Thimble Drome Champion

Thanks Dave, any help is welcome. I have found some things, even new tires, rims.

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Crank:

I found Gary Arnold's site in Michigan very helpful in finding parts and info on my Cox Thimble Drome Champion race car that I got as a newspaper sales promotion circa late 40's.

I restored the car only to the extent of the cast aluminum parts keeping the paint and decals with the patina of wear. Very often thats a good idea. Trying to make something "perfect" is a daunting and never ending task.

SD

Crank:

Found Gary Arnold's web site, there 'tis:

TLC Enterprise - Thimble Drome Champion

SD

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Mudhen wrote:The powered Champion came in three power sizes: .15 Champion, .19 Lightning Bug, .09 Doodle Bug.
Both the .15 and the .19 have piston rings. The .09 was lapped.
Both the .15 and the .09 have the same cylinder head. The .19 ‘s head was noticeably larger.
The head on your engine is small. So, if it has rings, it’s a .15. If there are no rings, it an .09.
Mud

Edit: This is a .19 Lightning Bug. Notice the head is much larger than what you've pictured.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thimble-Drome-Champion-Gas-Powered-Tether-Race-Car-/190813823435?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item2c6d63e1cb

Thanks for this great info,I printed and saved it. Now if only I could find some parts.

Crank:

Specifically, what parts do you need? Cox Champion cars really aren't that rare.

SD

I could use a pinion gear and needle valve for the Cameron engine.

Crank:

Such things turn up on E-bay from time to time.

You might wind up buying an entire parts car.

SD

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I got the paint stripped and sanded the body with 400 wet, the castings are rough boy but no cracks.
The body work is going to be something like prime, fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand. I'll have to be more careful what I buy next time

Almost ready for color, for the larger flaws I used PC-7 epoxy, it feathered nice with a wet sand and when primed disappeared.
Then I got to the glazing putty, that stuff would not fill the dimples in a fat ladies butt, could not feather an edge made a big mess and 10 times more work to fix.
The edges of the castings where the two halves meet are very rough, I filed, filled, sanded these to make them nice.
Now for a color, I love candy apple red!

Great looking restoration, glad to see the Thimble Drome Cameron engine will be in great hands. Now if you are interested in restoring my 1964 Austin Mini Traveller woody wagon, lets talk.

I got the color on today, the body still has some minor flaws but sometimes you just have to stop and say it is what it is.
Still got to paint the seat black.

That is gorgeous!

I'm enjoying the hell out of this thread Doug.
Great work and photos. Keep us posted on the
assembly.
Thanks!
Bob

Crank:

Looking great so far!

Remember the source that I sent for the decals, tires and cast-aluminum pieces: exhaust header, brake handle, pump and grille.

SD

Looking Good!

Thanks for the nice posts guys, the new Cameron .199 was delivered yesterday, it even had the Ohlsson & Rice plug. Buying from n-rod was a good experience, we agreed on price and it was here in two days.
A nice manual for the .199 Lightning bug was included, the manual has been a big help in learning about these cars. Going to send a copy to Jacob to post.

Crank:

If it will do you any good starting the car I have a 12V electric starter with or without a gel-cell battery the I will DONATE to the cause. You pay only for the shipping from 98387.

The starter is intended for use on model airplane engines but could easily be adapted to belt-start a car.

The starter was given me some years ago and I have no use for it.

Please advise,

SuperDave

Thank you Dave, I appreciate your offer but though I want my cars in running condition I won't run them.
I used auto lacquer for paint and clear that is not fuel proof, I thought about a finish coat of LustreKote clear
just in case I got froggy but not sure if its compatible. Would have to test it first, LustreKote is acrylic lacquer so it should be
compatible. But not likely I'll fuel these cars.

Crank:

I've used Lustrecoat over decals to fuel-proof them with good result. It's important NOT to lay-on Lustrecoat too thick or it will sag.

SD

The body is almost done, I need to place black decals over the hood straps. That black paint can jump at least a foot and get on you and everything else and you don't
know how it got there. Painting the seat was a real PITA, my hand shakes to much to freehand it, I had to mask the body and no kind of tape would work. I wound up using Bob Dively Liquid Mask, I had to paint it on
then knife the paint lines and remove the excess. It worked OK. The trim parts are repro from eBay seller Keller-Kraft, they are not bad. Now for the drivetrain.