Baby Flight Streak build log

pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 7:49 am

I started a few days ago, got the ribs parted from the laser cut stock. Very nice material.

Last night I sanded the edges lightly. I am not convinced the brown needs fully removed, so I am aiming for 50% removal of the darkened wood. I am convinced over-sanding will change the wing shape.

I glued the web spar together, used a straight edge, clamped it to a table on a build mat, and it was crooked so I cut it apart this morning.

Since my next build is a Mimi DLG I have a box of carbon fiber arrow shafts (cheaper than shipping on carbon fiber tube). They happen to fit the wing holes quite well. I think I am going to jig the wing in some manner using them.

No pictures yet.

Phil

**Cribbs74** Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:06 am

I wouldn't worry too much about getting it all off. I never do and my stuff holds together well.

Ron

pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:37 am

I'm hit!

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My mat is getting a hot bath before gluing, it won't lay flat

pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:59 am

I had to sand the spar slots and rib slots to get good fit. Thin CA because I have limited time.

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Phil

pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:17 am

Straight, twist free.

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Phil

**RknRusty** Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:44 am

Wow, Phil, good shooting to get the arrows to fly right through those holes.
As long as there's no loose charcoal on the laser cuts I think you're good to glue.

duke.johnson Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:44 am

You're inspiring me. I still need to build one of these. Nice work! I also need to build one of those arrow shaft wing jigs, I'm to cheap to buy one. do you have a picture of your wing jig?

pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:23 pm

1 1/2 x 1/16 aluminum bent in a Z. I would recommend some heavy piano wire out thin drill rod instead of the arrow. Or us aluminum arrows...I glued one arrow in with an erraent drop of ca.

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pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:33 pm

Fuselage gets epoxy. 30 minute locktite.

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JPvelo Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:39 pm

pkrankow wrote: 1 1/2 x 1/16 aluminum bent in a Z. I would recommend some heavy piano wire out thin drill rod instead of the arrow. Or us aluminum arrows...I glued one arrow in with an erraent drop of ca.

I've started using tite bond on all my builds and I love it. Good working time and suprisingly fast drying plus I haven't glued myself or anything else to an airplane since I started using it! That's a pretty cool jig idea, I need to make one for myself.

Jim

pkrankow Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:42 pm

I've used Elmer's wood glue before, which is pretty similar to titebond. I like it, but I wanted to be done with the wing this morning. Wood glue builds take 2-3 days to build a wing for me, but the effort is worth it.

No burning eyes
no one complains about funny smells
no flesh glued to other stuff

Maybe next build I can leave things in place long enough to let the slower, less noxious glues work well. I just never have a dedicated work space lately.

Phil

pkrankow Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:39 pm

I installed the bell crank platform, and I noticed I flipped a panel so I have a W1 1 in from the the wingtip...The W2 is easy to fix, mark, cut,sand, but I am unsure if the smaller rib in the wingtip will prove anything one way or another. It is near what has become the inboard tip. I think I will ignore it. DAMMIT!

**RknRusty** Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:47 pm

Yeah, one of those inevitable workarounds that always seem to happen.

pkrankow Fri Aug 30, 2013 6:42 am

Yesterday I was flying the Pink Zinger and lawn darted. Can't even call it a figure 9 since it was out of a wing over and looked more like a 1 or an I. I sank it in to the wings in the moist dirt!

Airframe is fine however the plastic intake body on the TeeDee and the motor mount are not. I am planning to cut open the wing because I KNOW I gave elevator input and the lines were not loose. The only change was the nose wheel wire was a thinner music wire instead of the soft wire I had on initially, so there was a little less engine offset, but still generous offset.

Last night I made up the bell crank for the baby flight streak using some 1/16 aluminum tube around the wires and some heat shrink. I hope it performs as advertised, it seems to move nicely already. I'll get a drop of spray on the pivots before I close the wing up so it stays nice and free. (I have a can of Sailkote.)

Phil

**Cribbs74** Fri Aug 30, 2013 9:19 am

Phil,

Trying hard to picture what happened with your plane, sorry it happened though.

pkrankow Fri Aug 30, 2013 9:31 am

Cribbs74 wrote:Phil,

Trying hard to picture what happened with your plane, sorry it happened though.

I'll post a pic soon.

Just got back with drain tile for between my neighbor's house and my house, he has a machine and maybe we can make his basement stay above water when it rains. There is a shared lot with this drainage that is collapsed. My flying field is going to be mud for a while, at least I stand to fly on the top of the hill where we aren't working.

Phil

pkrankow Fri Aug 30, 2013 9:41 am

How do I get the engine apart?

[solved]Baby Flight Streak build log Img_2019

Also I grabbed calipers and measures my .051 intake. .160 inch. Is this suitable? What size do I want to run? The .051 is going onto the baby flight streak.

Phil

**Cribbs74** Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:05 am

Once you washed the outside just break it down. Looks to be not too bad.

pkrankow Tue Sep 03, 2013 3:41 pm

I need to cut the leads out of the pink and brown plane. The soldered connections are making big loops and both leads hang on the same rib at the same time...I think it is getting Power Pro, soon as I figure how to loop them in (I'll think it through soon, gonna test on an open wing first so I don't enlarge this hole any)

I made progress on the 'Streak. Closed the wing up over the bell crank.

This weekend the stack of 8 inch culvert shown with the pink and brown Zinger got buried.

Phil

**Cribbs74** Tue Sep 03, 2013 3:55 pm

Phil,

Just crimp them with sleeves or wire wrap them. Once that is done slide a piece of shrink wrap over them and shrink it. They prob won't snag after that.

Solder makes the wire brittle and could lead to failure.

pkrankow Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:16 pm

I don't have extra crimps, but I have eyelets and Spectra.

Phil

pkrankow Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:26 pm

Tomorrow it should look like an airframe. I don't want "stinky glue" complaints tonight even though epoxy is the glue of choice for this, with cotton fiber filler.

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Phil

**RknRusty** Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:15 pm

pkrankow wrote:How do I get the engine apart?

Also I grabbed calipers and measures my .051 intake. .160 inch. Is this suitable? What size do I want to run? The .051 is going onto the baby flight streak.

Phil

That's awfully large. .140 is the widely accepted standard. After that they get hard to deal with and run racing style. Here's a quote from Paul Gibeault:

Boring out a TD venturi

Post Paulgibeault on 12/26/2011, 4:29 pm
Gentlemen,

First off, boring out the venturi only really works well when the engine rpm is expected to go over 20,000.
Assuming your prop/ fuel/ engine combo will do that then you with definately see then benefit of using a pressurized fuel system. Going up to .140" I.D. is the standard number. The late Joe Klauses K/K pressurised venturi's went as high as .150". They work well in the 22-24,000 rpm band. Of course I wanted to know the limit & went up to .165" ID. That venturi lost noticeable rpm compared to the .150 venturi. So I learned that bigger is not always better. IF one cuts the prop down to a silly small diameter & raise the engine rpm up to 26,000, then the .165 can show a small gain. BUT such a prop is useless on a plane & also causes the engine to die a very early death w/ piston failure etc.
And another thing. Joe Klause decribed enlarging the venturi using a tapered reamer, keeping things very nice & smooth. Just drilling out a bigger hole with a common drill CAN in some cases cause a loss of rpm.
If anybody is interested, I have a supply of TD pressure venturi's for sale ($10 each + post) or can ream a new one to your 'magic number' if you wish...

I usually gauge them by what size bit will fit through it. Will the butt end of a 5/32" drill bit won't through it, but a 9/64 will then you're in the right range. I bore the stockers with a 9/64 and polish with fine sandpaper.

pkrankow Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:33 pm

Sounds like I need to order a couple venturies.

**RknRusty** Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:36 pm

pkrankow wrote:Sounds like I need to order a couple venturies.

Get some of those tiny girls hair rubber bands at the dollar store and strap a few layers of panty hose material over the venturi. It'll make it hard to prime, but will decrease the air flow. Stretch the rubber bands before you use them. They're all pretty colors too.
Use sexy black hose if you've got 'em. lol!

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