Oct 16, 2011 2:05 pm

Godsey3.0 wrote:What size prop should I use for this engine. Can it handle a 7 inch?

Yes it will take a 7 very happily actually i have run them on 9 inches.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:47 pm

9 Inch?!? Does it bog it down a whole lot or does it take it with stride?
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:55 pm

Godsey3.0 wrote:9 Inch?!? Does it bog it down a whole lot or does it take it with stride?

it took it rather well and actually me and Beez did a swap so he now has that prop and is going to try it on his texaco .049.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:35 pm

Well got the motor ordered. Now we wait.
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Post  RknRusty Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:28 pm

andrew wrote:The tube coming out the top of the tank runs to the bottom. The tube coming out of the bottom runs to the top. So regardless of orientation or the plane (upright or inverted), one tube will serve as a vent and neither tube will leak fuel. The tube coming out the front runs along the wedge all the way to the back -- as the plane flies in the circle and thru manuvers, fuel is slung to the outside, into the wedge part and back of the tank (the tank mounts on the outboard side of the plane), so the fuel pickup tube is able to suck the last fuel remaining.

Andrew is describing control line flying where the centripetal force keeps the fuel forced into the wedge. Is this what you plan to use it for, Godsey?
If you are not doing C/L I don't think a wedge is going to work well for you. It will suck air prematurely unless you turn left the whole flight like a NASCAR driver.

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Post  nitroairplane Mon Oct 17, 2011 4:13 am

RknRusty wrote:
andrew wrote:The tube coming out the top of the tank runs to the bottom. The tube coming out of the bottom runs to the top. So regardless of orientation or the plane (upright or inverted), one tube will serve as a vent and neither tube will leak fuel. The tube coming out the front runs along the wedge all the way to the back -- as the plane flies in the circle and thru manuvers, fuel is slung to the outside, into the wedge part and back of the tank (the tank mounts on the outboard side of the plane), so the fuel pickup tube is able to suck the last fuel remaining.

Andrew is describing control line flying where the centripetal force keeps the fuel forced into the wedge. Is this what you plan to use it for, Godsey?
If you are not doing C/L I don't think a wedge is going to work well for you. It will suck air prematurely unless you turn left the whole flight like a NASCAR driver.


Why not you put the wedge at the back so it will always draw fuel.
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Oct 17, 2011 4:17 am

Godsey3.0 wrote:Well got the motor ordered. Now we wait.
Is it a Davis head?
Watch out for those countergaskets you may want to make some out of aluminium can so they don't burst.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Mon Oct 17, 2011 5:42 am

It is not a Davis head. It is a Diesel Bomber from coxengines.ca
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:52 am

Godsey3.0 wrote:It is not a Davis head. It is a Diesel Bomber from coxengines.ca


Ok but tha still has a non branded Davis head on it.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Mon Oct 17, 2011 3:15 pm

What is the counter gasket. Is it the teflon discs it talk about on the item description?
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