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"Tee Dee .020 on a free-flight model"



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Post  ZACATTACK on Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:09 pm

Just recieved a New .15 Tee Dee...It wont budge..I mean this engine has not been out of the packaging, It is new..Not a mark on it, not a mark on the glow head. Looks like the first time out the package in decades. Do i soak this in fuel first for 24 hrs? Need some advice guys..I dont want to wreck it ! Im sending some engines down to EX Models so Matt can do some work on the really rare engines I have but have'nt found the time to pack and ship. I read a good soaking for24 hrs in fuel? Then what if that works? What if it does'nt? Need some advise. Thanks Again!
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Post  Mudhen on Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:29 pm

Hi ZACATTACK,
If the engine’s new in the package, then why restore it?
An external cleaning will renew the appearance of the engine. That’s what I might recommend. But unless you intend to run it, then there’s no need to risk damaging the engine just to free it up. One can temporarily free the engine with rubbing alcohol and heat. But the only way to permanently free the motor is to completely disassemble it. And that’s the risk. You may wind up damaging the engine for no purpose. NIP engines are nice to have, especially the older, more difficult ones to acquire. But the more one tampers with it the more likely one is to damage and devalue the engine.
Mud
BTW - That's just this collector's point of view. If you want to run it, then that's a different story.
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Post  EXModelEngines on Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:46 pm

I would echo what Mud said if you never plan to take it out of the package. Having said that, personally, I like to free up all my engines new or not. lol!

A little heat will allow you to free the engine and then you can take it apart from there. If you are going to take it apart partially, might as well take apart the whole engine and clean it properly. It is a service we offer, if you would like this engine done as well.

Matt
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Post  ZACATTACK on Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:16 pm

Soaking the engine in original fuel wont do anything? Heat on a NIB motor? Im on the fence ...Agree with Mud on that one but it is nice to have them work as they should.... Im not intending on running any of my engines but having them work as they should is only proper in my books? So in essense...A seized NIB is still worth just as much? Lew
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Post  WingingIt74 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:29 pm

If it's seized, it makes me question if it's truly NIB...
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Post  EXModelEngines on Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:32 pm

ZACATTACK wrote:Soaking the engine in original fuel wont do anything? Heat on a NIB motor? Im on the fence ...Agree with Mud on that one but it is nice to have them work as they should.... Im not intending on running any of my engines but having them work as they should is only proper in my books? So in essense...A seized NIB is still worth just as much? Lew

I usually use heat, so it will turn over, then take it apart and clean. Fuel is a good option sometimes, but if it has really been sitting for a while it may not do the trick.

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Post  EXModelEngines on Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:34 pm

WingingIt74 wrote:If it's seized, it makes me question if it's truly NIB...

A fair question Travis, especially if one bought an engine from eBay. However, I have come across a lot of engines that are new and seized. This is usually due to the hardening of the original lubricant Cox used when assembling the engines. Happens a lot actually. Several factors may increase this such as time, temperature, ect.

Matt
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Post  ZACATTACK on Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:46 pm

Just soaked it fuel for 20 mins as I have been typing and all is well cheers ...It has tons of compression. It is not from Ebay, it comes from a friend who is a collector and unavailable at the moment, you can question whether this engine was new or not, but in defense of my collection, if you seen this engine in front of you, in your hands, you would know exactly what I'm saying and talking about.Anyway, I think it's never been out of the package since new, so when my friend says it's NIB...it's NIB and may be seized!!Im happy again!!...Should I use some after run oil now?..really dont need to take it apart now do I?. Blow out the fuel with compressed air?THANKS!! The prop screw had a hard time coming out aswell...the threads on the end that were mated with the drive plate have a white looking residue on them. I guess it is from the factory lubricant getting gummed up.
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Post  EXModelEngines on Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:27 pm

ZACATTACK wrote:Just soaked it fuel for 20 mins as I have been typing and all is well cheers ...It has tons of compression. It is not from Ebay, it comes from a friend who is a collector and unavailable at the moment, you can question whether this engine was new or not, but in defense of my collection, if you seen this engine in front of you, in your hands, you would know exactly what I'm saying and talking about.Anyway, I think it's never been out of the package since new, so when my friend says it's NIB...it's NIB and may be seized!!Im happy again!!...Should I use some after run oil now?..really dont need to take it apart now do I?. Blow out the fuel with compressed air?THANKS!! The prop screw had a hard time coming out aswell...the threads on the end that were mated with the drive plate have a white looking residue on them. I guess it is from the factory lubricant getting gummed up.

Yes, factory residue is usually an issue when the engines sit for log periods of time. If you do not take the entire engine apart it may seize up again at some point since the fuel has castor in it.

Matt
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Post  Mark Boesen on Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:34 pm

Glad you got'er freed up.

What to use to free up an engine is like what hinge to use on your stunter, there's several ways to go and most don't really make a big difference as often they accomplish the same things.

However there are a few things I feel compelled to harp upon:

Don't let a engine soak in fuel for a long time, fuel contains nitro and alcohol, alcohol will absorb moisture, moisture and nitro are corrosive to aluminum. Much like brake fluid, it works great for quick cleans but it can really mess up a engine.

When disassembling a engine always use heat, but on a Tee Dee you got to be care of the plastic. And yes, most 45 year old NIB engines will be stuck.

I would lube it really good with some oil (another debate) but be careful you don't get it on the box...
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Post  WingingIt74 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:37 pm

I used heat for the first time last night... at first it didn't work until it soaked in. Works very well for a super seized engine.
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Post  pkrankow on Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:38 pm

If you wash it in denatured alcohol you can displace the bulk of the castor oil. Then follow up with a petroleum oil, like 3in1 or after run oil.

It will probably gum up again in 10+years.

Put it on paper towel until you are sure the oil won't transfer. This may take several days to make sure.

Phil
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Post  Jason_WI on Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:48 pm

Dont use 3in1 oil at all. It will evaproate and leave a glue like substance behind and the motor will be stuck again. I had to go through 150 engines because of the 3in1 glue. Lots of time wasted when you have to completly break down a 4 stroke engine and clean in denatured alcohol to remove the glue then re-assemble again. Most times I had to make new gaskets which I cut by hand on the larger engines.

I use 2 cycle engine oil to lube all of my engines big and small. Never had an issue with it at all so far after 2 years of storage they are all free yet.

Also do not place the engine back in the package with any fuel left behind. It will stain the printed cardboard insert and really de-value your investment. Also any added oil will seep out the front of the crankshaft area and leak out staining your cardboard insert. A stained cardboard insert can subtract $100 on the value of a rare engine instantly.

You should have just used heat to free it up if you wanted to turn it.

Restoring and cleaning engines is the best part of the hobby. Can't believe you are going to outsource that! I get board and I buy engines just to fix them up for something to do.
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Post  pkrankow on Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:16 pm

I never knew 3in1 turned to glue on its own in engines. I have not had problems with it in the past in that manner, and I use it on a lot of things, although not frequently on engines.

Phil
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Post  Cribbs74 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:39 pm

I use this stuff. Have used it for years. It's a paraffin based turbine oil that is non-gumming.

I thought I was the only one until I saw all the CL guys had it in their flight boxes.



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Post  dckrsn on Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:45 pm

Yup, agree.
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Post  ZACATTACK on Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:49 pm

Jason_WI wrote:Dont use 3in1 oil at all. It will evaproate and leave a glue like substance behind and the motor will be stuck again. I had to go through 150 engines because of the 3in1 glue. Lots of time wasted when you have to completly break down a 4 stroke engine and clean in denatured alcohol to remove the glue then re-assemble again. Most times I had to make new gaskets which I cut by hand on the larger engines.

I use 2 cycle engine oil to lube all of my engines big and small. Never had an issue with it at all so far after 2 years of storage they are all free yet.

Also do not place the engine back in the package with any fuel left behind. It will stain the printed cardboard insert and really de-value your investment. Also any added oil will seep out the front of the crankshaft area and leak out staining your cardboard insert. A stained cardboard insert can subtract $100 on the value of a rare engine instantly.

You should have just used heat to free it up if you wanted to turn it.

Restoring and cleaning engines is the best part of the hobby. Can't believe you are going to outsource that! I get board and I buy engines just to fix them up for something to do.

Money I got..Time I dont Jason!!...If I were to heat this engine up I would probably melt the plastic housing knowing me!! What I saying is I don't trust myself...When I don't trust myself with something, I give the task at hand to people who know what there doing and sleep good at night, I'm a little poorer the next morning but at least I got a good night sleep.
Lew
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Post  Cribbs74 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:55 pm

Lew,

I find a heat gun works best. However like you mentioned there is a risk of melting the plastic. You could always cover the carb body with a rag to protect it. Just a thought.
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Post  Jason_WI on Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:02 pm

Monokote heat gun works the best and there is no risk to melting anything with that. I heat gun yes you could melt a metal backplate with a good one but not with the monokote heat gun.

Jason
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Post  ZACATTACK on Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:11 pm

I have one of those too Jason, the trimming iron,the regular iron...I have a little RC shop in the basement,I wreck stuff all the time.....My Dumbass put a $4000 Jet in the tarmac before winter!! Im not wrecking my engine collection!! Lots of guys in here, including yourself, that would be more then happy to do my dirty work, make a couple bucks with work that I dont trust myself with. If I get another new engine in, NIB wont turn...I'm leaving that way!!

Lew


Last edited by ZACATTACK on Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:52 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Post  Cribbs74 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:12 pm

Jason_WI wrote:Monokote heat gun works the best and there is no risk to melting anything with that. I heat gun yes you could melt a metal backplate with a good one but not with the monokote heat gun.

Jason

I should have been more specific.... Yeah the monocote one not the one you use on heatshrink for cables.
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